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Dark, A Light, A Bright: The Designs of Dorothy Liebes [Hardback]

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  • Formāts: Hardback, 256 pages, height x width: 254x203 mm, 175 color + 50 b-w illus.
  • Izdošanas datums: 23-May-2023
  • Izdevniecība: Yale University Press
  • ISBN-10: 0300266154
  • ISBN-13: 9780300266153
  • Hardback
  • Cena: 53,27 €
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  • Formāts: Hardback, 256 pages, height x width: 254x203 mm, 175 color + 50 b-w illus.
  • Izdošanas datums: 23-May-2023
  • Izdevniecība: Yale University Press
  • ISBN-10: 0300266154
  • ISBN-13: 9780300266153
The first major publication devoted to weaver and designer Dorothy Liebes, reinstating her as one of the most influential American designers of the twentieth century

The first major publication devoted to weaver and designer Dorothy Liebes, reinstating her as one of the most influential American designers of the twentieth century

At the time of her death, Dorothy Liebes (1897–1972) was called “the greatest modern weaver and the mother of the twentieth-century palette.” As a weaver, she developed a distinctive combination of unusual materials, lavish textures, and brilliant colors that came to be known as the “Liebes Look.” Yet despite her prolific career and recognition during her lifetime, Liebes is today considerably less well known than the men with whom she often collaborated, including Frank Lloyd Wright, Henry Dreyfuss, and Edward Durrell Stone. Her legacy also suffered due to the inability of the black-and-white photography of the period to represent her richly colored and textured works.

Extensively researched and illustrated with full-color, accurate reproductions, this important publication examines Liebes’s widespread impact on twentieth-century design. Essays explore major milestones of her career, including her close collaborations with major interior designers and architects to create custom textiles, the innovative and experimental design studio where she explored new and unusual materials, her use of fabrics to enhance interior lighting, and her collaborations with fashion designers, including Clare Potter and Bonnie Cashin. Ultimately, this book reinstates Liebes at the pinnacle of modern textile design alongside such recognized figures as Anni Albers and Florence Knoll.

Beautifully designed by Estudio Herrera, the book offers the reader a tactile experience. The real cloth cover with silkscreened typography and inset photograph opens to reveal an exposed spine and colored threads that tie together the page signatures and echo Liebes’s own craft.


Published in association with Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
 


Exhibition Schedule:

Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum
(July 7, 2023–February 4, 2024)
 

Recenzijas

[ Dorothy Liebes] has all the elements of a 20th-century design legend, but she isnt a household name yet. This exhibition, and its handsome accompanying monograph, will surely change that.Sarah Archer, T List (newsletter, New York Times T Magazine)

Textile designer Dorothy Liebes emphasized tactility, luminousness, and contrast by combining natural and synthetic fibers in neon shades. . . . [ This] book, with essays by seven experts and a comprehensive biographical timeline, accompanies a Liebes retrospective. . . . Ms. Liebes, although underappreciated now, practically blanketed the world with products while battling corporate misogyny. Factories adapted her handwoven samples for mass-market clothing and furnishings, and she lined mansions and offices with sumptuous one-offs.Eve M. Kahn, New York Times

Enclosed in a dark green, cloth-covered case binding with an electric lime-colored serif font and aqua-teal end papers (a nod to Liebess penchant for analogous colors), a generous selection of lush, full-page close-ups display her weavings in tremendous detail. . . . With thorough and caring scholarship and curation, A Dark, A Light, A Bright feels like a love letter to the path-forging designer.Julie Schneider, Hyperallergic

Well-researched material will be of use to scholars and collectors [ and] will have great appeal for the more general reader. . . . The book is particularly nicely designed. . . . Liebes would have approved. . . . The full-page close-ups of her weaves get as close as a printed page can to a sense of handle.Victoria Bradley, Journal of Design History

Recipient of the 2023 George Wittenborn Memorial Book Award, sponsored by ARLIS  

Selected as the 2025 SAH Exhibition Catalogue Award winner

2023 AIGA cover winner

Foreword 4(2)
Introduction 6(6)
Chapter I Curtain Walls: Dorothy Liebes And The Modern American Interior
12(46)
John Stuart Gordon
Color
34(24)
Chapter II Vibrance And Luminosity: Textiles Designed For Light
58(24)
Alexa Griffith Winton
Chapter III The Idea Factory
82(40)
Susan Brown
Texture
105(17)
Chapter IV Modern Weaving's Global Ambassador
122(14)
Emily M. Orr
Chapter V Modern Fashion's Secret Weapon
136(34)
Leigh Wishner
Glitter
154(16)
Chapter VI The Liebes Look: Better And Better For Less And Less
170(16)
Monica Penick
Chapter VII Fission: Design And Mentorship In The Dorothy Liebes Studio
186(17)
Erica Warren
Materials 203(24)
Chronology 227(9)
Bibliography 236(7)
Acknowledgments 243(3)
Photography Credits 246(2)
Index 248(4)
Biographies 252
Susan Brown is associate curator and acting head of textiles at Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian American Design Museum. Alexa Griffith Winton, manager of content and curriculum at Cooper Hewitt, is a design historian and leading Liebes scholar.