Atjaunināt sīkdatņu piekrišanu

E-grāmata: Apparel Manufacturing Technology

3.75/5 (8 ratings by Goodreads)
(PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India), (PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India), (PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India)
  • Formāts: 502 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 05-Aug-2016
  • Izdevniecība: CRC Press Inc
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781498763769
Citas grāmatas par šo tēmu:
  • Formāts - PDF+DRM
  • Cena: 57,60 €*
  • * ši ir gala cena, t.i., netiek piemērotas nekādas papildus atlaides
  • Ielikt grozā
  • Pievienot vēlmju sarakstam
  • Šī e-grāmata paredzēta tikai personīgai lietošanai. E-grāmatas nav iespējams atgriezt un nauda par iegādātajām e-grāmatām netiek atmaksāta.
Apparel Manufacturing TechnologyPalielināt
  • Formāts: 502 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 05-Aug-2016
  • Izdevniecība: CRC Press Inc
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781498763769
Citas grāmatas par šo tēmu:

DRM restrictions

  • Kopēšana (kopēt/ievietot):

    nav atļauts

  • Drukāšana:

    nav atļauts

  • Lietošana:

    Digitālo tiesību pārvaldība (Digital Rights Management (DRM))
    Izdevējs ir piegādājis šo grāmatu šifrētā veidā, kas nozīmē, ka jums ir jāinstalē bezmaksas programmatūra, lai to atbloķētu un lasītu. Lai lasītu šo e-grāmatu, jums ir jāizveido Adobe ID. Vairāk informācijas šeit. E-grāmatu var lasīt un lejupielādēt līdz 6 ierīcēm (vienam lietotājam ar vienu un to pašu Adobe ID).

    Nepieciešamā programmatūra
    Lai lasītu šo e-grāmatu mobilajā ierīcē (tālrunī vai planšetdatorā), jums būs jāinstalē šī bezmaksas lietotne: PocketBook Reader (iOS / Android)

    Lai lejupielādētu un lasītu šo e-grāmatu datorā vai Mac datorā, jums ir nepieciešamid Adobe Digital Editions (šī ir bezmaksas lietotne, kas īpaši izstrādāta e-grāmatām. Tā nav tas pats, kas Adobe Reader, kas, iespējams, jau ir jūsu datorā.)

    Jūs nevarat lasīt šo e-grāmatu, izmantojot Amazon Kindle.

This book aims to provide a broad conceptual and theoretical perspective of apparel manufacturing process starting from raw material selection to packaging and dispatch of goods. Further, engineering practices followed in an apparel industry for production planning and control, line balancing, implementation of industrial engineering concepts in apparel manufacturing, merchandising activities and garment costing have been included, and they will serve as a foundation for future apparel professionals. The book addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process with considered quality aspects. This book also covers the production planning process and production balancing activities.

It addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process and quality aspects to be considered in each process. Garment engineering questions each process/operation of the total work content and can reduce the work content and increase profitability by using innovative methods of construction and technology. This book covers the production planning process, production balancing activities, and application of industrial engineering concepts in garment engineering. Further, the merchandising activities and garment costing procedures will deal with some practical examples. This book is primarily intended for textile technology and fashion technology students in universities and colleges, researchers, industrialists and academicians, as well as professionals in the apparel and textile industry.
Preface xxv
Authors xxix
1 Introduction to Apparel Industry 1(30)
1.1 Structure of Textiles and Clothing Industry
1(2)
1.1.1 Clothing
2(1)
1.1.2 Textiles
3(1)
1.2 Various Departments in the Garment Industry
3(5)
1.2.1 Merchandising
4(1)
1.2.2 Sampling Department
4(1)
1.2.3 Fabric Sourcing
4(1)
1.2.4 Purchasing Department
5(1)
1.2.5 Fabric Inspection Department
5(1)
1.2.6 Accessory Stores Department
5(1)
1.2.7 Production Planning Department
5(1)
1.2.8 Laboratory Department
5(1)
1.2.9 Machine Maintenance
5(1)
1.2.10 CAD Section
6(1)
1.2.11 Cutting Section
6(1)
1.2.12 Production Department
6(1)
1.2.13 Industrial Engineering Section
7(1)
1.2.14 Embroidery Department
7(1)
1.2.15 Fabric Washing Section
7(1)
1.2.16 Quality Assurance Department
7(1)
1.2.17 Finishing Department
7(1)
1.3 Classification of Garments
8(3)
1.3.1 Harmonised System
9(2)
1.3.1.1 Classification and Categories of Apparel under Harmonised System
9(2)
1.4 Raw Material for Garment Manufacturing
11(7)
1.4.1 Fibre Selection in Garment Manufacturing
11(1)
1.4.2 Yarns
11(2)
1.4.2.1 Yarn Specifications
11(2)
1.4.3 Fabric
13(5)
1.4.3.1 Woven Fabrics
14(2)
1.4.3.2 Knitted Fabrics
16(2)
1.4.3.3 Matted Fabrics (Felted and Nonwoven)
18(1)
1.4.3.4 Leather and Furs
18(1)
1.5 Fabric Characteristics for Apparel Manufacturing
18(6)
1.5.1 Style Characteristics
19(1)
1.5.2 Hand Characteristics
19(2)
1.5.3 Visual Characteristics
21(1)
1.5.4 Utility Characteristics
21(1)
1.5.4.1 Transmission Characteristics
21(1)
1.5.4.2 Transformation Characteristics
21(1)
1.5.5 Durability Characteristics
22(1)
1.5.6 Garment Production Working Characteristics
23(1)
1.6 Fabric Inspection Systems
24(4)
1.6.1 Four-Point System
24(2)
1.6.2 Ten-Point System
26(1)
1.6.3 Graniteville "78" System
27(1)
1.6.4 Dallas System
27(1)
References
28(3)
2 Pattern Making 31(36)
2.1 Body Measurement
31(7)
2.1.1 Body Anatomy
31(4)
2.1.1.1 Eight Head Theory
31(2)
2.1.1.2 Ten Head Theory
33(2)
2.1.2 Body Measurement
35(3)
2.1.2.1 Taking Body Measurement
36(2)
2.2 Patterns
38(26)
2.2.1 Types of Paper Pattern
39(1)
2.2.2 Pattern Making Tools
40(5)
2.2.2.1 Measuring Devices
41(1)
2.2.2.2 Drafting Devices
42(1)
2.2.2.3 Marking Devices
43(1)
2.2.2.4 Cutting Devices
43(1)
2.2.2.5 Sewing Devices
44(1)
2.2.2.6 Finishing or Pressing Devices
44(1)
2.2.2.7 Miscellaneous or General Tools
44(1)
2.2.3 Principles of Pattern Drafting
45(1)
2.2.3.1 Advantages of Paper Pattern
46(1)
2.2.4 Commercial Pattern
46(1)
2.2.4.1 Merits
47(1)
2.2.4.2 Demerits
47(1)
2.2.5 Steps in Pattern Drafting
47(1)
2.2.5.1 Basic Front Bodice and Back Bodice Pattern (Figure 2.5)
47(1)
2.2.5.2 Basic Sleeve Pattern (Figure 2.6)
48(1)
2.2.6 Pattern Draping
48(5)
2.2.6.1 Draping an Adhesive Paper Dress Form
49(3)
2.2.6.2 Draping on the Stand
52(1)
2.2.7 Flat Pattern Technique
53(10)
2.2.7.1 Types of Darts
54(1)
2.2.7.2 Locating the Dart Point
54(2)
2.2.7.3 Pivot Method
56(3)
2.2.7.4 Slash and Spread Method
59(3)
2.2.7.5 Measurement Method
62(1)
2.2.8 Pattern Grading
63(4)
2.2.8.1 Types of Grading Systems
63(1)
References
64(3)
3 Fabric Spreading and Cutting 67(32)
3.1 Cutting Department
67(1)
3.2 Marker
67(8)
3.2.1 Marker Parameters
68(2)
3.2.1.1 Relation to the Relative Symmetry of Garment
68(1)
3.2.1.2 Mode
69(1)
3.2.2 Types of Markers
70(1)
3.2.2.1 Sectioned Markers
70(1)
3.2.2.2 Continuous Markers
70(1)
3.2.3 Marker Planning
70(2)
3.2.3.1 Requirements of Marker Planning
71(1)
3.2.4 Construction of Markers
72(1)
3.2.5 Methods of Marker Planning
73(2)
3.2.5.1 Manual Marker Planning
73(1)
3.2.5.2 Computerised Marker Planning
74(1)
3.2.6 Marker Efficiency
75(1)
3.3 Spreading
75(9)
3.3.1 Types of Spreads
75(1)
3.3.2 Objectives of the Spreading Process
76(2)
3.3.2.1 Shade Sorting of Fabric Rolls
76(1)
3.3.2.2 Ply Direction and Lay Stability
76(1)
3.3.2.3 Alignment of Plies
77(1)
3.3.2.4 Correct Ply Tension
77(1)
3.3.2.5 Elimination of Fabric Faults
77(1)
3.3.2.6 Elimination of Static Electricity, Fusion and Tight Selvedge in Cutting
78(1)
3.3.2.7 Fabric Control during Spreading
78(1)
3.3.2.8 Avoidance of Distortion in the Spread
78(1)
3.3.3 Method of Spreading
78(4)
3.3.3.1 Spreading Table
79(1)
3.3.3.2 Solid Bar
80(1)
3.3.3.3 Stationary Rack
80(1)
3.3.3.4 Drop-In Unwinder
80(1)
3.3.3.5 Rolling Rack
80(1)
3.3.3.6 Turntable
80(1)
3.3.3.7 Semi-Automatic Rolling Rack with Electric Eye and Catchers
80(1)
3.3.3.8 Automatic Rolling Rack
81(1)
3.3.3.9 Automatic Turntable
82(1)
3.3.3.10 Tubular Knit Fabric Spreader
82(1)
3.3.4 Nature of Fabric Packages
82(1)
3.3.5 Advancements in Spreading
83(1)
3.3.6 Evaluation of Spreading Cost
84(1)
3.3.6.1 Spreading Labour Cost
84(1)
3.3.6.2 Spreading and Deadheading
84(1)
3.3.6.3 The Cost of Ends and Damages
84(1)
3.4 Cutting
84(13)
3.4.1 Objectives of Cutting
85(1)
3.4.1.1 Accuracy of Cut
85(1)
3.4.1.2 Clean Edges
85(1)
3.4.1.3 Support of the Lay
85(1)
3.4.1.4 Consistent Cutting
85(1)
3.4.2 Preparation for Cutting
85(1)
3.4.2.1 Moving the Spreading Machine Aside
85(1)
3.4.2.2 Facilitating Shrinkage of the Lay
86(1)
3.4.2.3 Rechecking the Marker
86(1)
3.4.2.4 Fastening the Marker to the Spread
86(1)
3.4.3 Methods of Cutting
86(9)
3.4.3.1 Fully Manual Methods
86(1)
3.4.3.2 Manually Operated Power Knives
87(4)
3.4.3.3 Computerised Methods of Cutting
91(3)
3.4.3.4 Auxiliary Devices
94(1)
3.4.4 Preparation of Cut Work for Sewing Room
95(4)
3.4.4.1 Bundling
95(1)
3.4.4.2 Shade Separation
95(2)
3.4.4.3 Indication of the Face Side of Fabrics
97(1)
3.4.4.4 Work Ticketing
97(1)
References
97(2)
4 Sewing Machine 99(24)
4.1 Classification of Sewing Machine
99(1)
4.1.1 Sewing Machine Classification Based on Its Bed Type
100(1)
4.1.2 Sewing Machine Classification Based on Machine Type
100(1)
4.2 Sewing Machine Parts and Functions
100(1)
4.3 Single Needle Lock Stitch Machine
100(8)
4.4 Double Needle Lock Stitch Machine
108(1)
4.5 Special Sewing Machines
108(4)
4.5.1 Overlock Machine
108(1)
4.5.2 Bar Tacking Machine
109(1)
4.5.3 Buttonhole Sewing Machines
110(1)
4.5.3.1 Buttonhole Machine Types
110(1)
4.5.4 Button Sewing Machine
111(1)
4.5.5 Feed of Arm Sewing Machine
111(1)
4.5.6 Blind Stitch Machine
112(1)
4.6 Stitch-Forming Mechanisms
112(5)
4.6.1 Thread Control Devices
113(1)
4.6.2 Sewing Needles
114(1)
4.6.3 Lower Stitch-Forming Devices
114(1)
4.6.3.1 Loopers
114(1)
4.6.3.2 Stitch Tongues or Chaining Plates
114(1)
4.6.3.3 Loop Spreader
115(1)
4.6.3.4 Thread Finger
115(1)
4.6.4 Throat Plate
115(1)
4.6.5 Stitch Formation Sequence in Lock Stitch Machine
115(2)
4.7 Embroidery Machine
117(3)
4.7.1 Free-Motion Machine Embroidery
118(1)
4.7.2 Computerised Machine Embroidery
118(5)
4.7.2.1 Design Files
119(1)
4.7.2.2 Editing Designs
119(1)
4.7.2.3 Loading the Design
119(1)
4.7.2.4 Stabilising the Fabric
119(1)
4.7.2.5 Embroidering the Design
119(1)
References
120(3)
5 Sewing Thread and Needles 123(22)
5.1 Sewing Thread
123(12)
5.1.1 Factors Influencing the Aesthetic Characteristics of Sewing Thread
123(1)
5.1.2 Factors Affecting Performance of Sewing Thread
123(1)
5.1.3 Basic Requirement of Sewing Thread
124(1)
5.1.3.1 Sewability
124(1)
5.1.3.2 Thread Performance in Seam
124(1)
5.1.4 Properties of Sewing Thread
124(1)
5.1.5 Classification of Sewing Thread
125(4)
5.1.5.1 Classification Based on Substrate
126(1)
5.1.5.2 Classification Based on Thread Construction
126(3)
5.1.5.3 Classification Based on Thread Finish
129(1)
5.1.6 Twist of the Sewing Thread
129(1)
5.1.7 Sewing Thread Size
130(1)
5.1.7.1 Ticket Numbering
131(1)
5.1.8 Sewing Thread Consumption
131(2)
5.1.8.1 Measurement of Actual Sewing Thread Consumption
132(1)
5.1.8.2 Determination of Thread Consumption Using Thread Consumption Ratios
132(1)
5.1.9 Applications of Sewing Threads
133(1)
5.1.10 Sewing Thread Packages
133(2)
5.2 Sewing Machine Needles
135(7)
5.2.1 Parts of a Needle
135(2)
5.2.2 Special Needles
137(1)
5.2.3 Identification of Sewing Needle
137(4)
5.2.3.1 System
137(1)
5.2.3.2 Point
137(3)
5.2.3.3 Needle Size
140(1)
5.2.4 General Purpose Needles
141(1)
5.2.5 Specialty Needles
141(1)
5.2.6 Surface Finishing of Sewing Needles
141(1)
References
142(3)
6 Seams and Stitches 145(22)
6.1 Seams
145(5)
6.1.1 Classification of Seam
145(5)
6.1.1.1 Class 1: Superimposed Seam (SS)
146(1)
6.1.1.2 Class 2: Lapped Seam (LS)
146(1)
6.1.1.3 Class 3: Bound Seam (BS)
147(1)
6.1.1.4 Class 4: Flat Seam (FS)
147(1)
6.1.1.5 Class 5: Decorative/Ornamental Stitching
148(1)
6.1.1.6 Class 6: Edge Finishing/Neatening
148(1)
6.1.1.7 Class 7: Edge Stitched Seam
148(1)
6.1.1.8 Class 8: Enclosed Seam
149(1)
6.1.2 Numerical Expressions of Seams
150(1)
6.1.3 Seam Quality
150(1)
6.2 Stitches
150(6)
6.2.1 Class 100: Chain Stitches
151(1)
6.2.2 Class 200: Hand Stitches
151(1)
6.2.3 Class 300: Lock Stitches
152(2)
6.2.4 Class 400: Multi-Thread Chain Stitches
154(1)
6.2.5 Class 500: Over-Edge Chain Stitches
155(1)
6.2.6 Class 600: Covering Chain Stitches
156(1)
6.3 Seam Quality Issues
156(8)
6.3.1 Seam Puckering
160(7)
6.3.1.1 Seam Puckering Due to Structural Jamming
160(1)
6.3.1.2 Tension Puckering
161(1)
6.3.1.3 Feed Puckering
162(1)
6.3.1.4 Shrinkage Puckering
163(1)
References
164(3)
7 Sewing Machine Feed Mechanisms and Attachments 167(20)
7.1 Elements of Feeding Mechanism
167(2)
7.1.1 Presser Foot
167(1)
7.1.2 Feed Dog
168(1)
7.1.3 Throat Plate
169(1)
7.2 Types of Feed Mechanism
169(7)
7.2.1 Manual Feed
169(1)
7.2.2 Drop Feed
169(1)
7.2.2.1 Problems in Drop Feed
170(1)
7.2.3 Differential Feed
170(1)
7.2.4 Top Feed Mechanism
171(1)
7.2.4.1 Vibrating Presser Foot
171(1)
7.2.4.2 Alternating Presser Foot
172(1)
7.2.5 Needle Feed
172(1)
7.2.5.1 Upper Pivot Needle Feed
173(1)
7.2.5.2 Central Pivot Needle Feed
173(1)
7.2.5.3 Parallel Drive Needle Feed
173(1)
7.2.6 Compound Feed
173(1)
7.2.7 Unison Feed
174(1)
7.2.8 Puller Feed
175(1)
7.2.9 Wheel Feed
175(1)
7.2.10 Cup Feed
176(1)
7.3 Special Attachments to Sewing Machines
176(9)
7.3.1 Position Attachments
177(4)
7.3.1.1 Hemmers
177(1)
7.3.1.2 Ruffler
177(1)
7.3.1.3 Binder
178(1)
7.3.1.4 Tucker
178(1)
7.3.1.5 Gathering Foot
178(3)
7.3.2 Guide Attachments
181(3)
7.3.2.1 Zipper Foot
181(1)
7.3.2.2 Cording Foot
182(1)
7.3.2.3 Circular Attachment
182(1)
7.3.2.4 Button Sewing Foot
183(1)
7.3.2.5 Buttonhole Stabiliser Plate
183(1)
7.3.2.6 Buttonhole Foot
184(1)
7.3.3 Preparation and Finishing Attachments
184(1)
References
185(2)
8 Fusing, Pressing and Packaging 187(34)
8.1 Fusing
187(9)
8.1.1 Purpose of Interlining
187(1)
8.1.2 Requirements of Fusing
188(1)
8.1.3 Fusing Process
188(2)
8.1.3.1 Base Fabric
188(1)
8.1.3.2 Resins
189(1)
8.1.3.3 Coating Systems
189(1)
8.1.4 Fusing Machinery and Equipment
190(5)
8.1.4.1 Specialised Fusing Presses
191(3)
8.1.4.2 Hand Iron
194(1)
8.1.4.3 Steam Press
195(1)
8.1.5 Methods of Fusing
195(1)
8.1.6 Control of Fusing Quality
196(1)
8.2 Pressing
196(14)
8.2.1 Purpose of Pressing
196(1)
8.2.2 Classification of Pressing
196(1)
8.2.3 Categories of Pressing
197(1)
8.2.4 Basic Components of Pressing
197(1)
8.2.5 Classification of Pressing Equipment
198(1)
8.2.6 Types of Pressing Equipment
198(12)
8.2.6.1 Hand Irons
198(3)
8.2.6.2 Steam Presses
201(2)
8.2.6.3 Steam Finisher
203(1)
8.2.6.4 Tunnel Finisher
204(3)
8.2.6.5 Press Cladding
207(1)
8.2.6.6 Creasing Machines
207(1)
8.2.6.7 Pleating
208(1)
8.2.6.8 Block or Die Pressing
208(2)
8.2.6.9 Permanent Press
210(1)
8.3 Garment Packaging
210(8)
8.3.1 Types of Package Forms
211(1)
8.3.2 Types of Packing Materials
211(1)
8.3.3 Quality Specifications for Packing Materials
211(1)
8.3.4 Package Design
212(1)
8.3.4.1 Functional Requirements
212(1)
8.3.4.2 Sales Requirements
213(1)
8.3.5 Types of Garment Packing in Finishing Section
213(3)
8.3.5.1 Stand-Up Pack
213(2)
8.3.5.2 Flat Pack
215(1)
8.3.5.3 Hanger Pack
215(1)
8.3.5.4 Deadman Pack
216(1)
8.3.6 Types of Carton Packing
216(2)
8.3.7 Requirements of Packing
218(1)
References
218(3)
9 Fullness and Yokes 221(22)
9.1 Gathers
221(3)
9.1.1 Gathering by Hand
221(1)
9.1.2 Gathering by Machine
221(1)
9.1.3 Gathering Using Elastic
222(1)
9.1.4 Methods of Controlling Gathers
223(1)
9.1.4.1 Process of Gathering
224(1)
9.2 Pleats
224(4)
9.2.1 Knife Pleat
224(1)
9.2.2 Box Pleats
224(1)
9.2.3 Inverted Pleat
225(1)
9.2.4 Accordion Pleat
226(1)
9.2.5 Sunray Pleat
226(1)
9.2.6 Kick Pleat
227(1)
9.2.7 Cartridge Pleat
227(1)
9.2.8 Pinch Pleat
227(1)
9.3 Flounces
228(2)
9.4 Tucks
230(1)
9.5 Darts
231(2)
9.5.1 Straight Dart
232(1)
9.5.2 Curved Outward Dart
232(1)
9.5.3 Curved Inward Dart
232(1)
9.5.4 Neckline Dart
233(1)
9.5.5 Double Pointed Dart
233(1)
9.5.6 Dart in Interfacing
233(1)
9.6 Yoke
233(7)
9.6.1 Selection of Yoke Design
234(2)
9.6.1.1 Design of the Fabric
234(1)
9.6.1.2 Design of the Garment
235(1)
9.6.1.3 Purpose and Use of the Garment
235(1)
9.6.1.4 Sex and Age of the Wearer
235(1)
9.6.1.5 Figure and Personality of the Wearer
235(1)
9.6.2 Creating Variety in Yoke Design
236(2)
9.6.2.1 Variety in Shape and Size
236(1)
9.6.2.2 Variety in Material and Grain
236(1)
9.6.2.3 Designing Seam Line of Yoke
237(1)
9.6.2.4 Decoration within the Yoke
237(1)
9.6.2.5 Introducing the Yoke at Different Positions
237(1)
9.6.2.6 Designing Yokes Which Release Fullness in Various Forms
238(1)
9.6.3 Preparing Patterns of Different Types of Yokes
238(1)
9.6.3.1 Yoke without Fullness
238(1)
9.6.3.2 Yoke with Fullness
238(1)
9.6.4 Attaching Yokes
238(2)
References
240(3)
10 Collars 243(8)
10.1 Introduction
243(7)
10.1.1 Construction of Collars
243(3)
10.1.2 Types of Collars
246(1)
10.1.3 Selection of Interfacing for Collars
246(3)
10.1.4 Basic Standards for Collars
249(1)
References
250(1)
11 Plackets and Pockets 251(18)
11.1 Plackets
251(6)
11.1.1 Continuous Lap Sleeve Placket
251(2)
11.1.1.1 Construction of Continuous Bound Plackets
251(2)
11.1.2 Two-Piece Placket
253(2)
11.1.3 Miter Placket
255(1)
11.1.3.1 Construction of Miter Placket
255(1)
11.1.4 Zipper Placket
256(1)
11.1.4.1 Construction of Zipper Placket
256(1)
11.1.5 Faced Placket Open
257(1)
11.2 Pockets
257(10)
11.2.1 Selection of Pocket Design
258(1)
11.2.2 Patch Pocket
259(4)
11.2.2.1 Construction of Patch Pocket
260(3)
11.2.3 In-Seam Pocket
263(1)
11.2.4 Slash Pocket
263(1)
11.2.5 Flapped Pockets
264(1)
11.2.6 Besom Pockets
264(1)
11.2.7 Bellows Pockets
265(1)
11.2.8 Ticket Pockets
265(1)
11.2.9 Variety in Shape, Size, Location and Number
266(1)
11.2.10 Variety in Material and Grain
267(1)
11.2.11 Variety in Decorative Details and Trimmings Used on the Pocket
267(1)
References
267(2)
12 Sleeves and Cuffs 269(10)
12.1 Sleeves
269(4)
12.1.1 Classification of Sleeves
269(3)
12.1.1.1 Straight Sleeve
270(1)
12.1.1.2 Shaped Sleeves
271(1)
12.1.2 Procedure for Construction of Sleeves
272(1)
12.2 Cuffs
273(4)
12.2.1 Shirt Cuffs
273(1)
12.2.2 Barrel Shirt Cuffs
274(1)
12.2.2.1 Single Button Barrel Cuff
274(1)
12.2.2.2 Double Button Barrel Cuff
274(1)
12.2.3 French Shirt Cuffs
275(4)
12.2.3.1 Kissing French Cuffs
275(1)
12.2.3.2 Undone French Cuffs
275(1)
12.2.3.3 Barrel French Cuffs
276(1)
References
277(2)
13 Apparel Accessories and Supporting Materials 279(20)
13.1 Closures
279(10)
13.1.1 Zippers
279(6)
13.1.1.1 Objectives of a Zipper
279(1)
13.1.1.2 Components of a Zipper
280(1)
13.1.1.3 Types of Zippers Based on Construction
280(1)
13.1.1.4 Types of Zippers Based on Material
281(2)
13.1.1.5 Manufacturing Process of Zippers
283(2)
13.1.1.6 Zipper Size
285(1)
13.1.1.7 Applications of Zippers
285(1)
13.1.2 Buttons
285(3)
13.1.2.1 Types of Buttons
285(2)
13.1.2.2 Button Sizes
287(1)
13.1.2.3 Buttonholes
288(1)
13.1.3 Hook and Loop Fasteners
288(1)
13.1.4 Eyelets and Laces
288(1)
13.2 Supporting Materials
289(8)
13.2.1 Linings
289(3)
13.2.1.1 Fibre Types and Properties
290(1)
13.2.1.2 Function and Consumer Appeal
290(1)
13.2.1.3 Selection of Linings
291(1)
13.2.1.4 Making Up and Testing of Linings
291(1)
13.2.1.5 Lining Component Patterns
291(1)
13.2.2 Interlinings
292(2)
13.2.2.1 Functions of Interlining
292(1)
13.2.2.2 Uses of Interlinings
292(1)
13.2.2.3 Types of Interlinings
293(1)
13.2.3 Difference between Lining and Interlining
294(1)
13.2.4 Interfacing
295(1)
13.2.4.1 Purposes of Interfacing
295(1)
13.2.4.2 Types of Interfacing
296(1)
13.2.5 Shoulder Pads
296(1)
13.2.6 Waddings
297(1)
References
297(2)
14 Production Planning and Control 299(24)
14.1 Production Planning
299(1)
14.1.1 Volume of Production
299(1)
14.1.2 Nature of Production Process
300(1)
14.1.3 Nature of Operations
300(1)
14.2 Production Planning System
300(1)
14.3 Production Control
301(1)
14.3.1 Elements of the Production Control
301(1)
14.4 Production Planning and Control
302(10)
14.4.1 Stages of Production Planning and Control
302(2)
14.4.1.1 Planning Stage
303(1)
14.4.1.2 Action Stage
303(1)
14.4.1.3 Control Stage
303(1)
14.4.2 Levels of Production Planning and Control
304(1)
14.4.2.1 Strategic Planning
304(1)
14.4.2.2 Tactical Planning
304(1)
14.4.2.3 Operational Planning
304(1)
14.4.3 Functions of Production Planning and Control
304(3)
14.4.3.1 Production Planning Functions
305(1)
14.4.3.2 Production Control Functions
306(1)
14.4.4 Requirements of Effective Production Planning and Control
307(1)
14.4.5 Production Activity Control
308(1)
14.4.5.1 Objectives of Production Activity Control
308(1)
14.4.6 Operations Planning and Scheduling
308(1)
14.4.6.1 Loading
309(1)
14.4.6.2 Sequencing
309(1)
14.4.6.3 Detailed Scheduling
309(1)
14.4.6.4 Expediting
309(1)
14.4.6.5 Input-Output Control
309(1)
14.4.7 Scheduling Techniques
309(1)
14.4.7.1 Forward Scheduling
309(1)
14.4.7.2 Backward Scheduling
310(1)
14.4.8 Sequencing
310(2)
14.4.8.1 Evaluating Sequencing Rules
311(1)
14.5 Production Planning and Control in Garment Industry
312(4)
14.5.1 Production Strategies in Garment Industry
312(1)
14.5.1.1 Flexible Manufacturing Strategy
312(1)
14.5.1.2 Value-Added Manufacturing Strategy
312(1)
14.5.1.3 Mass Customisation
313(1)
14.5.2 Roles of PPC Department in Garment Industry
313(1)
14.5.2.1 Task Scheduling
313(1)
14.5.2.2 Material Resource Planning
313(1)
14.5.2.3 Loading Production
313(1)
14.5.2.4 Process Selection and Planning
313(1)
14.5.2.5 Facility Location
313(1)
14.5.2.6 Estimation Quantity and Costs of Production
314(1)
14.5.2.7 Capacity Planning
314(1)
14.5.2.8 Line Planning
314(1)
14.5.2.9 Follow-Up and Execution
314(1)
14.5.3 Standard Allowed Minute
314(2)
14.5.3.1 Calculation of SAM of a Garment
314(1)
14.5.3.2 Functions of SAM Value in Production Planning
315(1)
14.6 Performance Measurement Parameters in Production Planning
316(3)
14.6.1 Cut to Ship Ratio
316(1)
14.6.2 Labour Cost per Minute
316(1)
14.6.3 Plan Performance Index
317(1)
14.6.4 On-Time Delivery
317(1)
14.6.5 Capacity Utilisation
317(1)
14.6.6 Lead Time
318(1)
14.6.7 Overtime %
318(1)
14.6.8 On Time in Full
318(1)
14.6.9 Absenteeism
318(1)
14.6.10 Attrition Rate
319(1)
14.7 Production Planning Software for Apparel Industry
319(1)
14.7.1 Evolve by Fast React
319(1)
14.7.2 Plan-IT by Gemserp
319(1)
14.7.3 PPC Module by APPS
320(1)
14.7.4 MAE by Parellax
320(1)
14.7.5 STAGE Production Planning Management
320(1)
14.7.6 Pro-Plan by Methods Apparel
320(1)
References
320(3)
15 Fabric Utilisation in Cutting Room 323(22)
15.1 Cut Order Planning
323(8)
15.1.1 Cost Involved in Cut Order Planning
325(2)
15.1.1.1 Types of Fabric Losses
326(1)
15.1.2 Fabric Saving Using a Cut Order Plan
327(4)
15.1.2.1 Marker Length
328(2)
15.1.2.2 End Loss
330(1)
15.1.2.3 Plies
330(1)
15.2 Roll Allocation
331(4)
15.2.1 Manual Roll Allocation Method
332(1)
15.2.2 Automated Allocation Method
333(1)
15.2.3 Important Consideration in Roll Allocation
333(2)
15.2.3.1 Fabric Cost
334(1)
15.2.3.2 Roll Variation
334(1)
15.2.3.3 Fabric Defects
334(1)
15.2.3.4 Fabric Shade, Shrinkage and Width Variation
334(1)
15.2.3.5 Spreading Costs
334(1)
15.2.4 Characteristics of Roll Allocation
335(1)
15.3 Fabric Grouping
335(4)
15.3.1 Fabric Grouping by Shrinkage
335(1)
15.3.2 Fabric Grouping by Width
335(1)
15.3.3 Fabric Grouping by Shade
336(1)
15.3.4 Manual Grouping Approach
336(2)
15.3.4.1 Problems in Manual Grouping Approach
337(1)
15.3.5 Automated Grouping
338(1)
15.3.5.1 Benefits in Automated Grouping Method
338(1)
15.3.6 Characteristics of a Good Fabric Grouping
339(1)
15.4 Performance Measurement Parameters in Cutting Section
339(4)
15.4.1 Material Productivity
339(1)
15.4.2 Marker Efficiency
340(1)
15.4.3 Marked Consumption
340(1)
15.4.4 Achieved Consumption
340(1)
15.4.5 Fabric Utilisation
341(1)
15.4.6 Cut Order Plan
342(1)
References
343(2)
16 Garment Production Systems 345(18)
16.1 Make through System
345(2)
16.1.1 Group System: Section or Process System
346(1)
16.1.1.1 Advantages
346(1)
16.1.1.2 Disadvantages
347(1)
16.2 Whole Garment Production System
347(1)
16.2.1 Advantages
347(1)
16.2.2 Disadvantages
348(1)
16.3 Assembly Line System
348(7)
16.3.1 Progressive Bundle System
348(3)
16.3.1.1 Straight Line or 'Synchro' Production System
351(1)
16.3.1.2 PBS Synchro Straight Line System
351(1)
16.3.2 Unit Production Systems (UPS)
351(4)
16.4 Modular Production System
355(5)
16.4.1 Work Flow in a Modular System
357(2)
16.4.2 Features of a Modular Production System
359(1)
16.4.3 Advantages of a Modular Garment Production System
359(1)
16.4.4 Disadvantages of a Modular Garments Production System
359(1)
16.5 Evaluation of Garment Production Systems
360(1)
References
360(3)
17 Flow Process Grid 363(26)
17.1 Flow Process Grids and Charts
363(1)
17.1.1 Differences between a Flow Process Grid and a Flow Process Chart
364(1)
17.2 Construction of Flow Process Grids
364(4)
17.3 Operation Breakdown
368(1)
17.3.1 Benefit of Breakdown
368(1)
17.3.2 Calculation of Operation Breakdown
369(1)
17.3.3 Operation Breakdown and SAM of the Full Sleeve Formal Men's Shirt
369(1)
17.3.4 Operation Breakdown and SMV of a Trouser
369(1)
17.3.5 Operation Breakdown and SMVs of a Jacket
369(1)
17.4 Control Forms in Production Department
369(16)
17.4.1 Sales Tally Form
377(1)
17.4.2 Purchase Order
377(1)
17.4.3 Receiving Memo
378(1)
17.4.4 Cutting Order
378(1)
17.4.5 The Cutting Production Control Chart
379(1)
17.4.6 Cutting Projection Tally
379(1)
17.4.7 Recut or Swatch Ticket
380(1)
17.4.8 Bundle Ticket
380(1)
17.4.9 Move Ticket
381(1)
17.4.10 Sewing Department Project Tally
382(1)
17.4.11 Pressing Projection Tally
382(1)
17.4.12 Packing and Shipping Projection
382(1)
17.4.13 Shipping Memo
383(1)
17.4.14 Invoice or Bill
383(1)
17.4.15 Production Control Ledger Cards
383(1)
17.4.16 Equipment Maintenance Record
384(1)
17.4.17 Equipment Inventory Record
385(1)
17.4.18 Receiving Quality Control Sheet
385(1)
17.4.19 Laboratory Quality Control Sheet
385(1)
17.4.20 Rejection Memo
385(1)
References
385(4)
18 Plant Loading and Capacity Planning 389(30)
18.1 Setting Up of a Garment Industry
389(3)
18.1.1 Selecting Appropriate Product Category
389(1)
18.1.2 Estimation of Production Requirement
389(2)
18.1.2.1 Plant Loading
389(1)
18.1.2.2 Capacity Study
390(1)
18.1.3 Number of Machines
391(1)
18.1.4 Type of Machines
391(1)
18.1.5 Raw Materials Requirement
392(1)
18.1.6 Factory Space Requirement
392(1)
18.1.7 Manpower Requirement
392(1)
18.1.8 Project Cost
392(1)
18.1.9 Internal Process Flow
392(1)
18.1.10 Supplier Listing
392(1)
18.2 Plant Layout
392(7)
18.2.1 Principles of Plant Layout
393(1)
18.2.1.1 Principle of Minimum Travel
393(1)
18.2.1.2 Principle of Sequence
393(1)
18.2.1.3 Principle of Usage
393(1)
18.2.1.4 Principle of Compactness
393(1)
18.2.1.5 Principle of Safety and Satisfaction
393(1)
18.2.1.6 Principle of Flexibility
394(1)
18.2.2 Influencing Factors of Plant Layout
394(1)
18.2.2.1 Materials
394(1)
18.2.2.2 Worker
394(1)
18.2.2.3 Machinery
394(1)
18.2.2.4 Product
395(1)
18.2.2.5 Management Policies
395(1)
18.2.3 Types of Layout
395(4)
18.2.3.1 Process Layout
395(1)
18.2.3.2 Product Layout
396(1)
18.2.3.3 Fixed Position Layout
397(1)
18.2.3.4 Cellular Manufacturing (CM) Layout
397(1)
18.2.3.5 Combined Layout
398(1)
18.2.3.6 Service Facility Layout
398(1)
18.2.3.7 Classification of Layout Based on Flow of Material
398(1)
18.3 Line Balancing
399(8)
18.3.1 Need for Balancing
399(1)
18.3.2 Goals for Balancing
399(1)
18.3.3 Production Line Balancing
400(1)
18.3.4 Points to Be Noted When Balancing
400(1)
18.3.5 Micro-Steps in Line Balancing
400(1)
18.3.5.1 Calculation of Labour Requirements
400(1)
18.3.5.2 Sectionalisation
401(1)
18.3.5.3 Operation Breakdown
401(1)
18.3.5.4 Theoretical Operation Balance
401(1)
18.3.5.5 Skills Inventory
401(1)
18.3.5.6 Initial Balance
401(1)
18.3.5.7 Balance Control
401(1)
18.3.6 Macro-Steps in Line Balancing
401(3)
18.3.6.1 Setting Up a Line
402(2)
18.3.6.2 Running a Line
404(1)
18.3.7 Important Aspects in Line Balancing
404(3)
18.3.7.1 Determination of Cycle Time (CT)
404(1)
18.3.7.2 Determination of the Ideal Number of Workers Required in the Line
405(1)
18.3.7.3 Balancing Efficiency
405(2)
18.3.8 Line Balance Matrix
407(1)
18.4 Determination of Machinery Requirements for a New Factory
407(1)
18.4.1 Selection of Product Type
407(1)
18.4.2 Daily Production Target
408(1)
18.4.3 Estimation of Line Efficiency
408(1)
18.4.4 Preparation of Operation Bulletin
408(1)
18.4.5 Calculation of Number of Lines
408(1)
18.4.6 Preparation of a Matrix of Machine Mix
408(1)
18.5 Estimation of Production Capacity of a Garment Factory
408(2)
18.5.1 Calculation of Factory Capacity (in Hours)
409(1)
18.5.2 Calculation of Product SAM
409(1)
18.5.3 Factory Average Efficiency
410(1)
18.5.4 Calculation of Production Capacity (in Pieces)
410(1)
18.6 Sewing Room Capacity
410(1)
18.7 Determination of Operator Efficiency
411(2)
18.7.1 On-Standard Operator Efficiency
412(1)
18.8 Determination of Efficiency of a Production Line
413(1)
18.9 Line Loading Plan for Garment Production
413(3)
References
416(3)
19 Garment Merchandising 419(20)
19.1 Types of Merchandising
419(1)
19.2 Evolution of Merchandising in Garment Unit
419(1)
19.3 Merchandiser
420(4)
19.3.1 Qualities of Merchandiser
421(1)
19.3.2 Function of Merchandisers
421(1)
19.3.3 Types of Garment Merchandising
422(3)
19.3.3.1 Fashion Merchandising
422(1)
19.3.3.2 Apparel Export Merchandising
423(1)
19.4 Merchandising Workflow
424(1)
19.5 Merchandising Process Flow
425(1)
19.6 General Merchandising Process
425(7)
19.6.1 Order Enquiry
425(2)
19.6.2 Forwarding Tech Pack
427(1)
19.6.3 Product Development
427(1)
19.6.4 Approval of Development Samples
427(1)
19.6.5 Costing
427(1)
19.6.6 Order Placement
427(1)
19.6.7 Order of Fabric and Trims
428(1)
19.6.8 Lab Dip
428(1)
19.6.9 Fit Sample
428(1)
19.6.10 Preproduction Samples
428(1)
19.6.11 Size Set Samples
428(1)
19.6.12 Preproduction Meeting (PPM)
429(1)
19.6.13 Hand-Over the Production File to Production Planning and Control
429(1)
19.6.14 Ensuring the Availability of Fabrics and Trims
430(1)
19.6.15 Inspecting the Surface Ornamentation of the Particular Style
430(1)
19.6.16 Checking the Status of Stitching Materials In-House
430(1)
19.6.17 Checking the Patterns with Master
430(1)
19.6.18 Grading and Final Cross Check of Patterns
430(1)
19.6.19 Spreading and Cutting
431(1)
19.6.20 Garment Wash
431(1)
19.6.21 Fabric Printing/Embroidery
431(1)
19.6.22 Loading the Order in the Production Line
431(1)
19.6.23 Finishing
431(1)
19.6.24 Dispatch
432(1)
19.7 Documents to be Maintained by the Merchandiser
432(1)
19.7.1 Production Order (PO)
432(1)
19.7.2 Bill of Materials (BOM)
432(1)
19.7.3 Specification Sheet/Tech Pack
432(1)
19.7.4 Order Status Report
432(1)
19.8 Apparel Retail Merchandiser
433(2)
19.8.1 Functions of a Retail Merchandiser
433(1)
19.8.2 Tasks of a Retail Merchandiser
434(1)
19.8.2.1 Analysing the Local Customers
434(1)
19.8.2.2 Selection of a Fashion Image
434(1)
19.8.2.3 Buying the Fashion Merchandise
434(1)
19.8.2.4 Receiving and Stocking the Merchandise
434(1)
19.8.2.5 Display
435(1)
19.8.2.6 Sales Promotion
435(1)
19.8.2.7 Sales Evaluation
435(1)
19.9 Performance Measurement Tools for Merchandising
435(2)
19.9.1 Enquiry Response Time
435(1)
19.9.2 Sample Acceptance Percentage
435(1)
19.9.3 Order Conversion Rate
436(1)
19.9.4 On-Time Sample Delivery Percentage
436(1)
19.9.5 Sample Rejection Percentage
436(1)
19.9.6 On-Time File Handover to Production Department
436(1)
19.9.7 Number of Orders Handled per Unit Time
437(1)
19.9.8 Value Handled per Unit Time
437(1)
References
437(2)
20 Garment Costing 439(16)
20.1 Purpose of Ascertaining Cost
439(1)
20.2 Manufacturing Costs
440(1)
20.3 Methods of Costing
440(2)
20.3.1 Absorption Costing
441(1)
20.3.2 Direct Costing
442(1)
20.4 Stages of Costing
442(2)
20.4.1 Preliminary Costing
442(1)
20.4.2 Cost Estimating
443(1)
20.4.3 Materials Costing
443(1)
20.4.4 Labour Costing
443(1)
20.4.5 Recosting
444(1)
20.4.6 Actual Costs
444(1)
20.5 Components of Cost of Garment
444(6)
20.5.1 Fabric
445(1)
20.5.1.1 Influencing Parameters for Fabric Cost
445(1)
20.5.1.2 Cost Calculations of Fabric in Garment
446(1)
20.5.2 Trims
446(2)
20.5.2.1 Thread
447(1)
20.5.2.2 Labels
447(1)
20.5.2.3 Zippers
447(1)
20.5.2.4 Buttons
447(1)
20.5.2.5 Polybags
447(1)
20.5.2.6 Cartons
447(1)
20.5.2.7 Hand Tags
448(1)
20.5.2.8 Shanks and Rivets
448(1)
20.5.2.9 Hangers
448(1)
20.5.2.10 Tapes and Velcro
448(1)
20.5.2.11 Other Charges
448(1)
20.5.3 Cut-Make-Trim (CMT) Cost
448(1)
20.5.4 Value Added Processes
449(1)
20.6 Costing for Men's Shirts (Long Sleeve)
450(1)
20.7 Costing for Men's Basic T Shirts
451(2)
References
453(2)
Index 455
Dr. T. Karthik is an MTech and PhD qualified textile technologist. Currently, he is working as an assistant professor (Senior Grade) in the Department of Textile Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, India. Dr. Karthik has 6 years of teaching experience and 5 years of industrial experience and handling various textile subjects particularly in the area of process and quality control in spinning, garment manufacture, nonwoven technology and technical textiles for the past 5 years. He has published more than 60 articles in reputed international and national journals. He has published five international books and contributed five book chapters. Additionally, Dr. Karthik received the Young Engineer Award from Institution of Engineers India in Textile Engineering Division in 2015. He is a member of professional bodies such as Textile Association of India (TAI) and Member of Institution of Engineers (MIE).



Dr. Ganesan is an MTech and PhD qualified textile technologist. Currently, he is working as an assistant professor (Senior Grade) in the Department of Textile Technology, PSG College of Technology, Coimbatore, India. He has 3 years of industrial experience in the apparel industry. Dr. Ganesan has handled various garment and chemical processing related subjects particularly in the area of apparel manufacutirng technology, process and quality control in apparel manufacturing, and apparel marketing and merchandising for the past 8 years. The author has published approximately 43 articles in reputed international and national journals and has the H-Idex of 3 (Google Scholar). He has contributed one book chapter in Springer. Dr. Ganesan is the member in professional bodies such as MIE. He has received two government research projects worth about 50 lakh rupees. Additionally, he has recieved the Young Talent Search award from SDC, Mumbai.



Mr. Gopalakrishnan is an M.Tech (Textile Chemistry) and MSc (Costume Design & Fashion) qualified Textile Technologist. He has 7 years of teaching experience and 7 years of industrial experience. The author has published more than 65 articles in reputed international and national journals and presented more than 20 research papers in conferences. He has published two books. For the past seven years, he had handled apparel subjects such as pattern making, garment construction, apparel merchandisng, and costing for the UG students.
Biežāk uzdotie jautājumi par e-grāmatām Biežāk uzdotie jautājumi par e-grāmatām
Permanent link: https://www.kriso.lv/db/97814987637692e.html
Keywords: