Preface to 3rd Edition |
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vii | |
Preface to 2nd Edition |
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ix | |
Preface to 1st Edition |
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xi | |
Notation |
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xxiii | |
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1 | (20) |
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1 | (2) |
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3 | (2) |
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5 | (1) |
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5 | (5) |
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1.5 Jargon and Terminology |
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10 | (1) |
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11 | (1) |
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12 | (1) |
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13 | (5) |
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18 | (2) |
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20 | (1) |
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21 | (30) |
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21 | (9) |
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2.1.1 Description of waves |
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21 | (2) |
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23 | (2) |
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25 | (3) |
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2.1.4 Introduction to small amplitude wave theory |
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28 | (2) |
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30 | (2) |
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2.3 Small Amplitude Wave Theory |
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32 | (10) |
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32 | (3) |
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2.3.2 Small amplitude expressions |
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35 | (6) |
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2.3.3 Calculation by computer |
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41 | (1) |
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42 | (3) |
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45 | (5) |
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45 | (1) |
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46 | (3) |
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49 | (1) |
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50 | (1) |
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Chapter 3 Short-Term Wave Analysis |
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51 | (28) |
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51 | (3) |
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3.2 Short-Term Wave Height Distribution |
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54 | (5) |
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3.3 Wave Period Distribution |
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59 | (1) |
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3.4 Time Domain Analysis of a Wave Record |
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59 | (5) |
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3.5 Frequency Domain Analysis of a Wave Record |
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64 | (5) |
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3.6 Parameters Derived from the Wave Spectrum |
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69 | (3) |
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3.7 Uncertainties in Wave Measurements |
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72 | (2) |
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3.8 Common Parametric Expressions for Wave Spectra |
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74 | (3) |
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3.9 Directional Wave Spectra |
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77 | (2) |
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Chapter 4 Long-Term Wave Analysis |
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79 | (22) |
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79 | (1) |
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4.2 Statistical Analysis of Grouped Wave Data |
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80 | (2) |
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4.3 Transformation of Coordinate Axes |
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82 | (8) |
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4.3.1 Normal probability distribution |
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82 | (4) |
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4.3.2 Log-normal probability distribution |
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86 | (1) |
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4.3.3 Gumbel distribution |
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87 | (1) |
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4.3.4 Weibull distribution |
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88 | (2) |
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90 | (1) |
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4.5 Sensitivity to Distribution and Threshold Wave Height |
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91 | (1) |
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4.6 Extreme Value Analysis from Ordered Data |
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92 | (4) |
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4.7 Conclusions about Wave Heights |
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96 | (1) |
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4.8 Other Long-Term Wave Distributions |
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97 | (4) |
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Chapter 5 Wave Generation |
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101 | (14) |
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101 | (1) |
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5.2 Simple Wave Hindcasting |
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102 | (9) |
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5.2.1 Introduction to parametric methods |
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102 | (2) |
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104 | (1) |
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105 | (4) |
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5.2.4 Maximum wave conditions |
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109 | (1) |
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110 | (1) |
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111 | (1) |
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111 | (1) |
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5.3.2 Wave spectra models |
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112 | (1) |
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5.3.3 More complex hindcasting models |
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112 | (1) |
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112 | (3) |
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Chapter 6 Wave Transformation and Breaking |
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115 | (20) |
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6.1 Wave Transformation Equations |
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115 | (1) |
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116 | (1) |
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117 | (7) |
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117 | (2) |
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6.3.2 Refraction diagrams |
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119 | (3) |
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122 | (1) |
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123 | (1) |
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124 | (6) |
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130 | (3) |
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133 | (2) |
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Chapter 7 Tides and Water Levels |
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135 | (34) |
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135 | (1) |
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136 | (16) |
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7.2.1 Equilibrium tide (Moon) |
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137 | (1) |
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7.2.2 Equilibrium tide (Sun and Moon) |
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137 | (1) |
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138 | (2) |
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140 | (1) |
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7.2.5 Tide analysis and prediction |
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141 | (1) |
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142 | (3) |
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145 | (4) |
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7.2.8 Stratification and density currents |
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149 | (2) |
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151 | (1) |
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152 | (2) |
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154 | (1) |
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155 | (3) |
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7.6 Seasonal Fluctuations |
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158 | (1) |
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7.7 Long-Term Water Level Changes |
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159 | (10) |
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7.7.1 Climatic fluctuations |
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159 | (1) |
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7.7.2 Eustatic (Sea) level change |
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160 | (1) |
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7.7.3 Isostatic (Land) rebound and subsidence |
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161 | (3) |
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7.7.4 Global climate change |
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164 | (5) |
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Chapter 8 Rare Extraneous Events |
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169 | (18) |
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169 | (1) |
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8.2 Cyclone-Generated Storm Surge |
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170 | (6) |
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8.2.1 Hurricane Katrina at New Orleans |
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172 | (4) |
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176 | (9) |
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8.3.1 Tsunamis generated by earthquakes |
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177 | (4) |
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8.3.2 Tsunamis generated by landslides |
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181 | (4) |
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8.4 Transformation and Breaking of Long Waves |
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185 | (2) |
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Chapter 9 Design of Structures |
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187 | (24) |
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187 | (1) |
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9.2 Basics of Probabilistic Design |
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188 | (2) |
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188 | (1) |
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9.2.2 Probability of failure |
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189 | (1) |
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9.2.3 Levels of probabilistic design |
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190 | (1) |
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9.3 Level II Demonstration |
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190 | (6) |
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190 | (1) |
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9.3.2 Two probability distributions |
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191 | (3) |
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9.3.3 One single distribution |
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194 | (1) |
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9.3.4 Example calculations |
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195 | (1) |
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9.4 Extension to More Complex Designs |
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196 | (1) |
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9.5 Encounter Probability |
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197 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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199 | (2) |
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201 | (7) |
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201 | (1) |
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9.8.2 Equivalence of design wave height and failure probability |
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202 | (1) |
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9.8.3 Offshore design wave height |
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203 | (1) |
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9.8.4 Design wave height for non-breaking waves |
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204 | (1) |
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9.8.5 Design wave height for breaking waves |
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205 | (3) |
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208 | (1) |
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208 | (3) |
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211 | (36) |
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10.1 Vertical Breakwaters |
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211 | (13) |
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211 | (1) |
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10.1.2 Forces for non-breaking waves |
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211 | (5) |
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10.1.3 Forces for breaking waves |
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216 | (3) |
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219 | (2) |
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10.1.5 Geotechnical stability |
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221 | (1) |
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10.1.6 Other design considerations |
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222 | (2) |
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224 | (6) |
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10.2.1 Vertical breakwater in 12 m of water with a short fetch |
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224 | (1) |
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10.2.2 Vertical breakwater in 12 m of water on an open coast |
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225 | (3) |
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10.2.3 Vertical breakwater in 3 m of water |
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228 | (1) |
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229 | (1) |
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10.3 Rubble Mound Breakwaters |
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230 | (10) |
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10.3.1 Filter characteristics |
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230 | (2) |
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232 | (3) |
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235 | (1) |
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10.3.4 Armor unit density |
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236 | (1) |
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10.3.5 Primary armor layer |
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237 | (1) |
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238 | (2) |
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240 | (4) |
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10.4.1 Breakwater in 12 m of water |
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240 | (3) |
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10.4.2 Breakwater in 3 m of water |
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243 | (1) |
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244 | (3) |
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Chapter 11 Introduction to Coastal Management |
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247 | (34) |
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247 | (1) |
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247 | (4) |
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11.3 The Coast under Pressure |
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251 | (2) |
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253 | (3) |
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11.5 Conflict and Compatibility |
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256 | (2) |
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11.6 Management Strategies |
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258 | (1) |
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11.7 Coastal Management in Spite of the Odds |
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259 | (3) |
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11.8 Management of Coastal Lands |
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262 | (2) |
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11.9 Management of Coastal Waters |
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264 | (5) |
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264 | (2) |
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266 | (2) |
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11.9.3 Other forms of pollution |
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268 | (1) |
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11.10 Example: Management of the Great Lakes-St. Lawrence Shoreline |
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269 | (4) |
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11.11 Example: Management of Coastal Ecosystems |
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273 | (4) |
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277 | (4) |
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Chapter 12 Coastal Sediment Transport |
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281 | (24) |
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281 | (1) |
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12.2 Dynamic Beach Profile |
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281 | (4) |
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12.3 Cross-Shore Transport |
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285 | (9) |
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285 | (1) |
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12.3.2 Dune-Beach disturbance |
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286 | (4) |
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12.3.3 Dune-Beach encouragement |
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290 | (1) |
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291 | (3) |
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12.4 Alongshore Sediment Transport |
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294 | (3) |
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294 | (2) |
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12.4.2 Measurement of littoral transport |
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296 | (1) |
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12.4.3 Computation of littoral transport |
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296 | (1) |
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297 | (4) |
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12.5.1 Limited amounts of beach material |
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297 | (2) |
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12.5.2 Sediment transport in two directions |
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299 | (1) |
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12.5.3 Short term littoral transport |
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300 | (1) |
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301 | (4) |
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Chapter 13 Basic Shore Processes |
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305 | (18) |
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305 | (1) |
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13.2 Nearshore Current Patterns |
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305 | (2) |
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307 | (2) |
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309 | (2) |
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309 | (1) |
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309 | (2) |
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13.5 Cross Shore Sediment Transport |
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311 | (2) |
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13.6 Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate |
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313 | (4) |
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13.6.1 Alongshore component of wave power |
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314 | (1) |
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315 | (1) |
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13.6.3 Kamphuis (1991) expression |
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315 | (2) |
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13.7 Actual Alongshore Sediment Transport Rate |
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317 | (1) |
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318 | (2) |
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320 | (3) |
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Chapter 14 Coastal Design |
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323 | (36) |
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323 | (3) |
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14.2 Model Classification |
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326 | (2) |
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14.2.1 Time-space classification |
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326 | (1) |
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14.2.2 Classification by purpose |
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327 | (1) |
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328 | (8) |
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328 | (2) |
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14.3.2 Scaling and scale effect |
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330 | (5) |
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335 | (1) |
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14.3.4 Implications for physical modeling |
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335 | (1) |
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336 | (8) |
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336 | (3) |
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14.4.2 Simplifications of three-dimensional models |
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339 | (2) |
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14.4.3 One-dimensional models and their extensions |
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341 | (1) |
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14.4.4 Performance of coastal models |
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342 | (2) |
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14.5 Field Measurement and Data Models |
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344 | (1) |
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345 | (1) |
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14.7 Reducing Uncertainty |
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346 | (3) |
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14.8 Model Interpretation |
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349 | (1) |
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350 | (2) |
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352 | (5) |
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357 | (2) |
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Chapter 15 One-Dimensional Modeling of Coastal Morphology |
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359 | (30) |
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359 | (1) |
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15.2 The 1-D Morphology Equation |
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359 | (2) |
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15.3 Sediment Transport Rate |
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361 | (1) |
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15.3.1 Potential sediment transport rate |
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361 | (1) |
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15.3.2 Actual sediment transport rate |
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362 | (1) |
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15.4 Wave Transformation Computation |
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362 | (3) |
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15.4.1 Wave shoaling, refraction and breaking |
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362 | (1) |
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363 | (2) |
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15.5 Analytical Computation of Shore Morphology |
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365 | (7) |
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15.5.1 Simplifications and assumptions |
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365 | (2) |
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15.5.2 Complete barrier solution |
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367 | (2) |
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15.5.3 Bypassing barrier solution |
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369 | (3) |
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372 | (9) |
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372 | (2) |
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15.6.2 Implicit finite difference scheme |
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374 | (3) |
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15.6.3 Boundary conditions |
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377 | (1) |
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378 | (1) |
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15.6.5 Large shoreline curvatures |
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379 | (1) |
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380 | (1) |
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381 | (4) |
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385 | (4) |
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Chapter 16 Shore Protection |
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389 | (22) |
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389 | (2) |
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391 | (1) |
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392 | (4) |
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396 | (3) |
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399 | (1) |
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16.6 Offshore Breakwaters |
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400 | (3) |
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16.7 Artificial Nourishment |
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403 | (5) |
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408 | (3) |
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Chapter 17 Contemporary Concepts |
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411 | (20) |
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411 | (1) |
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412 | (3) |
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17.3 Contemporary Coastal System Design |
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415 | (1) |
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17.4 Contemporary Decision Making |
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416 | (2) |
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17.5 Failure, Mitigation and Adaptation |
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418 | (2) |
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17.6 Risk and Minimum Cost |
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420 | (3) |
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423 | (5) |
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17.7.1 Introduction of resilience |
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423 | (2) |
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17.7.2 Level 1 --- Design of a resilient PES |
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425 | (3) |
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428 | (3) |
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Chapter 18 Climate, Climate Change and Climate Change Impacts |
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431 | (24) |
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18.1 Essentials of Climate Change |
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431 | (8) |
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18.2 Two Examples of Climate Change Impacts |
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439 | (4) |
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18.2.1 Increased sea levels |
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439 | (2) |
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18.2.2 Change in ocean circulation |
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441 | (2) |
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18.3 Notes to Finish `Essentials of Climate Change' |
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443 | (1) |
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18.4 From the Past to the Present or from Certainty to Uncertainty |
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444 | (3) |
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18.5 The Future or What Should We Do Now |
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447 | (8) |
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447 | (1) |
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18.5.2 Urgency and calamity |
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447 | (1) |
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18.5.3 Coastal engineering teaching and research |
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448 | (7) |
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455 | (30) |
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455 | (1) |
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456 | (2) |
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19.3 Short-Term Wave Analysis |
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458 | (4) |
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19.4 Long-Term Wave Analysis |
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462 | (2) |
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464 | (1) |
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465 | (2) |
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19.7 Storm Surge and Extraneous Events |
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467 | (1) |
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468 | (4) |
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472 | (2) |
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19.10 Sediment Transport and Morphology |
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474 | (2) |
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476 | (1) |
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477 | (1) |
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19.13 Contemporary Decision Making |
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477 | (1) |
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19.14 Comprehensive Problems |
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478 | (7) |
References |
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485 | (14) |
Author Index |
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499 | (4) |
Subject Index |
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503 | |