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xv | |
| Series Preface |
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xix | |
| Preface |
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xxi | |
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Part I Historical Aspects |
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1 | (36) |
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History of Natural Dyes in the Ancient Mediterranean World |
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3 | (18) |
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3 | (3) |
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Ancient Mediterranean World |
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3 | (1) |
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4 | (1) |
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Unveiling the Secrets of Ancient Dyes with Modern Science |
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5 | (1) |
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6 | (4) |
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6 | (2) |
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8 | (1) |
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Flavylium/Anthocyanin Reds |
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8 | (2) |
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10 | (3) |
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10 | (2) |
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12 | (1) |
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Ancient Purple (Tyrian Purple) |
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13 | (2) |
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15 | (2) |
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15 | (2) |
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17 | (1) |
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Chalcone and Aurone Yellows |
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17 | (1) |
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17 | (1) |
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17 | (4) |
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Colours in Civilizations of the World and Natural Colorants: History under Tension |
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21 | (6) |
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21 | (1) |
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The Triumph of Mauvein: Synthetic Fulfilment of the Antique Purplemania |
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22 | (1) |
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Blue: from Kingly Regional to Globally Democratic |
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23 | (1) |
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Red and Yellow: from Micro to Macro Scales |
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24 | (1) |
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What Future for Natural Colorants in the Dawning Era of Renewable Resources? |
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25 | (2) |
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26 | (1) |
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26 | (1) |
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History of Natural Dyes in North Africa `Egypt' |
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27 | (10) |
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27 | (1) |
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Natural Dyes in Pharaonic Textiles |
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28 | (1) |
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28 | (1) |
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29 | (2) |
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29 | (1) |
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30 | (1) |
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30 | (1) |
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30 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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Dyeing in Coptic Textiles |
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31 | (2) |
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Wool Dyed Fabric with Natural Dye |
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33 | (1) |
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33 | (1) |
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34 | (3) |
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36 | (1) |
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Part II Regional Aspects of Availability of Plant Sources |
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37 | (36) |
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39 | (14) |
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39 | (1) |
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Potential European Dye Plants |
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39 | (1) |
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Cultivation of Dye Plants Yesterday and Now |
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40 | (1) |
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Modern Cultivation Methods for Important European Dye Plants |
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41 | (7) |
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41 | (1) |
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42 | (1) |
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43 | (1) |
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44 | (2) |
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46 | (2) |
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Production of Dye Extracts |
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48 | (2) |
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Relevant Examples for the Application |
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50 | (1) |
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Conclusions, Discussion and Summary |
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50 | (3) |
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51 | (2) |
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53 | (12) |
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Adriana Zerlotti Mercadante |
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53 | (2) |
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55 | (2) |
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57 | (2) |
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59 | (1) |
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60 | (5) |
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62 | (1) |
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62 | (3) |
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Natural Dyes in Eastern Asia (Vietnam and Neighbouring Countries) |
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65 | (8) |
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65 | (1) |
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Annatto (Botanical Name Bixa orellana L., Family Bixaceae) |
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65 | (2) |
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Tea (Botanical Name Camellia sinensis (L.) Kuntze, Family Theaceae) |
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67 | (1) |
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Umbrella Tree (Botanical Name Terminalia catappa L., Family Combretaceae) |
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67 | (1) |
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Diospyros mollis - Mackloeur (Botanical Name Diospyros mollis L. Griff, Family Ebenaceae) |
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68 | (1) |
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Indigo (Botanical Name Indigofera L., Family Fabaceae) |
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68 | (1) |
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68 | (1) |
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Indigofera galegoides DC. |
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69 | (1) |
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Strobilanthes cusia (Baphicacanthus) |
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69 | (1) |
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Henna (kok khan, or khao youak in Laos) (Botanical Name Lawsonia spinosa L., Family Lythraceae) |
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69 | (1) |
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Nacre (Botanical Name Khaya senegalensis, Family Meliaceae) |
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69 | (1) |
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Sappan Wood (Botanical Name Caesalpinia sappan L., Family Fabaceae) |
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69 | (1) |
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Sophora japonica Flowers (Botanical Name Sophora japonica L., Family Leguminosae) |
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70 | (1) |
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Turmeric (Botanical Name Curcuma longa L., Family Zingiberaceae) |
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70 | (1) |
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Sapodilla (Botanical Name Manilkara zapota L. or Achras zapota, Family Sapotaceae) |
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70 | (1) |
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Betel (Botanical Name Piper betle L., Family Piperaceae) |
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71 | (1) |
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Eucalyptus (Botanical Name Eucalyptus, Family Myrtaceae) |
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71 | (1) |
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Caesalpinia Yellow (Botanical Name Caesalpinia pulcherrima L., Family Fabaceae) |
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71 | (1) |
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Brow-tuber (Botanical Name Dioscorea cirrhosa Lour, Family Dioscoreaceae) |
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71 | (2) |
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Part III Colorant Production and Properties |
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73 | (182) |
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Indigo - Agricultural Aspects |
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75 | (30) |
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Luciana Gabriella Angelini |
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75 | (1) |
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76 | (16) |
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76 | (1) |
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77 | (15) |
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92 | (9) |
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92 | (1) |
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93 | (8) |
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101 | (4) |
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103 | (1) |
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103 | (2) |
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105 | (30) |
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105 | (1) |
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Methods of Determining Indigo |
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106 | (2) |
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Precursors in the Plants and Indigo Formation |
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108 | (6) |
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114 | (12) |
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Traditional Process Using Crushed Leaf Material |
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114 | (3) |
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117 | (9) |
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126 | (9) |
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130 | (1) |
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130 | (5) |
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Anthocyanins: Nature's Glamorous Palette |
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135 | (16) |
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135 | (7) |
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135 | (2) |
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137 | (3) |
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Colour and Colour Stability |
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140 | (1) |
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Anthocyanins as Antioxidants |
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141 | (1) |
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Natural Sources for Anthocyanins |
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142 | (2) |
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Plant Sources, Content, Influencing Parameters |
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142 | (2) |
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144 | (2) |
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144 | (1) |
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145 | (1) |
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Examples of Commercial Products and Processing |
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146 | (5) |
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147 | (4) |
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Natural Colorants - Quinoid, Naphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes |
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151 | (32) |
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151 | (1) |
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151 | (1) |
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152 | (5) |
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Lawson (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Orange 6) |
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153 | (3) |
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Juglone (5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, CI Natural Brown 7) |
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156 | (1) |
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157 | (14) |
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Main Components Emodin and Chrysophanol - Rheum Species and Rumex Species |
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157 | (2) |
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Main Components Alizarin and/or Pseudopurpurin/Purpurin |
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159 | (12) |
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Other Sources of Anthraquinoid Dyes |
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171 | (12) |
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171 | (12) |
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Dyes from Lichens and Mushrooms |
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183 | (18) |
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Use of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes in the Past |
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183 | (1) |
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Cultivation of Lichens and Mushrooms |
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184 | (1) |
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Dyestuffs in Lichens and Mushrooms |
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185 | (12) |
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Lichen Dyestuffs: Orchils and Litmus |
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185 | (6) |
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Yellowish, Brownish and Reddish Colorants from Lichen |
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191 | (1) |
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192 | (1) |
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192 | (4) |
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196 | (1) |
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Colour-fastness of Lichen and Mushroom Dyes |
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197 | (1) |
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New Approaches to Lichen and Fungal Natural Dyes |
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198 | (3) |
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198 | (3) |
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Tannins and Tannin Agents |
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201 | (20) |
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201 | (2) |
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Chemical Structure, Biosynthesis and Degradation |
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203 | (4) |
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207 | (1) |
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Chemical Activities of Tannins |
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208 | (1) |
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209 | (3) |
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209 | (1) |
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Extraction and Purification |
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209 | (1) |
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Quantification of Tannins |
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210 | (2) |
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Use, Toxicology and Safety Aspects of Tannins |
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212 | (9) |
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214 | (7) |
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Carotenoid Dyes - Properties |
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221 | (16) |
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221 | (4) |
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Occurrence of Carotenoids |
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221 | (1) |
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221 | (1) |
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Chemical Characteristics of Natural Carotenoids |
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222 | (3) |
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Properties and Functions of Carotenoids |
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225 | (3) |
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Carotenoids Role as Pro-vitamin A |
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225 | (2) |
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Use of Carotenoids as Markers of Dietary Practices |
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227 | (1) |
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Carotenoids as Antioxidants |
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227 | (1) |
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Carotenoids in the Macular Region of the Retina |
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227 | (1) |
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Carotenoids as Anticancer Agent |
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228 | (1) |
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Carotenoids as a Natural Colorant |
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228 | (1) |
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General Procedure for Carotenoid Analysis |
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228 | (5) |
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228 | (2) |
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230 | (1) |
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Saponification of Carotenoids |
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230 | (1) |
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Chromatographic Separation |
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230 | (1) |
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231 | (1) |
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Detection and Identification of Carotenoids |
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231 | (2) |
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Quantification of Carotenoids |
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233 | (1) |
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Problems in Carotenoid Analysis |
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233 | (4) |
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234 | (3) |
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Carotenoid Dyes - Production |
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237 | (6) |
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Factors Influencing Carotenoid Composition in Plant Sources |
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237 | (6) |
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237 | (1) |
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Cultivar or Varietal Differences |
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238 | (1) |
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Climatic or Geographic Effects |
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238 | (1) |
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Post-harvest Storage and Packing |
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239 | (1) |
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Changes in Processing/Cooking |
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239 | (2) |
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241 | (1) |
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241 | (2) |
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243 | (12) |
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Ursula Maria Lanfer Marquez |
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243 | (1) |
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Chlorophylls as Colorants |
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244 | (3) |
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Other Applications of Chlorophylls and their Derivatives |
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247 | (1) |
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Chemical Structures and Physicochemical Properties |
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247 | (3) |
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250 | (1) |
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Sources, Storage and Handling |
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250 | (1) |
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Purity, Standardization and Quality Control |
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251 | (1) |
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Toxicological and Safety Aspects |
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252 | (3) |
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253 | (2) |
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Part IV Application in Technical Use and Consumer Products |
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255 | (96) |
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Flavonoids as Natural Pigments |
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257 | (20) |
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257 | (1) |
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Role of Localized Flavonoids in the Plant |
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258 | (1) |
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General Flavonoid Chemical Structure |
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258 | (1) |
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Biosynthesis of Flavonoids |
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259 | (2) |
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Anthocyanins as Natural Colorants |
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261 | (7) |
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261 | (1) |
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261 | (2) |
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Structural Transformation and pH |
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263 | (1) |
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264 | (1) |
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264 | (1) |
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265 | (1) |
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265 | (1) |
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266 | (1) |
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Co-pigmentation and Metal Complexation |
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267 | (1) |
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Other Flavonoids as Natural Colorants |
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268 | (2) |
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Yellow Flavonoid Pigments |
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268 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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Therapeutic Effects of Flavonoids in the Diet |
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270 | (1) |
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Regulations on the Use of Flavonoid Colorants |
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271 | (6) |
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272 | (5) |
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Application of Natural Dyes in the Coloration of Wood |
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277 | (38) |
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277 | (6) |
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278 | (4) |
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282 | (1) |
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283 | (1) |
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283 | (2) |
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285 | (5) |
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Dyeing for Analytical Purposes |
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285 | (1) |
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286 | (4) |
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290 | (18) |
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291 | (4) |
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295 | (2) |
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297 | (1) |
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298 | (3) |
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301 | (2) |
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303 | (2) |
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305 | (3) |
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308 | (7) |
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308 | (7) |
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Natural Colorants in Textile Dyeing |
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315 | (24) |
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315 | (1) |
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Reasons for Natural Coloration |
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316 | (1) |
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Analysis of a Dyeing Process |
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317 | (4) |
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318 | (1) |
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318 | (1) |
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Dyestuff and Chemicals (Mordants and Auxiliaries) |
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319 | (2) |
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321 | (1) |
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Basics of Natural Dyeings |
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321 | (11) |
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Requirements of the Dyestuff |
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321 | (1) |
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Dye-ability of Substrates |
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321 | (5) |
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Standardization of the Dyestuff |
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326 | (1) |
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327 | (1) |
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328 | (1) |
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329 | (1) |
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330 | (1) |
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Standardization of the Coloration Process |
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331 | (1) |
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Mixtures of Plant Material |
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331 | (1) |
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Natural Dyes on an Industrial Scale |
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332 | (2) |
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Hank Dyeing of Woolen Yarn and Production of Woolen Caps |
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332 | (1) |
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Dyeing of Cones in a Yarn Dyeing Machine |
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333 | (1) |
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Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jet Dyeing Machine |
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333 | (1) |
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Dyeing of Cotton Fabric on a Jig Dyeing Machine |
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333 | (1) |
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Fabric Dyeing on a Garment Dyeing Machine |
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333 | (1) |
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Dyeing of Polyamide Tights in a Paddle Dyeing Machine |
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334 | (1) |
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334 | (5) |
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334 | (1) |
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335 | (4) |
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Natural Colorants in Hair Dyeing |
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339 | (12) |
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339 | (1) |
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340 | (1) |
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General Requirements on Hair Dyeing Concepts |
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340 | (1) |
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Chemical Principles of Dyestuff Binding |
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341 | (1) |
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Relevant Natural Dyes for Hair Dyeing |
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342 | (5) |
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Naphthoquinone Dyes - Henna and Walnut |
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342 | (1) |
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343 | (2) |
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345 | (1) |
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346 | (1) |
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347 | (1) |
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347 | (1) |
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347 | (4) |
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347 | (4) |
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351 | (34) |
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Environmental Aspects and Sustainability |
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353 | (14) |
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353 | (1) |
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354 | (3) |
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Cultivation of Dye Plants |
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354 | (1) |
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Residual Materials and By-products |
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355 | (1) |
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Selection Process for a Sustainable Supply of Plant Material |
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356 | (1) |
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357 | (3) |
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358 | (1) |
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359 | (1) |
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Application of Colouring Matter |
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360 | (1) |
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361 | (1) |
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Considerations Concerning the Life Cycle |
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361 | (3) |
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361 | (1) |
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Processing of Raw Material |
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362 | (1) |
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362 | (1) |
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363 | (1) |
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363 | (1) |
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364 | (3) |
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Dealing with Sustainability |
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364 | (1) |
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365 | (2) |
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Economic Aspects of Natural Dyes |
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367 | (18) |
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367 | (1) |
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Basic Requirements for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants |
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368 | (2) |
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Challenges for the Industrial Use of Natural Colorants |
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370 | (1) |
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Quality of Raw Material and Reproducibility of Colours |
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370 | (1) |
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Range of Available Colours |
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370 | (1) |
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371 | (4) |
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Market Research for Naturally Dyed Products |
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372 | (3) |
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Production Costs of Natural Colorant Products |
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375 | (6) |
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375 | (1) |
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Aspects Influencing Production Costs |
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376 | (2) |
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Prices of Synthetic Dyes - How Much Are Textile Companies Prepared to Pay for Dyes? |
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378 | (1) |
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Acceptable Production Costs through a Mixed Portfolio (Agricultural Primary Production and Residues from Other Production Processes) |
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379 | (2) |
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Closed-Loop Economy: Towards a Zero-Emission and Zero-Waste Society |
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381 | (1) |
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Conclusion: Aspects Influencing Market Development for Natural Colorants |
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382 | (3) |
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383 | (2) |
| Index |
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385 | |
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