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E-grāmata: Formulary of Perfumery and Cosmetology

  • Formāts: 266 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 28-Oct-2013
  • Izdevniecība: Routledge
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781136219795
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  • Formāts: 266 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 28-Oct-2013
  • Izdevniecība: Routledge
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9781136219795
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First published in 2006.  'As perfume is an art, it should be revealed to artists' was the passionate belief of the author, the renowned French cosmetic chemist R-M Gattefosse, who coined the term 'aromatherapy' and was instrumental in its development. In this volume Gattefosse set out to restore the fortunes of the French perfume industry after World War II by educating a new generation in the artistic principles of perfumery and cosmetology as well in chemical and technical matters.
Introduction xi
Formulary Of Perfumery
The Perfume Industry
1(2)
The Raw Materials of the Perfumer
3(1)
PART I SYNTHETIC PERFUMES AND 100% COMPOSITIONS
4(52)
Solubility Table of Terpeneless Essential Oils
7(1)
Solubility Table of Principal Synthetic Perfumes
8(1)
Table of Compositions of most frequently used Essential Oils
9(1)
Table of Constituents of commercially used Essential Oils
10(1)
Comparison between Solubilities of Essential Oils and Terpeneless Essences
11(1)
Table of Concentrations of Terpeneless Essences
11(1)
Floral Compositions
12(1)
Table of Floral Families
13(1)
Family of Jasmines
14(10)
Jasmine Variety
14(3)
Lilac Variety
17(3)
Lily of the Valley Variety
20(2)
Cyclamen Variety
22(1)
Mock Orange
23(1)
Ylang-ylang Variety
24(1)
Bouvardia
24(1)
Amaryllis
24(1)
Orange Family
24(3)
Neroli Variety
24(1)
Acacia Variety
25(1)
Sweet Pea Variety
26(1)
Family of Narcissus
27(5)
Narcissus Variety
28(1)
Hyacinth Variety
29(1)
Jonquil Variety
30(1)
Glycine
30(1)
Gardenia Variety
31(1)
Honeysuckle Variety
32(1)
Magnolia
32(1)
Rose Family
32(5)
Violet Family
36(1)
Violet Variety
37(4)
Iris (Orris)
40(1)
Mignonette (Reseda) Variety
40(1)
Mimosa Family
41(1)
Citrus Family
42(1)
Verbena
42(1)
Artificial Bergamot
43(1)
Aurantiaceæ Family
43(1)
Lavender Family
43(1)
Fern Variety
44(1)
Mint Family
44(1)
Spice Family
45(3)
Carnation Variety
45(3)
Oriental Perfume
48(1)
Family of Sylvestræ
48(1)
Chypre Variety
48(1)
Patchouli Composition
49(1)
Vetiver Composition
49(1)
Leaf Family
49(2)
Clover Variety
50(1)
Vanilla Family
51(1)
Heliotrope Variety
51(1)
Anise Family
51(2)
Amber Family
53(2)
Musk Variety
54(1)
Amber Variety
55(1)
Use of Artificial Perfumes
55(1)
PART II ALCOHOLIC PERFUMES
56(111)
1 Toilet Waters
Colognes
57(23)
Russian and Amber-like Cologne Waters (Eaux-de-Cologne)
61(2)
The use of Terpeneless Essential Oils
63(4)
Cheap Eaux-de-Cologne
67(2)
Floral Colognes
69(7)
Eau-de-Cologne. Should the Cologne be Fixed?
76(3)
Eau-de-Portugal
79(1)
Eau-de-Quinine
79(1)
Lavender Waters and Spirits of Lavender
80(8)
English Recipes
85(1)
Some Classical Recipes
86(2)
Lavender Colognes and Fancy Lavenders
88(2)
Technique of Preparation
90(3)
2 De-luxe Extracts and Perfumes for Handkerchiefs
The Formulation in Perfumery
93
Bases
83(17)
Use of Bases
97(3)
Perfumes for Men
100(12)
Chypres---Chypre Compositions
100(3)
Leather Perfumes
103(1)
Tobacco Flowers
104(1)
Tobacco Flavours
105(4)
Wood Perfumes---Wood Compositions
109(3)
Floral Fancies
112(24)
Lilac---Lilac Variations
113(4)
Rose---Rose Variations
117(1)
Violet and Iris (Orris)---Violet Variations
118(2)
Amber---Amber Variations
120(2)
Fancy Odours free of Dominant Notes
122(5)
Aldehyde Notes---Some Aldehyde Compositions
127(4)
Lavender Extracts for Handkerchiefs---English Formulae for Lavender Extracts
131(5)
Fixation
136(7)
Specific Fixatives
139(4)
3 Various Types of Perfumes
Floral Waxes
143(1)
Soap Perfumes: Almond, Chypre, Cologne, Fern, Heliotropin, Jasmine, etc.
144(9)
Lavender Perfumes for Soaps
153(2)
Odorant Fumigants
155(3)
Papers for Burning
156(1)
Disinfecting Paper
157(1)
Liquids for Lamps
157(1)
Fragrant Pellets for Central Heating
157(1)
Theatre Perfumes
158(2)
Volatile Perfumes for Atomisation into Air
159(1)
Perfumes for Beauty Products
160(2)
Perfumes for Powders and Make-ups
162(2)
Perfumes for Oils
164(1)
Conclusions
165(2)
Formulary Of Cosmetology
Introduction
167(1)
Cosmetology
167(1)
1 Beauty Creams
Petroleum Jellies
168(1)
Anhydrous Lano-Petroleum Jellies
169(1)
Hydrated Lano-Petroleum Jellies
170(1)
Ointments containing Metallic Salts
171(1)
Fatty Pomades
171(1)
Cholesterol-containing Petroleum Jellies
172(2)
Fatty Milks
174(1)
Cold Cream
174(3)
English Cold Cream---American Cold Cream
175(1)
Animal, Vegetable and Mixed Cold Creams
176(1)
Emulsions with a Continuous Water Phase
177(4)
Stearate Creams
177(1)
Creams based on Sodium Stearate
178(1)
Creams based on Ammonium Stearate
178(1)
Creams based on Tnethanolamine Stearate
179(2)
Beauty Milks
181(1)
Carbohydrate Creams
182(1)
Cleansing Creams
183(1)
Antiseptic Creams
184(1)
Creams with Fruit Juices
184(1)
Various Creams
184(4)
Astringent and Deodorant Cream
185(1)
Analgesic Cream for Massage in Cellulitis
185(1)
Camphor Cream for Massage
185(1)
Menthol Cream for Massage
185(1)
Vitamin or Hormone Creams
185(2)
Creams for Special Treatments
187(1)
Coloured Foundation Creams
187(1)
Shaving Creams
188(1)
2 Cosmetic Specialties for Holidays
Products Against Sunburn
189(4)
Sun Tan Lotion
189(1)
Sun Protective Oils
190(1)
Sun Protective Creams
191(2)
Creams for Sports
193(3)
Arnica Cream
193(1)
Massage Cream
193(1)
Ointment against Cramps
193(1)
Ointment against Chilblains and Acrocyanosis
193(1)
Marine Cream against Mists, Fogs, etc.
193(1)
Foot Cream
194(1)
Cleansers
194(1)
Anti-insect Preparations
195(1)
3 Rouges
Anhydrous Fatty Rouge---Adherent Fatty Rouge
196(1)
Hydrated Fatty Rouge---Cold Cream Rouge
196(1)
Glycerine---containing Rouge
196(1)
Base for Dry Rouge
197(1)
Base for Fatty Make-up
197(1)
Compact Rouges
197(1)
Lip Rouges
197(5)
Rouges Coloured in the Mass
199(1)
Opaque Rouges
199(1)
Rouges Emulsified in Oily Phase
200(1)
Rouges Emulsified in Aqueous Phase
201(1)
Powders
202(2)
Covering Power
203(1)
Dry, Semi-fat and Fatty Powders
203(1)
Toilet Talcum Powders
204(1)
Beauty Masks
204(4)
Gelatinous Mask
204(2)
Fatty Mask
206(1)
Acid Cleansing Mask
206(1)
Neutral Fatty Mask
206(1)
Benzoin Milk
207(1)
Cream Masks
207(1)
4 Lotions
Face Lotions
208(1)
Tonic Alkaline Lotion
208(1)
Tonic Neutral Lotion
208(1)
Softening Lotion
208(1)
Sulphur Lotion against Acne
208(1)
Astringent Lotion
209(1)
Vasomotor Lotion
209(1)
Acid Lotion
209(1)
Eye Lotions
209(1)
Eyebrow Liquids
210(1)
Cosmetic Lotions for the Care of Skin (According to Aromatherapy Recipes)
210(3)
Anti-parasite Lotions
213(1)
Eaux-Lustrales
214(1)
Toilet Vinegars
215(2)
Bath Salts
217(1)
5 Dentifrices
Tooth Pastes
218(2)
Dentifrice Powders
220(1)
Elixirs and Dentifrice Waters
220(2)
6 Hair Products
Light Separable Brilliantines
222(1)
Brilliantines and Hair Oils with Film-forming Properties
223(2)
Solidified Brilliantines
225(1)
Brilliantine Emulsions
226(1)
Hair Fixatives
226(1)
Hair Creams with Film-forming Properties
227(1)
Hair Cream containing Marrow and having Film-forming Properties
227(1)
Shampoos
228(4)
Permanent Wave Solutions
232(5)
Depilatories
237(1)
Epilating Waxes
238(1)
7 Nail Preparations
Nail Polishes
238(1)
Nail Polish Solvent
238(3)
Nail Polishing Powders
241(1)
Nail Preserving Creams
241(1)
Cuticle Removers
242
French cosmetic chemist R-M Gattefosse,  coined term 'Aromotherapy'.