About the Author |
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xii | |
Preface |
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xiii | |
Acknowledgments |
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xv | |
Part One: Introduction To Draping |
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1 | (32) |
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1 Draping Principles and Skills |
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3 | (18) |
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Draping Principles and Skills |
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4 | (1) |
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5 | (3) |
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Identifying the Design Details |
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6 | (1) |
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7 | (1) |
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8 | (1) |
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Hand, Appearance, and Texture |
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8 | (1) |
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Selecting Fabric Quality and Weight |
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8 | (1) |
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8 | (1) |
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8 | (1) |
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9 | (6) |
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9 | (1) |
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10 | (1) |
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11 | (1) |
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11 | (3) |
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14 | (1) |
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Understanding Grainlines and Crossgrains |
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15 | (1) |
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Lengthwise Grain (Straight of Grain) |
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15 | (1) |
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15 | (1) |
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15 | (1) |
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16 | (1) |
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16 | (1) |
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16 | (1) |
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Principles of Balanced Patterns |
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17 | (1) |
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Maintaining Balance (Plumb Theory) |
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17 | (1) |
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18 | (1) |
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19 | (2) |
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19 | (1) |
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Uniform Notching Practices |
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20 | (1) |
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2 The Dress Form, Tools, and Terminology |
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21 | (12) |
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23 | (5) |
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24 | (1) |
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25 | (1) |
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Draping Fabric on the Dress Form |
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26 | (1) |
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Attaching the Bustline Tape |
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27 | (1) |
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27 | (1) |
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Draping Tools and Supplies |
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28 | (2) |
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Industry Guide to Sewing Order |
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30 | (5) |
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Step-by-Step Construction Method |
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30 | (3) |
Part Two: Basic Foundation Patterns |
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33 | (88) |
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35 | (40) |
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Theory of the Basic Bodice Slopers |
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36 | (1) |
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36 | (1) |
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The Basic Shoulder/Waist Dart Bodice |
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37 | (17) |
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Basic Front Shoulder/Waistline Bodice: Preparing the Fabric |
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38 | (1) |
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Basic Back Shoulder/Waistline Bodice: Preparing the Fabric |
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39 | (1) |
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Basic Front Shoulder/Waistline Bodice: Draping Steps |
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40 | (3) |
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Basic Back Shoulder/Waistline Bodice: Draping Steps |
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43 | (3) |
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Trueing the Basic Shoulder/Waistline Bodice Drape |
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46 | (6) |
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Pinning and Checking the Final Proof of Bodice Drape |
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52 | (1) |
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Sewing a Final Muslin Proof |
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53 | (1) |
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The Basic Single Waistline Dart Sloper |
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54 | (7) |
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Basic Single Waistline Dart: Preparing the Fabric |
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55 | (1) |
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Basic Single Waistline Dart: Draping Steps |
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56 | (2) |
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Trueing the Single Waistline Dart Sloper |
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58 | (3) |
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Converting the One-Dart Sloper into a Two-Dart Sloper and Checking Balance |
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61 | (1) |
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The Side Bust and Waist Darts Sloper |
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62 | (6) |
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Basic Side Bust and Waist Dart: Preparing the Fabric |
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63 | (1) |
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Basic Side Bust and Waist Dart: Draping Steps |
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64 | (4) |
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68 | (7) |
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Custom Bodice Front and Back: Single Waistline Sloper |
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68 | (7) |
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75 | (14) |
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76 | (1) |
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77 | (1) |
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Basic Skirt with One Dart |
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77 | (1) |
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77 | (1) |
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78 | (2) |
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78 | (1) |
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78 | (2) |
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The Basic Fitted Skirt: Draping Steps |
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80 | (3) |
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Basic Back Skirt: Draping Steps |
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81 | (2) |
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Trueing the Basic Skirt Drape |
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83 | (3) |
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Pinning and Checking the Final Proof of the Skirt Drape |
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86 | (1) |
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87 | (2) |
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Evaluating the Hang of the Skirt and Waistline Shape |
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87 | (1) |
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Checking the Skirt Pattern Balance |
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87 | (1) |
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87 | (2) |
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89 | (18) |
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90 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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92 | (3) |
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Basic Sleeve Measurement Chart |
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94 | (1) |
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Basic Sleeve: Preparing the Sleeve Draft |
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95 | (4) |
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Walking the Sleeve into the Armhole and |
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Placing Sleeve Cap Notches |
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99 | (2) |
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Pinning and Checking the Sleeve Drape |
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101 | (1) |
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Fitting Sleeves and Armholes |
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102 | (2) |
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Evaluating the Armhole Fit |
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102 | (1) |
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Armhole Size: Sleeve Is Too Tight or Too Loose |
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102 | (1) |
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Checking Sleeve for Twisting or Pulling |
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103 | (1) |
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Placement of the Sleeve Cap Notches |
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103 | (1) |
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Adjusting a Sleeve for More Arm Movement |
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104 | (2) |
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Adjusting the Sleeve Cap Ease |
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106 | (1) |
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6 Torso/Blouse Sloper and Basic Shift Silhouettes |
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107 | (14) |
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Torso/Blouse Sloper and Basic Shift Silhouettes |
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108 | (1) |
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Semi-Fitted Shift Dress Silhouette |
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108 | (1) |
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Blouse and Dress Silhouette Variations |
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109 | (1) |
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109 | (1) |
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Fitted Sheath Dress Silhouette |
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109 | (1) |
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110 | (13) |
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110 | (2) |
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Torso/Blouse Sloper Front: Draping Steps |
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112 | (2) |
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Torso/Blouse Sloper Back: Draping Steps |
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114 | (2) |
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Torso/Blouse Sloper Front and Back: Trueing |
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116 | (1) |
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Sewing a Final Muslin Proof |
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117 | (1) |
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Evaluating the Garment Design Fit |
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118 | (3) |
Part Three: Intermediate Techniques |
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121 | (170) |
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7 Bodice and Blouse Designs |
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123 | (30) |
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Bodice and Blouse Designs |
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124 | (1) |
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124 | (1) |
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125 | (5) |
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125 | (2) |
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Waist Midriff Blouse: Midriff Draping Steps |
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127 | (1) |
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Waist Midriff Blouse: Bodice Draping Steps |
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128 | (2) |
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Bodice with Bustline Shirring |
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130 | (4) |
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130 | (2) |
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Bodice with Bustline Shirring: Draping Steps |
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132 | (1) |
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Bodice with Bustline Shirring: Trueing Steps |
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133 | (1) |
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Blouse with Shoulder Pleats/Gathers |
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134 | (4) |
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134 | (2) |
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Blouse with Shoulder Pleats/Gathers: Draping Steps |
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136 | (1) |
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Blouse with Shoulder Pleats/Gathers: Trueing Up |
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137 | (1) |
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138 | (4) |
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138 | (2) |
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Asymmetric Wrap Blouse: Right Side Draping Steps |
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140 | (1) |
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Asymmetric Wrap Blouse: Left Side Draping Steps |
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141 | (1) |
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142 | (4) |
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142 | (1) |
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Bias Halter: Draping Steps |
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143 | (3) |
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146 | (7) |
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146 | (1) |
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Preparing the Fabric: Upper Bodice and Lower Bodice |
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147 | (1) |
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Empire Styled Blouse: Upper Bodice Draping Steps |
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148 | (2) |
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Empire Styled Blouse: Lower Bodice Draping Steps |
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150 | (3) |
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8 Designing with Circular Flounces and Ruffles |
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153 | (12) |
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Designing with Circular Flounces and Ruffles |
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154 | (1) |
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155 | (3) |
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155 | (2) |
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Circular Flounce Design: Draping Steps |
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157 | (1) |
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158 | (4) |
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158 | (1) |
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Gathered Flounce: Draping Steps |
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159 | (1) |
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160 | (2) |
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162 | (3) |
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162 | (1) |
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163 | (2) |
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165 | (32) |
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166 | (1) |
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167 | (9) |
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167 | (3) |
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Basic Princess Bodice: Center Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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170 | (1) |
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Basic Princess Bodice: Side Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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171 | (2) |
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Basic Princess Bodice: Center Back Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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173 | (1) |
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Basic Princess Bodice: Side Back Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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174 | (2) |
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176 | (8) |
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176 | (3) |
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Torso/Blouse Princess: Center Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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179 | (1) |
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Torso/Blouse Princess: Side Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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180 | (2) |
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Torso/Blouse Princess: Center Back Princess. Panel: Draping Steps |
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182 | (1) |
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Torso/Blouse Princess: Side Back Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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183 | (1) |
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184 | (6) |
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184 | (2) |
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Armhole Princess Dress: Center Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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186 | (1) |
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Armhole Princess Dress: Side Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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187 | (1) |
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Armhole Princess Dress: Center Back Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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188 | (1) |
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Armhole Princess Dress: Side Back Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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189 | (1) |
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Torso Princess with Dropped Shoulder |
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190 | (7) |
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190 | (1) |
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Torso Princess with Dropped Shoulder: Preparing the Fabric |
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191 | (1) |
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Torso Princess with Dropped Shoulder: Center Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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192 | (1) |
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Torso Princess with Dropped Shoulder: Side Front Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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193 | (1) |
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Torso Princess with Dropped Shoulder: Center Back Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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194 | (1) |
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Torso Princess with Dropped Shoulder: Side Back Princess Panel: Draping Steps |
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195 | (1) |
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196 | (1) |
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197 | (24) |
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Dartless Blouse and Dartless Shirt Silhouettes |
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198 | (2) |
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Dartless Blouse Sloper/Silhouette |
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199 | (1) |
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Men or Women Dartless Shirt Sloper/Silhouette |
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199 | (1) |
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200 | (6) |
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200 | (2) |
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Dartless Blouse: Front Blouse Draping Steps |
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202 | (3) |
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205 | (1) |
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206 | (6) |
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Preparing the Shirt Silhouette Pattern |
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206 | (1) |
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Dartless Shirt or Dress: Developing a Shirt Sleeve |
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207 | (5) |
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Classic Shirt with One-Piece Yoke |
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212 | (5) |
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Preparing the Bodice Fabric |
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212 | (1) |
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Classic Shirt with One-Piece Yoke: Preparing the Yoke Fabric |
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213 | (1) |
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Classic Shirt with One-Piece Yoke: Draping Steps |
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214 | (3) |
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217 | (1) |
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Preparing Man's Shirt Pattern |
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217 | (1) |
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Various Front-Yoke Designs |
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218 | (3) |
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Front Bodice Yoke Variations: Preparing |
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218 | (1) |
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Front Bodice Yoke Variations: Preparing the Fabric |
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219 | (1) |
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219 | (2) |
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11 Kimono and Raglan Designs |
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221 | (16) |
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Kimono and Raglan Designs |
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222 | (1) |
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223 | (7) |
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Preparing the Arm for the Dress Form |
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223 | (1) |
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Kimono Shirt: Preparing the Fabric |
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224 | (2) |
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Kimono Shirt: Draping Steps |
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226 | (3) |
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Variation to Achieve Extra Lift |
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229 | (1) |
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230 | (7) |
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230 | (1) |
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Raglan Sleeve: Preparing the Sleeve Fabric |
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231 | (1) |
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Raglan Sleeve: Preparing the Bodice/Shirt Fabric |
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232 | (1) |
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Raglan Sleeve: Bodice/Shirt Draping Steps |
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233 | (2) |
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Raglan Sleeve: Sleeve Draping Steps |
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235 | (2) |
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237 | (54) |
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238 | (1) |
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239 | (4) |
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Flared Skirt: Preparing the Fabric |
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239 | (2) |
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Flared Skirt: Draping Steps |
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241 | (2) |
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243 | (9) |
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243 | (3) |
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Six-Gore Trumpet Skirt: Draping Steps |
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246 | (6) |
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Six-Gore Skirt with Godets |
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252 | (1) |
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252 | (1) |
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Six-Gore Skirt with Kick Pleats |
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253 | (1) |
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Styled Gore Skirt with Kick Pleat Variation |
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253 | (1) |
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253 | (1) |
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Eight-Gore Skirt with Inverted Box Pleats |
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254 | (1) |
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254 | (1) |
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255 | (4) |
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255 | (2) |
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Dirndl Skirt: Draping Steps |
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257 | (2) |
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Dirndl Skirt with Ruffles (Tiered Skirt) |
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259 | (2) |
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259 | (1) |
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260 | (1) |
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261 | (5) |
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261 | (2) |
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Circular Skirt: Draping Steps |
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263 | (3) |
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266 | (7) |
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Bias Circular Skirt: Preparing the Fabric |
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267 | (1) |
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Bias Circular Front Skirt: Draping Steps |
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268 | (2) |
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Bias Circular Skirt: Draping Steps |
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270 | (3) |
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273 | (10) |
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Styled Hip Yoke with Circular Skirt |
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273 | (1) |
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Styled Hip Yoke with Circular Skirt: Preparing Yoke Fabric |
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274 | (1) |
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Styled Hip Yoke with Circular Skirt: Draping Yoke Steps |
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275 | (1) |
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Styled Hip Yoke with Circular Skirt: Preparing the Skirt Fabric |
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276 | (1) |
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Styled Hip Yoke with Circular Skirt: Skirt Draping Steps |
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277 | (2) |
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Styled Hip Yoke with Gathered Skirt |
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279 | (1) |
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279 | (2) |
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Styled Hip Yoke with Gathered Skirt: Skirt Draping Steps |
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281 | (2) |
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283 | (4) |
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283 | (2) |
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Asymmetric Wrap Skirt: Right Front Draping Steps |
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285 | (1) |
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Asymmetric Skirt: Left Front Draping Steps |
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286 | (1) |
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287 | (6) |
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287 | (1) |
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288 | (3) |
Part Four: Advanced Techniques |
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291 | (196) |
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293 | (18) |
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294 | (1) |
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Pant Terms and Measurements |
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295 | (2) |
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Basic Two-Dart Pants Draft |
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297 | (8) |
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Checking the Pant Balance |
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304 | (1) |
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305 | (2) |
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Evaluating the Front and Back Crotch to Waist Distance (Crotch Depth) |
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305 | (1) |
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306 | (1) |
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Evaluating the Center Back Waist Fit |
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306 | (1) |
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Evaluating the Center Front Crotch Fit |
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306 | (1) |
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Examining the Back Crotch Area |
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306 | (1) |
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307 | (4) |
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307 | (2) |
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Pants Styling: Leg Shapes |
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309 | (2) |
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311 | (38) |
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312 | (1) |
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Stretch and Recovery Ratios |
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313 | (1) |
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Determining the Fabric's Stretch Ratio |
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313 | (1) |
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Determining the Fabric's Recovery Ratio |
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313 | (1) |
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Knit Categories by Stretch Ratio |
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313 | (1) |
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314 | (5) |
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Basic Knit Bodice/Dress: Preparing the Fabric |
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315 | (1) |
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Basic Knit Bodice/Dress: Draping Steps |
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316 | (3) |
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319 | (1) |
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Stretch and Recovery Ratios |
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319 | (1) |
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Checking the Pattern Details |
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319 | (1) |
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320 | (2) |
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Basic Knit Sleeve Measurement Chart |
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320 | (2) |
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322 | (1) |
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322 | (1) |
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Basic Knit Shirt: Trueing and Fitting the Pattern |
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322 | (1) |
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323 | (3) |
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323 | (1) |
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323 | (1) |
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Knit Halter: Draping Steps |
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324 | (2) |
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326 | (5) |
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326 | (1) |
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Boat Neck Knit T-Top: Preparing the Fabric |
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327 | (1) |
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Boat Neck Knit T-Top: Draping Steps |
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328 | (3) |
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331 | (7) |
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331 | (1) |
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Asymmetric Wrap Dress: Preparing the Fabric |
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332 | (1) |
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Asymmetric Wrap Dress: Right Side Draping Steps |
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333 | (2) |
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Asymmetric Wrap Dress: Left Side Draping Steps |
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335 | (2) |
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Asymmetric Wrap Dress: Back Draping Steps and Trueing Up |
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337 | (1) |
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338 | (3) |
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338 | (3) |
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341 | (4) |
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341 | (4) |
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345 | (2) |
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345 | (1) |
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Knit Leggings: Sewing Steps |
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346 | (1) |
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347 | (2) |
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347 | (2) |
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15 Collar and Neckline Designs |
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349 | (26) |
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Collar and Neckline Designs |
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350 | (1) |
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351 | (1) |
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Terms for the Collar Draping Process |
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351 | (1) |
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351 | (1) |
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352 | (3) |
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352 | (1) |
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Convertible Collar: Draping Steps |
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353 | (2) |
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355 | (3) |
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355 | (1) |
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Mandarin Collar: Draping Steps |
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356 | (2) |
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358 | (3) |
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358 | (1) |
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Peter Pan Collar: Draping Steps |
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359 | (2) |
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361 | (4) |
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361 | (1) |
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Turtleneck Collar: Preparing the Fabric |
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362 | (1) |
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Turtleneck Collar: Draping Steps |
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363 | (2) |
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365 | (5) |
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365 | (2) |
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Asymmetric Collar: Draping Steps |
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367 | (3) |
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370 | (2) |
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370 | (1) |
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Soft Wave Necklines: Draping Steps |
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371 | (1) |
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372 | (3) |
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372 | (1) |
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Raised Neckline: Draping Steps |
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|
373 | (2) |
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16 Jacket Silhouettes and Collar/Lapel Designs |
|
|
375 | (36) |
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Jacket Silhouettes and Collar/Lapel Designs |
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376 | (1) |
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Spencer Jacket Silhouette |
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|
377 | (5) |
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|
377 | (1) |
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Spencer Jacket Silhouette: Preparing the Fabric |
|
|
378 | (1) |
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Spencer Jacket Silhouette: Draping Steps |
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|
379 | (3) |
|
Developing a One-Piece Jacket Sleeve |
|
|
382 | (3) |
|
|
382 | (3) |
|
Developing a Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve |
|
|
385 | (1) |
|
Jacket Silhouette with Notched Collar |
|
|
386 | (9) |
|
|
386 | (2) |
|
Notched Collar: Preparing the Collar |
|
|
388 | (1) |
|
Jacket Silhouette with Notched Collar: Preparing the Back Fabric and Jacket |
|
|
389 | (1) |
|
Notched Collar: Front Jacket Draping Steps |
|
|
390 | (2) |
|
Notched Collar: Collar Draping Steps |
|
|
392 | (3) |
|
Jacket Silhouette with Shawl Collar |
|
|
395 | (7) |
|
|
395 | (2) |
|
Jacket Silhouette with Shawl Collar: Preparing the Back Fabric and Back Drape |
|
|
397 | (1) |
|
Shawl Collar: Front Jacket Draping Steps |
|
|
398 | (4) |
|
Demi-Princess Jacket with Revere Collar |
|
|
402 | (6) |
|
Preparing the Dress Form and Fabric |
|
|
402 | (2) |
|
Demi-Princess Jacket with Revere Collar: Front Panel Draping Steps |
|
|
404 | (1) |
|
Demi-Princess Jacket with Revere Collar: Revere Collar and Front Panel Draping Steps |
|
|
405 | (1) |
|
Demi-Princess Jacket with Revere Collar: Back Panel Draping Steps |
|
|
406 | (1) |
|
Demi-Princess Jacket with Revere Collar: Underarm/Side Seam Panel Draping Steps |
|
|
407 | (1) |
|
|
408 | (3) |
|
Preparing the Dress Form and Jacket Fabric |
|
|
408 | (1) |
|
Jacket with Easy Fit: Front and Back Jacket Draping Steps |
|
|
409 | (2) |
|
|
411 | (10) |
|
|
412 | (1) |
|
|
412 | (4) |
|
Basic Neckline Cowl: Preparing the Fabric |
|
|
413 | (1) |
|
Basic Neckline Cowl: Draping Steps |
|
|
413 | (3) |
|
|
416 | (2) |
|
|
416 | (1) |
|
Cowl Blouse Designs: Draping Steps |
|
|
417 | (1) |
|
|
418 | (3) |
|
|
418 | (1) |
|
Underarm/Side Seam Cowl: Draping Steps |
|
|
419 | (2) |
|
|
421 | (30) |
|
|
422 | (1) |
|
|
423 | (7) |
|
|
423 | (1) |
|
Empire Silhouette: Preparing the Bodice Fabric |
|
|
424 | (1) |
|
Empire Silhouette: Preparing the Skirt Fabric |
|
|
425 | (1) |
|
Empire Silhouette: Bodice Draping Steps |
|
|
426 | (2) |
|
Empire Silhouette: Skirt Draping Steps |
|
|
428 | (2) |
|
|
430 | (7) |
|
|
430 | (1) |
|
Princess Slip Dress: Preparing the Fabric |
|
|
431 | (2) |
|
Princess Slip Dress Panel: Center Front Panel Draping Steps |
|
|
433 | (1) |
|
Princess Slip Dress Panel: Side Front Panel Draping Steps |
|
|
434 | (1) |
|
Princess Slip Dress Panel: Center Back Draping Steps |
|
|
435 | (1) |
|
Princess Slip Dress Panel: Side Back Draping Steps |
|
|
436 | (1) |
|
Halter Dress with Fluid Drape |
|
|
437 | (5) |
|
|
437 | (1) |
|
Preparing the Neckband Fabric |
|
|
437 | (1) |
|
Halter Dress with Fluid Drape: Preparing the Dress Fabric |
|
|
438 | (1) |
|
Halter Dress with Fluid Drape: Neckband Draping Steps |
|
|
439 | (1) |
|
Halter Dress with Fluid Drape: Front and Back Dress Draping |
|
|
440 | (1) |
|
Halter Dress with Fluid Drape: Trueing Up |
|
|
441 | (1) |
|
Cold Shoulder Dress or Blouse and Bustier |
|
|
442 | (3) |
|
Preparing the Cold Shoulder Pattern |
|
|
443 | (1) |
|
Preparing the Cold Shoulder Bustier Design |
|
|
444 | (1) |
|
|
445 | (6) |
|
|
445 | (1) |
|
Bias-Cut Slip Dress: Preparing the Fabric |
|
|
446 | (1) |
|
Bias-Cut Slip Dress: Draping Steps |
|
|
446 | (5) |
|
|
451 | (36) |
|
|
452 | (1) |
|
|
453 | (7) |
|
|
453 | (1) |
|
"Sculptured" Dress: Preparing the Fabric |
|
|
454 | (1) |
|
"Sculptured" Dress: Front Dress Draping Steps |
|
|
455 | (3) |
|
"Sculptured" Dress: Back Dress Draping Steps |
|
|
458 | (2) |
|
Empire Twist Neckline Dress |
|
|
460 | (4) |
|
Preparing the Dress Form, Collar Band, and Midriff |
|
|
460 | (1) |
|
Empire Twist Neckline Dress: Preparing the Fabric |
|
|
461 | (1) |
|
Empire Twist Neckline Dress: Draping Steps |
|
|
462 | (2) |
|
|
464 | (12) |
|
Bustier Designs: Draping the Bustier Foundation |
|
|
465 | (1) |
|
|
465 | (1) |
|
|
465 | (2) |
|
Bustier Designs: Draping the Bustier Foundation |
|
|
467 | (3) |
|
Bustier Designs: Draping the Outside Garment Design |
|
|
470 | (1) |
|
Bustier Designs: Sewing the Bustier Foundation and Attaching Boning |
|
|
471 | (1) |
|
Bustier Designs: Sewing the Foundation Garment |
|
|
471 | (2) |
|
Bustier Designs: Sewing the Bustier Lining |
|
|
473 | (1) |
|
Bustier Designs: Sewing the Outside Bustier Design and Attaching the Lining |
|
|
474 | (2) |
|
One-Shoulder Bustier Dress |
|
|
476 | (11) |
|
Preparing the Torso-Length Foundation |
|
|
476 | (1) |
|
One-Shoulder Bustler Dress: Preparing the Dress Bodice Fabric |
|
|
477 | (1) |
|
One-Shoulder Bustier Dress: Bodice Draping Steps |
|
|
478 | (2) |
|
One-Shoulder Bustier Dress: Skirt Draping Steps |
|
|
480 | (1) |
|
Glossary of Draping Terms |
|
|
481 | (4) |
|
|
485 | (2) |
Index |
|
487 | |