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This Open Access book provides a new understanding of the meanings and motivations behind the wearing of beards, moustaches and whiskers, and their associated practices and practitioners. Concerning Beards offers an important new long-term perspective on health and the male body in British society. It argues that the male face has long been an important site for the articulation of bodily health and vigour, as well as masculinity.
Through an exploration of the history of male facial hair in England, Alun Withey underscores its complex meanings, medical implications and socio-cultural significance from the mid-17th to the early 20th century. Herein, he charts the gradual shift in concepts of facial hair and shaving - away from 'formal' medicine and practice - towards new concepts of hygiene and personal grooming.
The ebook editions of this book are available open access under a CC BY-NC-ND 3.0 licence on bloomsburycollections.com. Open access was funded by the Wellcome Trust.
This book is part of the Facialities series, which explores the social, cultural and political significance of the face in human history.
Recenzijas
Alun Withey's fluent and attractive account greatly enlarges the scope and historical grounding of an intriguing subject which is too often treated lightly. It is particularly valuable for the attention it gives to health, class, race, and institutional practices, as well as for its speculations about change over time. * Dr Margaret Pelling, University of Oxford, UK. *
Papildus informācija
An exploration of the medical history of facial hair in England from the mid-17th to the early 20th century.
List of illustrations
ix
List of abbreviations
xi
Acknowledgements
xiii
1 Introduction
1
(16)
PART 1 Contexts
17
(62)
2 Facial hair, health and the body, c. 1650-1750
19
(14)
3 The faces of politeness: Facial hair, masculinity and culture in the long eighteenth century
33
(22)
4 The dominion of the beard, c. 1850-1900
55
(24)
PART 2 The Practice and Practitioners of Facial Hair
79
(82)
5 The medical practices and practitioners of shaving in early-modern Britain
81
(26)
6 Economies of shaving, c. 1650-1750
107
(16)
7 Refining the face: Auto-pogonotomy and self-styling, 1750-1900
123
(18)
8 Hairs and graces: Barbers, hairdressers and shaving, c. 1750-1900
141
(20)
PART 3 Fashion and Class
161
(46)
9 The bearded classes: Facial hair and social status, 1700-1900
163
(24)
10 Cleanse, cut and control: The institutional history of facial hair
187
(20)
PART 4 Commodification, Consumption and Personal Grooming
207
(54)
11 The commodification of shaving, 1650-1850
209
(28)
12 Selling shaving in the age of the beard: The market for shaving products c. 1850-90
237
(24)
Conclusion
261
(6)
Bibliography
267
(42)
Index
309
Alun Withey is a Senior Lecturer in History, University of Exeter, UK, and has recently completed a Wellcome Trust-funded research project Do Beards Matter?: Facial Hair, Health and Hygiene in Britain, 1650-1900'.
