E-grāmata: Headland-bay Beaches: Static Equilibrium Concept For Shoreline Management

John Rong-Chung Hsu is Honorary Research Fellow at University of Western Australia, Australia, and Emeritus Professor at National Sun Yat-sen University in Taiwan. He obtained his PhD from the University of Western Australia in 1980. Professor Hsu has served the Board of Advisory Editors, Coastal Engineering (19962017) and on Editorial Board, Coastal Engineering Journal, Japan Society of Civil Engineers (19972013). With Professor Richard Silvester, he co-authored a 578-page book "Coastal Stabilization: Innovative Concept" by Prentice-Hall in 1993, with reprint by World Scientific in 1997. He and Antonio Klein were Guest Editors of a special issue on "Hydrodynamics and Applications of Headland-Bay Beaches" for Coastal Engineering in 2010.

During his 40 years academic life, he has been involved in some 30 consultant projects on shore protection in Australia, Brunei, Japan, Taiwan, and Thailand, published 45 papers on headland-bay beaches since 1987, and 20 papers on internal gravity waves since 2000. However, his best known achievement was parabolic model (Hsu and Evans, 1989) for headland-bay beaches in static equilibrium. This empirical model has emerged as the most promising for engineering applications, since 1999, accepted globally for project evaluation and pre-design of embayed beaches, beach nourishment projects, and verification of bay beach stability for coastal management.

Jung Lyul Lee is Professor and the Director of Beach and Shore Management Center at Sungkyunkwan University (SKKU - Suwon campus), Korea. After obtaining his PhD from the University of Florida (Gainesville) in 1993, he was appointed as a professor at SKKU in 1995. Professor Lee has taught and researched at SKKU ever since 1995. During this period, Professor Lee has supervised many research students (undergraduate, Master's and PhD) and published a large volume of papers in national and international referred journals and conference proceedings.

Professor Lee's main research interest can be summarized as follows:

Wave-current interaction, wave-structure interaction, wind wave propagation, wave deformation, and wave overtopping; Storm-surge inundation, long wave run-up and inundation, wave-induced currents, rip current generation, and oil-spill transport; Suspended sediment transport, morphological change, shoreline and beach profile change, erosion risk management, and water-quality modeling; GUI-based modeling, comprising WADEM wave deformation model, typhoon generated wind wave model, wave-permeable structure interaction model, ship wave propagation; DICEM tide/storm-surge/wave-induced current model; TICEM oil-spill, suspended sediment transport in coastal environmental model; SADEM sand deposition and erosion model; DCOM long term shoreline/depth contour change model; MeePaSoL a MATLAB-based GUI software tool for shoreline management.



Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein completed his PhD in Marine Sciences from the University of Algarve, Portugal in 2004. He is currently Associate Professor of the Special Oceanography Coordination in Physical and Mathematical Science Center, Federal University of Santa Catarina (UFSC). He was a Senior Lecturer at the University of the Vale do Itajaķ in Santa Catarina State, for 16.5 years. During 20142019, he was Coordinator of the Master's Degree in Oceanography at the UFSC. He was also a Visiting Professor at Faculty of Life and Health Science, Ulster University in Northern Ireland.

Since 2007 he has been a Research Fellow from CNPQ, receiving scholarship to develop teaching and research materials at the Hanse-Wissenschaftskolleg, Germany (20062007), and for the Master's program in Coastal and Marine Engineering and Management - Erasmos Mundus at TU Delft, the Netherlands (20082009).

During his 29 years of academic career, he has organized many national and international scientific meetings, published many papers in referred journals, conference proceedings, books and book chapters, software, and supervised some 60 research students (undergraduate, Master, PhD, and Post-doc). His Google Scholar citation indices reaches 2,652.

Mauricio Gonzįlez is a Full Professor and Head of Coastal Management and Engineering Group, IHCantabria, Universidad de Cantabria, Spain.

His main area of expertise covers coastal numerical modeling, coastal processes and engineering, beach morphodynamics, coastal risk assessment and management, climate change impacts on coastal areas, coastal flooding, numerical modeling of tsunamis and tsunami risk assessment. In addition, he contributes to the development of numerical models, tools and methodologies regarding coastal hydro-morphodynamics and coastal risks, especially for Coastal Modeling System (SMC) and SMC-Brasil. He has participated in (1) more than 30 research I&D projects for the Spanish Science Program, laboratory and numerical investigation of hydro- and morphodynamics on natural and artificial beaches; (2) more than 17 I&D European Projects on Assessment, STrategy And Risk Reduction for Tsunamis in Europe; and (3) developing coastal video monitoring systems in support of coastal zone management.

He has co-authored 70 papers in scientific journals and more than 180 in international conference proceedings, participated in more than 150 international consultancy and cooperation projects in the last 15 years, for different national and international administrations and institutions, on projects related to coastal engineering and Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM), coastal erosion problems, tsunami impact assessment and coastal risk assessment among others.

Raśl Medina is Full Professor in Coastal Engineering and General Director of the Institute of Engineering Hydraulics (IHCantabria), Universidad de Cantabria, Spain since 2011. He has been PI in more than 30 projects funded by the Spanish Research Agency and European Union. He has over 190 publications, with more than 120 in refereed top-ranked journals and 14 book chapters, as well as more than 300 conference papers.

His main field of research is Ocean and Coastal Engineering. In 2014 he reached the 6th position in the world in the Ocean Engineering Research Ranking. His most recognized scientific works are those related to hydrodynamics and beach morphodynamics. In this field, he has developed numerical tools and methodologies for beach design and restoration that nowadays are being used by more than 600 institutions from 56 countries.

Professor Medina has been the coordinator or collaborated in more than 50 technology transfer projects for multilateral organizations such as The Inter-American Development Bank, United Nations Development Program or World Bank, as well as the Spanish and international governments.

He has supervised 37 PhD thesis, 9 within the last 5 years. He is also a Scientific Advisor for the Inter-American Development Bank, Reviewer of European Union Projects and several national and international scientific journals.