| Preface |
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xix | |
| Acknowledgments |
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xxi | |
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2 | (3) |
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Functions of Patternmaking Tools |
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4 | (1) |
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5 | (1) |
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5 | (1) |
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6 | (1) |
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7 | (1) |
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Apparel Product Development |
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8 | (2) |
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8 | (1) |
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8 | (1) |
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8 | (1) |
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Pattern Development Systems |
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9 | (1) |
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Pattern Input---Digitizer |
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9 | (1) |
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Digital Printing by Lectra |
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9 | (1) |
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10 | (1) |
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11 | (1) |
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Design Specifications Sheet |
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12 | (1) |
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13 | (1) |
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13 | (1) |
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Blending, Trueing, and Equalizing |
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13 | (1) |
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14 | (1) |
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15 | (2) |
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17 | (1) |
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18 | (1) |
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19 | (3) |
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Model Form and Measurements |
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Who is the Standard Ideal Figure? |
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22 | (2) |
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Do Perfect Ratio Measurements Mean Perfect Proportions? |
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22 | (1) |
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The Perfect Figure (Red Leotard) Versus the Rest of Us |
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23 | (1) |
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Head Height---a Measuring Device for Comparison |
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23 | (1) |
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Pattern Industry Standards |
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24 | (1) |
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Department Store Standards |
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24 | (1) |
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Other Attempts at Standardization |
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24 | (1) |
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24 | (1) |
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25 | (1) |
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25 | (1) |
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26 | (1) |
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Preparing the Form for Measuring |
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26 | (1) |
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27 | (1) |
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Circumference Measurements |
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27 | (1) |
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Horizontal Balance Line (Hbl) |
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27 | (1) |
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28 | (1) |
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28 | (1) |
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28 | (1) |
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29 | (1) |
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29 | (1) |
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29 | (1) |
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Standard Measurement Chart |
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30 | (2) |
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Drafting the Basic Pattern Set |
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The Basic Dress Foundation |
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32 | (2) |
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32 | (1) |
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33 | (1) |
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33 | (1) |
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33 | (1) |
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34 | (2) |
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36 | (3) |
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Increasing and Decreasing Bust Cup |
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38 | (1) |
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39 | (1) |
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39 | (1) |
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39 | (1) |
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40 | (1) |
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40 | (2) |
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42 | (5) |
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42 | (2) |
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Skirt Back (for Suits and Separates) |
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44 | (1) |
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45 | (1) |
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Fitting Adjustments Notes |
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46 | (1) |
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Preparing Patterns for Test Fit |
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47 | (2) |
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47 | (2) |
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49 | (1) |
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49 | (1) |
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50 | (1) |
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50 | (1) |
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50 | (1) |
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51 | (2) |
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Adjusting Sleeve to Armhole of Bodice |
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53 | (6) |
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53 | (2) |
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Adjusting the Armhole to Accommodate Cap Ease |
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55 | (1) |
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Increase or Decrease the Width of the Biceps |
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56 | (1) |
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Setting the Sleeve into the Armhole |
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57 | (1) |
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Evaluate the Hang and Fit of the Sleeve |
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57 | (2) |
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Increase or Decrease Cap Ease |
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59 | (1) |
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Seamless Working Patterns |
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59 | (1) |
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60 | (4) |
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60 | (1) |
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60 | (1) |
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Basic Pattern Set---Seamed |
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61 | (3) |
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Dart Manipulation (Principle #1) |
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64 | (1) |
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64 | (1) |
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64 | (1) |
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Design Analysis and the Three Major Patternmaking Principles |
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64 | (1) |
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65 | (1) |
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65 | (1) |
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66 | (4) |
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Principle #1: Introduction to Design Patterns |
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66 | (1) |
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Applying Dart Manipulation---Principle #1 |
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66 | (1) |
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66 | (1) |
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67 | (1) |
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68 | (1) |
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68 | (2) |
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Single-Dart Series---Slash-Spread Technique |
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70 | (5) |
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70 | (1) |
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70 | (2) |
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72 | (1) |
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73 | (1) |
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74 | (1) |
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Single-Dart Series---Pivotal-Transfer Technique |
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75 | (5) |
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75 | (2) |
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77 | (1) |
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78 | (1) |
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79 | (1) |
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80 | (1) |
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The Multidispersion Working Pattern for Use When Shoulder Dart Not Required |
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80 | (1) |
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81 | (1) |
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Excess Transferred to Armhole |
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81 | (1) |
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82 | (3) |
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Consistency of Dart Angle |
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84 | (1) |
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84 | (1) |
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Two-Dart Series---Slash-Spread Technique |
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85 | (4) |
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85 | (2) |
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Mid-Shoulder and Waist Dart |
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87 | (1) |
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Mid-Armhole and Waist Dart |
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88 | (1) |
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Two-Dart Series---Pivotal-Transfer Technique |
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89 | (3) |
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89 | (1) |
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Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart |
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90 | (1) |
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Center Front Neck and Waist Dart |
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91 | (1) |
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92 | (2) |
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Designing with Darts (Tuck-Darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers) |
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94 | (1) |
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95 | (1) |
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95 | (1) |
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95 | (1) |
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96 | (2) |
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96 | (1) |
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Pivotal-Transfer Technique |
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97 | (1) |
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Dart Clusters and Dart Equivalents |
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98 | (5) |
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98 | (1) |
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99 | (1) |
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100 | (1) |
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100 | (1) |
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101 | (1) |
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Center Front Bust Cluster |
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102 | (1) |
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Graduated and Radiating Darts |
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103 | (2) |
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103 | (1) |
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104 | (1) |
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105 | (4) |
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105 | (1) |
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106 | (1) |
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Parallel Darts---Cape Effect |
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107 | (1) |
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Parallel Dart Design Variations |
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108 | (1) |
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109 | (4) |
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Asymmetric Radiating Darts |
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109 | (2) |
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111 | (1) |
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Asymmetric Dart Variations |
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112 | (1) |
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113 | (2) |
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Intersecting Dart to Waist |
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113 | (1) |
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Intersecting Dart with Gathers |
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114 | (1) |
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Intersecting Dart Design Variations |
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115 | (3) |
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118 | (1) |
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Classic Princess Styleline |
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118 | (4) |
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118 | (3) |
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Classic Princess Styleline Variations |
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121 | (1) |
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Armhole Princess Styleline |
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122 | (3) |
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Armhole Princess Styleline Variations |
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124 | (1) |
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125 | (5) |
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Panel Styleline Variations |
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127 | (3) |
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Added Fullness (Principle #2) |
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Added Fullness: Principle #2 |
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130 | (8) |
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Three Types of Added Fullness |
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130 | (1) |
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Identifying Added Fullness |
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131 | (1) |
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Fullness Along Princess Line |
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132 | (1) |
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Fullness at a Semi-Yoke Above Bust |
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133 | (1) |
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Added Fullness to a Dart Leg |
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134 | (1) |
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135 | (1) |
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Fullness Around Neck Band |
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136 | (1) |
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Added Fullness Design Variations |
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137 | (1) |
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138 | (4) |
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139 | (1) |
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Blouson with Increased Fullness |
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140 | (2) |
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Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks |
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142 | (4) |
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Basic Front Yoke---Slash and Spread |
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142 | (1) |
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Basic Back Yoke---Pivotal and Transfer |
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143 | (1) |
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Back Yoke with Inverted Box Pleat |
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144 | (1) |
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Back Yoke with Added Fullness/Gathers |
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144 | (1) |
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Back Yoke with Action Pleat |
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145 | (1) |
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145 | (1) |
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146 | (6) |
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146 | (1) |
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147 | (2) |
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149 | (2) |
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151 | (1) |
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Pleat Tucks and Pin Tucks |
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152 | (4) |
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152 | (2) |
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154 | (2) |
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Contouring (Principle #3) |
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156 | (2) |
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156 | (1) |
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Figure Versus Basic Garment |
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157 | (1) |
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157 | (1) |
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The Contour Guide Patterns |
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158 | (8) |
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Preparing the Contour Guide Patterns |
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158 | (1) |
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Measure Depth of the Hollow Areas and Chart the Patterns |
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159 | (1) |
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Guideline 1---Cutout Necklines |
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159 | (1) |
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Guideline 2---Cutout Armholes |
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159 | (1) |
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Guideline 3---Armhole Ease |
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160 | (1) |
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Guideline 4---Empire Styleline |
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160 | (1) |
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Guideline 5---Contour Between the Busts |
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161 | (1) |
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Guideline 6---Strapless Designs |
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161 | (1) |
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Shoulder Slope and Side Ease |
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162 | (1) |
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162 | (1) |
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How to Use the Contour Guide Patterns |
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163 | (3) |
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166 | (4) |
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Empire with Shirred Midriff |
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168 | (2) |
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Surplice (or Wrap) Designs |
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170 | (2) |
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171 | (1) |
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171 | (1) |
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172 | (2) |
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172 | (2) |
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174 | (2) |
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174 | (2) |
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176 | (1) |
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176 | (1) |
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Collar Stand and Roll Types |
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177 | (1) |
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177 | (1) |
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Basic Shirt Collar Foundation |
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178 | (4) |
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178 | (1) |
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179 | (1) |
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180 | (1) |
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180 | (1) |
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Fit Problems of the Collar |
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181 | (1) |
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182 | (3) |
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182 | (1) |
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Relationship of the Collar's Stand, Width, and Neckline |
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182 | (1) |
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Three Basic Peter Pan Collars |
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182 | (1) |
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Peter Pan with 1-Inch Stand (Full-Roll) |
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183 | (1) |
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Peter Pan with 1/2-Inch Stand (Partial-Roll) |
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184 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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185 | (3) |
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185 | (2) |
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187 | (1) |
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Collars with Deep, Open Necklines |
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188 | (1) |
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188 | (1) |
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Collar for Stylized Neckline |
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188 | (1) |
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189 | (2) |
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Basic Mandarin---Design 1 |
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189 | (1) |
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Mandarin Collar Variations |
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190 | (1) |
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191 | (1) |
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192 | (1) |
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Collar and Stand Away from the Basic Neckline |
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193 | (1) |
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All-in-One Collar and Stand |
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194 | (1) |
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195 | (2) |
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195 | (1) |
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Roll Collar with Cutaway Neck |
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196 | (1) |
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197 | (3) |
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200 | (4) |
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200 | (2) |
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202 | (2) |
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204 | (4) |
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204 | (1) |
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205 | (3) |
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208 | (10) |
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208 | (1) |
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209 | (1) |
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209 | (1) |
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Making Patterns for Bias-Cut Cowls |
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209 | (1) |
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210 | (1) |
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210 | (1) |
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210 | (1) |
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211 | (2) |
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213 | (2) |
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215 | (1) |
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216 | (2) |
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218 | (3) |
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218 | (2) |
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220 | (1) |
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220 | (1) |
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221 | (2) |
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223 | (2) |
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223 | (2) |
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225 | (2) |
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225 | (2) |
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227 | (3) |
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227 | (3) |
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Skirts/Circles and Cascades |
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230 | (1) |
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230 | (1) |
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231 | (1) |
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Straight or Rectangular Shape (Basic Skirt) |
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231 | (1) |
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231 | (1) |
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Pegged or Inverted Triangle |
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231 | (1) |
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231 | (1) |
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Flexibility of Skirt Darts |
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232 | (1) |
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233 | (1) |
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234 | (1) |
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234 | (1) |
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Preparing Zipper and Waistband |
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235 | (1) |
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236 | (2) |
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237 | (1) |
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238 | (8) |
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238 | (2) |
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240 | (2) |
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One-Dart Skirt Foundation |
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242 | (1) |
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Flared Skirt Based on One-Dart Pattern |
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243 | (1) |
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244 | (2) |
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Skirts with Gathered Waistlines |
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246 | (4) |
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246 | (1) |
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Flared Skirt with Gathered Waist |
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246 | (1) |
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247 | (1) |
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Clinging Hipline with Flare Skirt---the Slinky Skirt |
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248 | (2) |
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250 | (13) |
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250 | (1) |
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251 | (3) |
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254 | (3) |
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257 | (2) |
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259 | (2) |
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261 | (2) |
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263 | (1) |
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Draped Wrap Skirt with a Cascade |
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264 | (4) |
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Asymmetric Radiating Gathers |
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266 | (2) |
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268 | (4) |
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268 | (2) |
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Diagonal Yoke with Flared Skirt |
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270 | (2) |
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272 | (5) |
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272 | (1) |
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272 | (2) |
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274 | (1) |
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274 | (3) |
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277 | (8) |
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277 | (1) |
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278 | (1) |
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278 | (2) |
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280 | (2) |
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Inverted Box-Pleated Skirt |
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282 | (3) |
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285 | (2) |
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285 | (1) |
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286 | (1) |
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287 | (2) |
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Wrap Skirt with Side Seam |
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287 | (1) |
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288 | (1) |
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Circles, Peplums, and Cascades |
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289 | (11) |
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290 | (1) |
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290 | (1) |
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290 | (1) |
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Radius Chart for Circle Skirts and Cascades |
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291 | (1) |
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292 | (3) |
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Grainline Placement Relative to the Fall of the Flare |
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295 | (1) |
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295 | (1) |
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Three-Quarter Circle Skirt |
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296 | (1) |
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297 | (1) |
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298 | (1) |
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Two Circles at Waist (Not Illustrated) |
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299 | (1) |
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Gathered Circular Skirt (Not Illustrated) |
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299 | (1) |
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Skirts with Uneven Hemlines |
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300 | (3) |
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Circular Skirt with Handkerchief Hem |
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300 | (1) |
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Circular Skirt with Graduated-Length Hemline |
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301 | (2) |
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303 | (3) |
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306 | (2) |
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306 | (1) |
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307 | (1) |
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307 | (1) |
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308 | (1) |
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308 | (4) |
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309 | (1) |
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309 | (1) |
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French Cuff (Used with Cufflinks) |
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309 | (1) |
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310 | (1) |
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311 | (1) |
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312 | (1) |
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312 | (1) |
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313 | (1) |
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Modifying Armhole to Reduce Sleeve Cap Ease |
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314 | (1) |
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314 | (1) |
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314 | (3) |
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315 | (1) |
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316 | (1) |
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316 | (1) |
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317 | (2) |
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317 | (1) |
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318 | (1) |
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319 | (2) |
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319 | (1) |
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320 | (1) |
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320 | (1) |
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321 | (3) |
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Long Lantern Sleeve---Design 1 |
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321 | (2) |
|
Short Lantern Sleeve---Design 2 |
|
|
323 | (1) |
|
Sleeves with Extended Caps |
|
|
324 | (4) |
|
|
|
324 | (1) |
|
Crescent-Shaped, Extended Cap |
|
|
325 | (1) |
|
|
|
326 | (1) |
|
Sleeve with Vertical Pleat |
|
|
327 | (1) |
|
|
|
328 | (1) |
|
|
|
329 | (1) |
|
|
|
330 | (1) |
|
Sleeve Variations with Patterns |
|
|
331 | (1) |
|
Sleeves with Lowered Armhole |
|
|
332 | (1) |
|
|
|
333 | (2) |
|
|
|
333 | (1) |
|
Pivotal-Transfer Method in Developing the Bishop Sleeve |
|
|
334 | (1) |
|
Exaggerated Bishop Sleeve |
|
|
335 | (3) |
|
Kimono, Raglan, Drop Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes |
|
|
|
Introduction to Sleeve-Bodice Combinations |
|
|
338 | (1) |
|
|
|
339 | (3) |
|
|
|
339 | (2) |
|
|
|
341 | (1) |
|
|
|
342 | (1) |
|
|
|
343 | (2) |
|
Kimono with Shoulderline Seam |
|
|
343 | (1) |
|
Kimono without Overarm Seam |
|
|
344 | (1) |
|
|
|
345 | (2) |
|
|
|
347 | (1) |
|
|
|
348 | (1) |
|
|
|
349 | (4) |
|
|
|
353 | (5) |
|
|
|
357 | (1) |
|
Raglan Design and Variations |
|
|
358 | (3) |
|
|
|
358 | (1) |
|
|
|
359 | (1) |
|
|
|
360 | (1) |
|
|
|
361 | (3) |
|
|
|
361 | (2) |
|
|
|
363 | (1) |
|
Designs Based on Raglan Foundation |
|
|
363 | (1) |
|
|
|
364 | (4) |
|
|
|
364 | (4) |
|
Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings |
|
|
|
|
|
368 | (4) |
|
|
|
369 | (1) |
|
|
|
369 | (1) |
|
Button/Buttonhole Extension |
|
|
369 | (1) |
|
Button and Buttonhole Placement Guide |
|
|
370 | (2) |
|
|
|
372 | (6) |
|
|
|
372 | (1) |
|
|
|
372 | (1) |
|
|
|
372 | (1) |
|
Facings for Cutout Necklines and Armholes |
|
|
373 | (5) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
378 | (5) |
|
Pointed Placket with Facing-in-One |
|
|
378 | (2) |
|
|
|
380 | (2) |
|
Slit Opening with Placket |
|
|
382 | (1) |
|
|
|
383 | (11) |
|
|
|
383 | (1) |
|
|
|
383 | (2) |
|
|
|
385 | (1) |
|
|
|
386 | (1) |
|
Pocket in-One with the Side Seam |
|
|
387 | (1) |
|
|
|
388 | (2) |
|
|
|
390 | (1) |
|
|
|
390 | (1) |
|
Pocket with Hidden Side Seam |
|
|
391 | (3) |
|
Dresses Without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso Foundation) |
|
|
|
|
|
394 | (5) |
|
|
|
394 | (4) |
|
|
|
398 | (1) |
|
|
|
399 | (1) |
|
The Three Basic Dress Foundations |
|
|
399 | (2) |
|
|
|
399 | (1) |
|
|
|
399 | (1) |
|
The Sheath (Fitted Silhouette) |
|
|
400 | (1) |
|
The Box-Fitted Silhouette |
|
|
400 | (1) |
|
The Shift (Semi-Fitted Silhouette) |
|
|
400 | (1) |
|
|
|
401 | (3) |
|
|
|
402 | (2) |
|
|
|
404 | (2) |
|
|
|
406 | (2) |
|
|
|
408 | (2) |
|
|
|
410 | (1) |
|
Special Patternmaking Problems |
|
|
411 | (5) |
|
Gathers Crossing Dart Areas |
|
|
411 | (1) |
|
Stylelines Crossing Dart Areas |
|
|
412 | (1) |
|
|
|
413 | (3) |
|
Strapless Foundation and Interconstruction |
|
|
|
|
|
416 | (1) |
|
Three Strapless Foundations |
|
|
416 | (1) |
|
Strapless Princess Bodice Foundations 1 and 2 |
|
|
417 | (2) |
|
Princess with Gathered Panels |
|
|
419 | (1) |
|
|
|
420 | (2) |
|
Princess Torso Foundation |
|
|
422 | (2) |
|
Fitting Problems and Solutions |
|
|
424 | (2) |
|
Construction Support for Strapless Garments |
|
|
426 | (8) |
|
Interconstruction---Light and Heavy Weight |
|
|
427 | (1) |
|
|
|
427 | (1) |
|
Preparing Patterns for the Undersupport |
|
|
428 | (6) |
|
Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Dresses |
|
|
|
|
|
434 | (1) |
|
Nature of Bias-Cut Fabric |
|
|
434 | (1) |
|
Patternmaking for Bias-Cut Garments |
|
|
434 | (1) |
|
Two Methods for Reducing Bias Stretch |
|
|
434 | (1) |
|
Fabric Selections for Bias-Cut Garments |
|
|
434 | (1) |
|
Slip Dress with a Slinky Skirt |
|
|
435 | (6) |
|
Twist Bodice with a Slinky Skirt |
|
|
441 | (3) |
|
|
|
444 | (2) |
|
|
|
446 | (2) |
|
|
|
|
Shirt and Blouse Foundations |
|
|
448 | (12) |
|
Three Shirt and Blouse Foundations |
|
|
449 | (1) |
|
Basic Shirt and Blouse Draft |
|
|
450 | (1) |
|
Basic Shirt Sleeve Foundation |
|
|
451 | (1) |
|
|
|
452 | (2) |
|
|
|
454 | (1) |
|
|
|
455 | (1) |
|
|
|
456 | (1) |
|
Shirt Facing and Band Variations |
|
|
457 | (2) |
|
Hidden Button/Buttonhole Closure |
|
|
459 | (1) |
|
Casual Shirt and Sleeve Foundation |
|
|
460 | (3) |
|
|
|
460 | (2) |
|
|
|
462 | (1) |
|
|
|
463 | (3) |
|
|
|
|
Jacket and Coat Foundations |
|
|
466 | (3) |
|
|
|
466 | (1) |
|
|
|
466 | (1) |
|
Inner Support---Terms and Definitions |
|
|
467 | (1) |
|
Basic Jacket and Coat Foundations |
|
|
468 | (1) |
|
The Jacket and Coat Sleeves |
|
|
469 | (5) |
|
|
|
469 | (1) |
|
Grading the Jacket/Coat Sleeves |
|
|
470 | (2) |
|
Tailored Two-Piece Sleeve |
|
|
472 | (2) |
|
|
|
474 | (8) |
|
|
|
474 | (4) |
|
|
|
478 | (2) |
|
Portrait Collar and Lapel |
|
|
480 | (2) |
|
|
|
482 | (2) |
|
|
|
483 | (1) |
|
|
|
484 | (4) |
|
|
|
485 | (1) |
|
|
|
486 | (1) |
|
Shawl Collar with Separated Undercollar and Facing |
|
|
487 | (1) |
|
|
|
488 | (4) |
|
Mannish Jacket Foundation |
|
|
492 | (11) |
|
|
|
492 | (1) |
|
|
|
493 | (2) |
|
|
|
495 | (2) |
|
Collar and Lapel Styles for the Mannish Jacket |
|
|
497 | (3) |
|
Transferring Dart to Neckline |
|
|
500 | (1) |
|
One-Piece Mannish Jacket Foundation |
|
|
500 | (1) |
|
|
|
501 | (1) |
|
|
|
502 | (1) |
|
|
|
503 | (1) |
|
|
|
503 | (1) |
|
|
|
503 | (1) |
|
|
|
503 | (1) |
|
Patterns for Three Panel Style |
|
|
504 | (3) |
|
Preparing Lining Patterns |
|
|
505 | (1) |
|
Marking Interface Locations |
|
|
506 | (1) |
|
Jacket and Lining Seam Allowance |
|
|
507 | (1) |
|
|
|
507 | (1) |
|
|
|
507 | (1) |
|
|
|
508 | (2) |
|
|
|
510 | (8) |
|
Evaluating the Fit of the Jacket |
|
|
518 | (2) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
520 | (4) |
|
|
|
520 | (2) |
|
|
|
522 | (2) |
|
|
|
524 | (8) |
|
How to Measure for Hood Draft |
|
|
524 | (1) |
|
Contoured Hood Foundation |
|
|
524 | (4) |
|
|
|
528 | (1) |
|
|
|
529 | (3) |
|
Knock-Off Copying Ready-Made Designs |
|
|
|
|
|
532 | (1) |
|
|
|
532 | (1) |
|
|
|
532 | (1) |
|
|
|
533 | (2) |
|
|
|
535 | (3) |
|
|
|
538 | (6) |
|
|
|
|
Pants Bifurcated---What's That? |
|
|
544 | (1) |
|
The Leg Relative to the Pant |
|
|
545 | (1) |
|
|
|
545 | (1) |
|
Analysis of the Pant Foundations |
|
|
546 | (1) |
|
Summary of the Pant Foundations |
|
|
547 | (1) |
|
Measuring for the Pant Draft |
|
|
548 | (2) |
|
|
|
550 | (2) |
|
|
|
550 | (2) |
|
Trouser---Foundation 2 (For Women and Men) |
|
|
552 | (4) |
|
Slack---Foundation 3 (For Women and Men) |
|
|
556 | (1) |
|
Jean---Foundation 4 (For Women and Men) |
|
|
557 | (5) |
|
|
|
560 | (1) |
|
Variations of the Jean Fit |
|
|
561 | (1) |
|
Completing the Pant Pattern |
|
|
562 | (2) |
|
How to Walk and True the Pant Patterns |
|
|
562 | (1) |
|
|
|
563 | (1) |
|
|
|
564 | (14) |
|
|
|
564 | (1) |
|
Culottes with Long, Wide-Sweeping Hemlines |
|
|
565 | (1) |
|
Pleated Trouser (Women and Men) |
|
|
566 | (2) |
|
|
|
568 | (1) |
|
Cutting the Trouser Patterns |
|
|
569 | (2) |
|
|
|
571 | (1) |
|
Sewing Instructions for the Pocket |
|
|
572 | (2) |
|
|
|
574 | (2) |
|
|
|
576 | (1) |
|
|
|
577 | (1) |
|
|
|
578 | (15) |
|
|
|
578 | (1) |
|
|
|
579 | (2) |
|
Baggy Pant (for Women and Men) |
|
|
581 | (1) |
|
|
|
582 | (1) |
|
Pull-On Pant with Self-Casing |
|
|
583 | (1) |
|
High-Waist Pant (for Women and Men) |
|
|
584 | (1) |
|
Jean with V-Yoke (for Women and Men) |
|
|
585 | (5) |
|
Contour Pant with Creaseline Flare |
|
|
590 | (1) |
|
Pant with Flared Leg (for Women and Men) |
|
|
591 | (1) |
|
|
|
591 | (1) |
|
|
|
592 | (1) |
|
|
|
593 | (5) |
|
|
|
593 | (1) |
|
Developing Pant Derivatives |
|
|
594 | (1) |
|
|
|
594 | (1) |
|
Short, Jamaica, and Bermuda Pants |
|
|
595 | (1) |
|
Pedal-Pushers, Toreador Pants, and Capri Pants |
|
|
596 | (1) |
|
|
|
597 | (1) |
|
|
|
598 | (4) |
|
Trouser/Slack Jumpsuit Foundations |
|
|
598 | (1) |
|
|
|
599 | (1) |
|
|
|
600 | (1) |
|
|
|
601 | (1) |
|
Pant Fit Problems/Corrections |
|
|
602 | (8) |
|
|
|
602 | (1) |
|
|
|
602 | (1) |
|
Analyzing the Fit of the Pant |
|
|
602 | (8) |
|
Knits---Stretch and Shrinkage Factors |
|
|
|
|
|
610 | (1) |
|
Stretch and Recovery Factor |
|
|
610 | (1) |
|
|
|
610 | (1) |
|
|
|
610 | (1) |
|
|
|
610 | (1) |
|
Stretch/and Recovery Gauge |
|
|
611 | (1) |
|
Classification of Knit Fabrics |
|
|
612 | (1) |
|
|
|
612 | (1) |
|
Adapting Patterns to Knits |
|
|
613 | (3) |
|
|
|
613 | (1) |
|
|
|
614 | (2) |
|
|
|
|
Types of Knit Foundations |
|
|
616 | (1) |
|
Dartless Stretchy Knit---Draft 1 |
|
|
616 | (2) |
|
Dartless Firm Knit---Draft 2 |
|
|
618 | (1) |
|
Oversized Knit Top---Draft 3 |
|
|
619 | (2) |
|
|
|
619 | (1) |
|
|
|
620 | (1) |
|
Crop Top with a Muscle Sleeve |
|
|
621 | (1) |
|
|
|
622 | (2) |
|
Activewear for Dance and Exercise |
|
|
|
|
|
624 | (1) |
|
|
|
624 | (3) |
|
Method for Correcting Pattern to Improve Fit |
|
|
627 | (1) |
|
|
|
628 | (2) |
|
|
|
628 | (1) |
|
|
|
629 | (1) |
|
Bodysuit Design Variations |
|
|
630 | (5) |
|
Bodysuit with Scooped Neck and Cutouts |
|
|
630 | (1) |
|
Bodysuit with High-Necked Halter Top |
|
|
631 | (2) |
|
|
|
633 | (1) |
|
|
|
634 | (1) |
|
|
|
634 | (1) |
|
|
|
635 | (3) |
|
Method for Correcting Pattern to Improve Fit |
|
|
638 | (8) |
|
|
|
639 | (1) |
|
Color-Block Design for Leotard |
|
|
639 | (2) |
|
Leotard with Raglan Sleeve |
|
|
641 | (2) |
|
|
|
643 | (3) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
646 | (1) |
|
|
|
647 | (9) |
|
|
|
647 | (2) |
|
|
|
649 | (1) |
|
|
|
650 | (2) |
|
|
|
652 | (2) |
|
|
|
654 | (1) |
|
|
|
655 | (1) |
|
|
|
656 | (1) |
|
Bikini Based on Maillot or Leotard Foundation |
|
|
656 | (1) |
|
Bikini Based on Front Skirt Foundation |
|
|
656 | (1) |
|
|
|
657 | (1) |
|
|
|
657 | (1) |
|
|
|
658 | (8) |
|
|
|
658 | (1) |
|
|
|
659 | (1) |
|
Bra Top with Horizontal Styleline |
|
|
660 | (1) |
|
Bra Tops for Bikini Bottoms |
|
|
661 | (3) |
|
|
|
664 | (1) |
|
|
|
665 | (1) |
|
Little-Boy Legline Foundation |
|
|
666 | (3) |
|
Little-Boy Legline Variations |
|
|
667 | (1) |
|
|
|
667 | (2) |
|
Full-Figure Swim Foundation |
|
|
669 | (3) |
|
|
|
669 | (1) |
|
Swimsuit with Skirt Front |
|
|
670 | (2) |
|
Supplies and Special Information |
|
|
672 | (7) |
|
|
|
672 | (1) |
|
Finishing Crotch and Shoulder |
|
|
673 | (1) |
|
|
|
674 | (2) |
|
Attaching Neck Straps to Swimsuit |
|
|
676 | (2) |
|
Introduction to Childrenswear |
|
|
|
|
|
678 | (1) |
|
Color and Functional Clothing |
|
|
678 | (1) |
|
|
|
678 | (1) |
|
|
|
678 | (1) |
|
|
|
678 | (1) |
|
Size Categories for Childrenswear |
|
|
679 | (1) |
|
|
|
679 | (1) |
|
|
|
680 | (1) |
|
|
|
680 | (4) |
|
Children's Fashion References |
|
|
680 | (4) |
|
Drafting the Basic Pattern Set (Measurement Taking and Standard Measurement Charts) |
|
|
|
Measuring the Form---Children, 3 to 6X, Girls, 7 to 14; and Boys, 7 to 14 |
|
|
684 | (3) |
|
|
|
684 | (1) |
|
|
|
684 | (1) |
|
Torso Circumference Measurements |
|
|
684 | (1) |
|
|
|
685 | (1) |
|
|
|
685 | (1) |
|
|
|
686 | (1) |
|
|
|
686 | (1) |
|
Standard Measurement Chart for Boys and Girls |
|
|
687 | (1) |
|
Standard Measurement Chart for Girls |
|
|
688 | (1) |
|
|
|
689 | (2) |
|
The Basic Pattern for Boyswear |
|
|
689 | (1) |
|
|
|
689 | (1) |
|
|
|
690 | (1) |
|
Darts and Dart Equivalents |
|
|
691 | (5) |
|
|
|
692 | (1) |
|
|
|
693 | (3) |
|
Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts |
|
|
|
|
|
696 | (1) |
|
|
|
696 | (1) |
|
|
|
696 | (1) |
|
|
|
696 | (1) |
|
|
|
696 | (1) |
|
|
|
696 | (1) |
|
Dartless Sleeve Foundation |
|
|
697 | (1) |
|
|
|
697 | (1) |
|
|
|
698 | (1) |
|
|
|
698 | (1) |
|
|
|
698 | (1) |
|
|
|
698 | (1) |
|
|
|
698 | (1) |
|
|
|
699 | (3) |
|
|
|
699 | (1) |
|
Ruffled Sleeve---Design 2 |
|
|
700 | (1) |
|
|
|
700 | (1) |
|
Baby Puff Sleeve---Design 4 |
|
|
700 | (1) |
|
|
|
701 | (1) |
|
|
|
702 | (6) |
|
|
|
702 | (1) |
|
|
|
702 | (1) |
|
|
|
702 | (1) |
|
|
|
702 | (1) |
|
|
|
702 | (1) |
|
|
|
703 | (1) |
|
Gathered Skirt with Stylized Waist Band |
|
|
704 | (1) |
|
|
|
705 | (3) |
|
|
|
|
The Shift Foundation---3 to 6X and 7 to 14 |
|
|
708 | (6) |
|
|
|
708 | (1) |
|
|
|
709 | (1) |
|
|
|
709 | (2) |
|
|
|
711 | (1) |
|
|
|
712 | (2) |
|
|
|
714 | (1) |
|
|
|
714 | (1) |
|
|
|
715 | (5) |
|
|
|
715 | (1) |
|
|
|
716 | (1) |
|
|
|
717 | (1) |
|
|
|
717 | (3) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
720 | (2) |
|
|
|
720 | (2) |
|
Basic Shirt and Sleeve Foundation |
|
|
722 | (2) |
|
|
|
722 | (2) |
|
|
|
724 | (2) |
|
|
|
724 | (2) |
|
Oversized Shirt and Sleeve |
|
|
726 | (2) |
|
|
|
726 | (1) |
|
Oversized Shirt Sleeve Draft |
|
|
727 | (1) |
|
Knit Foundation and Sleeve |
|
|
728 | (4) |
|
|
|
728 | (1) |
|
|
|
729 | (1) |
|
|
|
730 | (1) |
|
|
|
731 | (1) |
|
|
|
732 | (3) |
|
|
|
732 | (3) |
|
|
|
735 | (5) |
|
|
|
735 | (1) |
|
|
|
735 | (1) |
|
Jacket with Notched Collar |
|
|
736 | (2) |
|
|
|
738 | (1) |
|
|
|
739 | (1) |
|
Sleeve and Coat Foundation |
|
|
740 | (1) |
|
|
|
740 | (1) |
|
|
|
740 | (1) |
|
|
|
741 | (5) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
746 | (1) |
|
|
|
746 | (2) |
|
|
|
746 | (2) |
|
|
|
748 | (1) |
|
|
|
748 | (1) |
|
|
|
749 | (2) |
|
|
|
749 | (2) |
|
|
|
751 | (2) |
|
|
|
751 | (1) |
|
Waist Band Controls the Waist |
|
|
751 | (1) |
|
Elastic Controls the Waist |
|
|
751 | (1) |
|
Partial Waist Band and Elastic |
|
|
752 | (1) |
|
|
|
753 | (1) |
|
|
|
753 | (1) |
|
|
|
754 | (5) |
|
|
|
755 | (2) |
|
|
|
757 | (2) |
|
Guideline Marking for Pant Derivatives |
|
|
759 | (3) |
|
|
|
759 | (1) |
|
|
|
760 | (1) |
|
|
|
761 | (1) |
|
|
|
761 | (1) |
|
|
|
762 | (6) |
|
|
|
763 | (1) |
|
|
|
764 | (1) |
|
|
|
764 | (1) |
|
|
|
765 | (1) |
|
|
|
766 | (2) |
|
Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear |
|
|
|
|
|
768 | (2) |
|
|
|
769 | (1) |
|
|
|
770 | (1) |
|
|
|
770 | (1) |
|
|
|
770 | (1) |
|
|
|
771 | (1) |
|
|
|
771 | (1) |
|
|
|
771 | (1) |
|
|
|
772 | (1) |
|
|
|
772 | (1) |
|
|
|
773 | (1) |
|
|
|
774 | (1) |
|
|
|
774 | (1) |
|
|
|
775 | (2) |
|
|
|
775 | (2) |
| Appendix |
|
777 | (19) |
| Bibliographic Credits |
|
796 | (1) |
| Index |
|
797 | (13) |
| Guide to Reading Ruler Increments |
|
810 | |
