| Preface |
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vii | |
| Acknowledgements |
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ix | |
| Abbreviations and symbols |
|
x | |
| Introduction: Developments within computer-aided apparel systems |
|
xi | |
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Part 1: Pattern construction |
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1 | (60) |
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Body and garment measurements |
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1 | (7) |
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Taking body measurements manually |
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1 | (3) |
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Computerised body measuring systems |
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4 | (4) |
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8 | (12) |
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9 | (11) |
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Pattern construction techniques |
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20 | (5) |
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The positioning of computer patterns |
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20 | (1) |
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Creating pattern shapes by computer |
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21 | (1) |
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Techniques for constructing pattern shapes |
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21 | (4) |
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Block pattern construction |
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25 | (5) |
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25 | (1) |
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25 | (2) |
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Garment shaping by suppression |
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27 | (1) |
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28 | (1) |
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28 | (1) |
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29 | (1) |
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29 | (1) |
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Construction of primary block patterns |
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30 | (16) |
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Straight skirt block size 12 |
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30 | (3) |
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Fitted bodice block size 12 |
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33 | (5) |
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Straight sleeve block size 12 |
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38 | (2) |
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Basic trouser block size 12 |
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40 | (6) |
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Construction of secondary block patterns |
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46 | (15) |
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Semi-fitted and fitted sleeve blocks |
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46 | (2) |
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48 | (1) |
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Fitted one-piece dress block |
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49 | (3) |
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Straight one-piece dress block |
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52 | (2) |
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Adaptation for a semi-fitted one-piece dress block |
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54 | (1) |
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Dartless block tops and blouses |
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55 | (6) |
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Part 2: Computer pattern grading |
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61 | (36) |
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61 | (1) |
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61 | (1) |
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62 | (1) |
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Methods of recording incremental growth |
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63 | (1) |
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63 | (1) |
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Constructing a grade rule table |
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64 | (2) |
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Variations in positioning the zero point |
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66 | (1) |
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Computer grading techniques |
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66 | (5) |
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Grading primary block patterns |
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71 | (15) |
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Straight skirt grading that retains the same proportion |
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72 | (2) |
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Straight skirt grading that changes the proportion |
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74 | (2) |
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Fitted bodice and semi-fitted sleeve grading that retains the same proportion |
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76 | (3) |
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Fitted bodice and semi-fitted sleeve grading that changes the proportion |
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79 | (2) |
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Trouser grading that retains the same proportion |
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81 | (3) |
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Trouser grading that changes the proportion |
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84 | (2) |
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Grading secondary block patterns |
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86 | (6) |
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One-piece semi-fit dress grading |
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86 | (1) |
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87 | (2) |
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89 | (3) |
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Pattern preparation for digitising |
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92 | (5) |
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Setting up parameter tables |
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92 | (1) |
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Checking the master pattern |
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93 | (2) |
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Building grade rule tables |
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95 | (1) |
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95 | (1) |
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Verifying the pattern grading |
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96 | (1) |
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Part 3: Pattern designing and grading |
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97 | (62) |
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Pattern design procedures |
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97 | (2) |
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99 | (12) |
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Gathered skirt with flounce |
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100 | (1) |
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101 | (1) |
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102 | (3) |
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Construction of circular skirts |
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105 | (4) |
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Skirt style and yoke and pleats |
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109 | (2) |
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111 | (4) |
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111 | (1) |
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112 | (1) |
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113 | (1) |
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114 | (1) |
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115 | (13) |
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117 | (1) |
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118 | (1) |
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Combining darts for gathering |
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119 | (1) |
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Combining darts into gathers at a saddle yoke seam |
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120 | (2) |
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Combining darts to form draped folds |
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122 | (2) |
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Incorporating darts into seams |
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124 | (2) |
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Modification for a sleeveless armhole |
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126 | (1) |
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Modification for a lower `cut-away' round neckline |
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127 | (1) |
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128 | (12) |
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128 | (1) |
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129 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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Methods of constructing collar patterns |
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130 | (1) |
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Adaptation for a flat collar |
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131 | (1) |
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Adaptation for a semi-stand collar |
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132 | (2) |
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Adaptation for a grown-on collar |
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134 | (2) |
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Construction of a high-stand collar |
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136 | (1) |
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Adaptation for a convertible collar |
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137 | (1) |
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Adaptation for a two-piece collar |
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137 | (1) |
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Draft for a high roll collar |
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138 | (1) |
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139 | (1) |
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140 | (10) |
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Relationship of the sleeve to the bodice |
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140 | (1) |
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141 | (1) |
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Blouse sleeve with buttoned cuff |
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142 | (1) |
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142 | (1) |
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143 | (1) |
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Full puff sleeve with frill |
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144 | (1) |
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145 | (2) |
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147 | (3) |
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150 | (9) |
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Checking the stitching line |
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150 | (1) |
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151 | (2) |
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153 | (1) |
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154 | (1) |
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155 | (2) |
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Approval of the sample garment and graded patterns |
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157 | (2) |
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Part 4: Pattern modification for garment size and fit |
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159 | (38) |
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Assessing the figure shape and garment fit |
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159 | (1) |
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Variation in bone structure |
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159 | (7) |
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159 | (3) |
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162 | (2) |
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Length of the upper and lower torso |
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164 | (1) |
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165 | (1) |
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166 | (7) |
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166 | (3) |
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169 | (1) |
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Trouser waist level and seat angle |
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169 | (2) |
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171 | (1) |
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172 | (1) |
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Variation in body size and contour |
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173 | (13) |
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Small adjustment to the waist size |
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173 | (1) |
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Larger adjustment to the waist size |
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174 | (1) |
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174 | (1) |
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Prominences of the upper torso |
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175 | (1) |
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175 | (1) |
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Shoulder blade prominence |
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176 | (1) |
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Prominences of the lower torso |
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177 | (1) |
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Straight skirt modification for a prominent seat |
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177 | (2) |
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Straight skirt modification for a flatter seat |
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179 | (1) |
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Straight skirt modification for hip and thigh prominences |
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180 | (1) |
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Straight skirt modification for stomach prominence |
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180 | (2) |
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Trouser modification for seat prominence |
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182 | (1) |
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Trouser modification for hip and thigh prominences |
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183 | (1) |
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Trouser modification for stomach prominence |
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184 | (2) |
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CAD technology for customisation |
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186 | (11) |
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Computerised made-to-measure systems |
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186 | (1) |
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Configuration and alteration points |
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187 | (3) |
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Made-to-measure garment alteration |
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190 | (1) |
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The made-to-measure CAD interface |
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191 | (1) |
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Marker making using the batch process |
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192 | (1) |
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Advanced 3D pattern design systems |
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193 | (4) |
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Part 5: Computerised marker making systems |
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197 | (4) |
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Marker making and lay planning |
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197 | (4) |
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Fabric widths and material utilisation |
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197 | (1) |
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Markers for striped and check fabrics |
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198 | (1) |
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Placement strategies for fabric type and matching |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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199 | (1) |
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Computerised fabric spreading and cutting |
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200 | (1) |
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Part 6: Product data management systems |
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201 | (4) |
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201 | (4) |
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Organisation of design data |
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202 | (1) |
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203 | (2) |
| References and further reading |
|
205 | (2) |
| Appendix I: Index of technical terms |
|
207 | (2) |
| Appendix II: Miniaturised block patterns |
|
209 | |
Biežāk uzdotie jautājumi par e-grāmatām