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E-grāmata: Europe's Rich Fabric: The Consumption, Commercialisation, and Production of Luxury Textiles in Italy, the Low Countries and Neighbouring Territories (Fourteenth-Sixteenth Centuries)

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  • Formāts: 258 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 05-Dec-2016
  • Izdevniecība: Routledge
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781134795925
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  • Formāts: 258 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 05-Dec-2016
  • Izdevniecība: Routledge
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781134795925

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Throughout human history luxury textiles have been used as a marker of importance, power and distinction. Yet, as the essays in this collection make clear, the term 'luxury' is one that can be fraught with difficulties for historians. Focusing upon the consumption, commercialisation and production of luxury textiles in Italy and the Low Countries during the late medieval and early modern period, this volume offers a fascinating exploration of the varied and subtle ways that luxury could be interpreted and understood in the past. Beginning with the consumption of luxury textiles, it takes the reader on a journey back from the market place, to the commercialisation of rich fabrics by an international network of traders, before arriving at the workshop to explore the Italian and Burgundian world of production of damasks, silks and tapestries. The first part of the volume deals with the consumption of luxury textiles, through an investigation of courtly purchases, as well as urban and clerical markets, before the chapters in part two move on to explore the commercialisation of luxury textiles by merchants who facilitated their trade from the cities of Lucca, Florence and Venice. The third part then focusses upon manufacture, encouraging consideration of the concept of luxury during this period through the Italian silk industry and the production of high-quality woollens in the Low Countries. Graeme Small draws the various themes of the volume together in a conclusion that suggests profitable future avenues of research into this important subject.
List of Tables, Figures and Plates
vii
Notes on Contributors xiii
Preface xvii
Introduction: Luxury Textiles in Italy, the Low Countries and Neighbouring Territories (Fourteenth to Sixteenth Centuries): A Conceptual Investigation 1(10)
Bart Lambert
Katherine Anne Wilson
PART I CONSUMPTION OF LUXURY TEXTILES
1 `In the chamber, in the garde robe, in the chapel, in a chest': The Possession and Uses of Luxury Textiles. The Case of Later Medieval Dijon
11(24)
Katherine Anne Wilson
2 `O per honore, o per commodo mio': Displaying Textiles at the Gonzaga Court (Fifteenth-Sixteenth Centuries)
35(34)
Christina Antenhofer
3 Between Mass and `Mystere': The Life of Saint Remigius and the Ceremonial Function of Choir Tapestries
69(22)
Laura Weigert
PART II COMMERCIALISATION OF LUXURY TEXTILES
4 `Se fist riche par draps de soye' The Intertwinement of Italian Financial Interests and Luxury Trade at the Burgundian Court (1384--1481)
91(16)
Bart Lambert
5 Florence, Nuremberg and Beyond: Italian Silks in Central Europe during the Renaissance
107(24)
Francesco Guidi-Bruscoli
6 Trading Silks and Tapestries in Sixteenth-Century Antwerp
131(28)
Jeroen Puttevils
PART III PRODUCTION OF LUXURY TEXTILES
7 The Move to Quality Cloth. Luxury Textiles, Labour Markets and Middle Class Identity in a Medieval Textile City. Mechelen in the Late Thirteenth and Early Fourteenth Centuries
159(22)
Peter Stabel
8 Woollen Luxury Cloth in Late Medieval Italy
181(24)
Franco Franceschi
9 A Luxury Industry: The Production of Italian Silks 1400--1600
205(30)
Luca Mola
Centres, Peripheries and the Performative Textile: By Way of Conclusion 235(6)
Graeme Small
Index 241
Bart Lambert is a Lecturer in the History of Renaissance and Reformation Europe at Durham University. His research interests focus on the history of international trade and banking in late medieval Europe and the history of immigration in England during the later Middle Ages. Katherine Anne Wilson works as a Senior Lecturer in Medieval History at the University of Chester. She is a specialist in the history of tapestry production and consumption, cultural history, material culture and gift-exchange relations in the Burgundian Dominions.