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E-grāmata: Pattern Cutting for Clothing Using CAD: How to Use Lectra Modaris Pattern Cutting Software

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Pattern Cutting for Clothing Using CAD: How to Use Lectra Modaris Pattern Cutting SoftwarePalielināt
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The invention of computer aided design (CAD) has revolutionised pattern cutting for clothing. Lectras Modaris pattern cutting software is a key tool in pattern production. Using a practical approach and clear examples throughout, Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD is an essential guide for all users of Lectra Modaris.

Beginning with an overview of the role of patterns in clothing manufacture, the key documents and tools of the trade are discussed before the keyboard, mouse and screen layout in Lectra Modaris are introduced. Title blocks and all aspects of digitising a clothing pattern are examined in clear, concise steps, followed by a thorough guide to the Lectra Modaris toolbox and the upper and lower toolbar menus. Creating size ranges and the importance of measurements and size charts are discussed, before the book concludes with an indispensable How do I? guide to the Lectra Modaris functions and menus, indexed by required action.

Drawing on a wealth of practical experience, Pattern cutting for clothing using CAD is an indispensable, practical and user-friendly guide to making the most of Lectras Modaris software for both students and professionals in textiles and fashion.
Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles xi
Disclaimer xvii
Preface xix
Chapter 1 The role of patterns in clothing manufacture: generating and communicating information
1(6)
1.1 Introduction: the Pattern Cutter's place in apparel production
1(1)
1.2 The pattern cutting team
2(1)
1.3 Specifications, measurement charts and other documents
3(2)
1.4 Computerised documentation
5(1)
1.5 Tools of the trade
6(1)
Chapter 2 Introduction to the keyboard, mouse and screen layout in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
7(7)
2.1 Introduction to Modaris
7(2)
2.2 The keyboard
9(1)
2.3 The mouse
10(1)
2.4 The Modaris home screen layout
11(1)
2.5 Navigating the home screen: the x-axis and y-axis
11(1)
2.6 Bringing up different screens and moving them around
12(1)
2.7 Practice exercise
13(1)
Chapter 3 Title blocks in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
14(10)
3.1 Introduction: information for patterns
14(1)
3.2 Title blocks
15(1)
3.3 Model identification sheet
16(1)
3.4 Individual sheet
17(2)
3.5 Variant
19(3)
3.6 Industry example
22(2)
Chapter 4 Digitising a clothing pattern on Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
24(14)
4.1 Introduction: digitising hardware
24(2)
4.2 Digitising with or without seam allowances
26(2)
4.3 Pattern preparation
28(5)
4.4 The digitising process
33(4)
4.5 Handset button notes
37(1)
4.6 Digitising problems
37(1)
Chapter 5 Plotting using JustPrint
38(15)
5.1 Introduction to JustPrint V2R2
38(1)
5.2 How to plot out a model using JustPrint
39(4)
5.3 How to plot single pieces
43(1)
5.4 JustPrint settings
44(2)
5.5 Geometry
46(4)
5.6 Text
50(2)
5.7 Layout
52(1)
5.8 Cutfile configuration and HPGL
52(1)
Chapter 6 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F1-F3
53(16)
6.1 Introduction
53(3)
6.2 F1: creating lines and points
56(6)
6.3 F2: notches, orientation and geometric shapes
62(3)
6.4 F3: modifying lines and points
65(4)
Chapter 7 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F4-F8
69(15)
7.1 Introduction
69(1)
7.2 F4: finishing, seam allowances, corners and grain lines
69(6)
7.3 F5: derived pieces
75(1)
7.4 F6: grading
76(1)
7.5 F7: evolution system
77(1)
7.6 F8: measuring and assembly
78(6)
Chapter 8 The upper tool bar in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
84(16)
8.1 Upper tool bar
84(1)
8.2 File menu
85(3)
8.3 Edit menu
88(1)
8.4 Sheet menu
89(2)
8.5 Corner tools menu
91(1)
8.6 Display menu
92(3)
8.7 Sizes menu
95(1)
8.8 Selection menu
96(1)
8.9 Macro menu
96(1)
8.10 Layers menu
97(1)
8.11 Parameters menu
98(1)
8.12 Configure menu
99(1)
8.13 Tool menu
99(1)
8.14 Help menu
99(1)
Chapter 9 The lower tool bar menus and keyboard commands in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
100(5)
9.1 Lower tool bar
100(1)
9.2 Notch tools
100(1)
9.3 Marks (F1 - Relative point)
101(1)
9.4 Corner tools (F4 - Corners)
101(1)
9.5 Axis (F4 - Axis)
101(1)
9.6 Grading
101(1)
9.7 Curve points
102(1)
9.8 Print
102(1)
9.9 Cut piece
102(1)
9.10 FPattern
102(1)
9.11 User arrangement
102(1)
9.12 Control keys RHS
102(1)
9.13 Control keys LHS
103(1)
9.14 Shift
104(1)
9.15 Control (Ctrl)
104(1)
9.16 Number pad
104(1)
Chapter 10 Converting files using the Lectra interoperability function
105(12)
10.1 Introduction to the file conversion procedure
105(1)
10.2 Export procedure
106(3)
10.3 Confirming conversion has taken place
109(1)
10.4 Email attachments
109(1)
10.5 Import procedure
110(3)
10.6 Error messages
113(1)
10.7 Additional personal interoperability notes
114(3)
Chapter 11 Creating size ranges in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software
117(6)
11.1 Introduction
117(1)
11.2 Terminology
118(1)
11.3 How to create a size range
119(2)
11.4 Attaching a size range to a model
121(1)
11.5 How to change a size range
122(1)
11.6 Size correspondence
122(1)
Chapter 12 The importance of measurements and size charts for pattern cutting
123(11)
12.1 Introduction: the importance of measurements for clothing
123(1)
12.2 The development of clothing patterns
124(1)
12.3 The emergence of modern clothing patterns
125(1)
12.4 The development of sizing surveys and sizing charts
126(1)
12.5 The influence of body shape and size on measurements
127(2)
12.6 Using and comparing sizing and grading charts
129(2)
12.7 Current approaches to sizing
131(2)
12.8 Using a size chart to make clothing patterns
133(1)
12.9 References
133(1)
Chapter 13 How do I? The functions and menus that you need to know in Lectra Modaris indexed by the required action
134(5)
13.1 Introduction
134(1)
13.2 Create or add
134(2)
13.3 Copy
136(1)
13.4 Delete
136(1)
13.5 Digitise
136(1)
13.6 Display
136(1)
13.7 Join
136(1)
13.8 Move
137(1)
13.9 Moving around the screen
137(1)
13.10 Select or choose
137(1)
13.11 Separate
137(1)
13.12 Undo
137(1)
13.13 Zoom
138(1)
Appendix 1 Pattern numbering 139(5)
Appendix 2 Recommended abbreviations for naming pattern pieces in Lectra Modaris 144(2)
Appendix 3 Keyboard commands by alphabet 146(3)
Appendix 4 Lectra Modaris terminology glossary 149(2)
Index 151
Maggie Stott is the Senior Pattern Cutter at Warehouse Fashions and a Visiting Lecturer at Ravensbourne College in the UK. During a 40-year career she has worked in couture, for designer labels and high street brands. She has also been a Visiting Lecturer at the London College of Fashion. Over the last 10 years she has combined traditional cutting with CAD software such as Lectras Modaris and uses modern technology to its full advantage in the pattern cutting department.
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