Preface |
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xiii | |
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3 | (34) |
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3 | (1) |
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4 | (1) |
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4 | (1) |
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5 | (1) |
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5 | (2) |
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7 | (1) |
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Is There Anything in Your Storage Area? |
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7 | (1) |
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7 | (1) |
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But What Do the Parameters Do? |
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8 | (1) |
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Parameters: P-User-Environment |
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8 | (2) |
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Options Available for P-User-Environment |
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10 | (1) |
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11 | (1) |
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11 | (1) |
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12 | (1) |
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Creating New Files in AccuMark Explorer |
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13 | (1) |
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14 | (1) |
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15 | (2) |
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17 | (1) |
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Copying Data Files to Multiple Storage Areas |
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18 | (2) |
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20 | (1) |
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Moving Data Files to Multiple Storage Areas |
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21 | (2) |
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23 | (1) |
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24 | (1) |
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Deleting Data Files from Multiple Storage Areas |
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25 | (1) |
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26 | (1) |
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Renaming Data Files in Multiple Storage Areas |
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27 | (2) |
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29 | (4) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Create a Storage Area |
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33 | (4) |
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34 | (1) |
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34 | (1) |
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34 | (3) |
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2 AccuMark Pattern Design Basics |
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37 | (28) |
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37 | (1) |
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38 | (1) |
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The World of Pattern Design |
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38 | (1) |
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Opening the Pattern Design Software |
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38 | (1) |
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Open Pattern Design from AccuMark Explorer |
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39 | (1) |
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... Or Single-Click Right to Open Pattern Design from AccuMark Explorer |
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39 | (1) |
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40 | (1) |
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41 | (1) |
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41 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 2.1 File/Open |
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43 | (2) |
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Where Is the Pattern Data Stored? |
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45 | (2) |
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47 | (1) |
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47 | (1) |
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The Pattern Design Screen |
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47 | (2) |
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49 | (1) |
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50 | (1) |
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50 | (1) |
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51 | (1) |
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52 | (1) |
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52 | (1) |
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53 | (12) |
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62 | (1) |
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62 | (1) |
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62 | (3) |
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65 | (20) |
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65 | (1) |
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66 | (1) |
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66 | (1) |
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66 | (1) |
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67 | (2) |
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69 | (1) |
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69 | (1) |
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70 | (2) |
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Pieces Cut Cross Grain or on the Bias |
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72 | (1) |
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72 | (1) |
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Creating Model Options/Variations to the Style |
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73 | (2) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Create a Model for Style 9000 |
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75 | (1) |
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76 | (1) |
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Optional Marking Functionality (Available in the Model File Editor) |
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77 | (2) |
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79 | (2) |
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Example of a Completed Model File Editor |
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81 | (1) |
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Example of a Completed Model File Editor with Model Options |
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81 | (4) |
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82 | (1) |
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83 | (1) |
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83 | (2) |
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85 | (34) |
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85 | (1) |
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86 | (1) |
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86 | (1) |
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86 | (9) |
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Guided Exercise 4.1 Copy a Model/Create a New Style |
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89 | (6) |
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95 | (1) |
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95 | (1) |
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95 | (5) |
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Guided Exercise 4.2 Square Sofa Pillows |
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98 | (2) |
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100 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 4.3 Round Sofa Pillows |
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102 | (2) |
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104 | (8) |
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Guided Exercise 4.4 Oval Sofa Pillows |
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106 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 4.5 Create a Model in Pattern Design |
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108 | (4) |
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The Create Piece Menu and Models |
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112 | (3) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Create a Model in Pattern Design |
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115 | (4) |
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116 | (1) |
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116 | (1) |
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116 | (3) |
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119 | (50) |
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119 | (1) |
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120 | (1) |
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120 | (1) |
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120 | (9) |
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Guided Exercise 5.1 Shirt Pockets |
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123 | (3) |
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Guided Exercise 5.2 Waistbands |
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126 | (3) |
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129 | (8) |
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Guided Exercise 5.3 Circle Skirts |
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130 | (3) |
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Guided Exercise 5.4 Sleeve Ruffles |
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133 | (4) |
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137 | (1) |
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138 | (1) |
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139 | (1) |
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140 | (2) |
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142 | (1) |
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143 | (2) |
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145 | (1) |
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145 | (7) |
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Guided Exercise 5.5 Front Facings |
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147 | (5) |
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152 | (12) |
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Guided Exercise 5.6 Turnback Facings |
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156 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 5.7 Arm Facings and Neck Facings |
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160 | (4) |
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164 | (1) |
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164 | (1) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Create Dress Blocks |
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165 | (4) |
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166 | (1) |
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166 | (1) |
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166 | (3) |
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169 | (28) |
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170 | (1) |
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170 | (1) |
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170 | (1) |
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What's the Difference between a Digitizer and a Silhouette? |
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171 | (1) |
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171 | (1) |
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171 | (3) |
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174 | (1) |
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174 | (1) |
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175 | (1) |
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175 | (1) |
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176 | (1) |
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176 | (1) |
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177 | (1) |
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Digitizing a Closed Piece |
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178 | (2) |
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180 | (1) |
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Digitizing a Mirrored Piece |
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180 | (2) |
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182 | (1) |
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Verify the Options for Digitized Data |
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182 | (1) |
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Verify the Digitized Data |
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183 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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Verify the Piece in Pattern Design |
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184 | (1) |
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185 | (1) |
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Editing the Digitized Data |
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186 | (2) |
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Example of Digitized Data |
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188 | (2) |
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To View the Digitizing Process |
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190 | (1) |
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Digitizing with Grade Rules |
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191 | (1) |
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Digitizing a Closed Piece |
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192 | (1) |
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Digitizing a Mirrored Piece |
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192 | (1) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Digitize a Pattern |
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193 | (4) |
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194 | (1) |
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194 | (1) |
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194 | (3) |
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197 | (26) |
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197 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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199 | (1) |
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What's the Difference between a Mouse and a Stylus Pen? |
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200 | (1) |
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200 | (1) |
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201 | (1) |
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201 | (1) |
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202 | (1) |
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202 | (1) |
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202 | (1) |
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203 | (1) |
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203 | (1) |
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To Add a Second Drill Mark |
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203 | (1) |
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203 | (1) |
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204 | (1) |
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205 | (1) |
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206 | (1) |
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207 | (1) |
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208 | (1) |
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209 | (1) |
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210 | (1) |
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210 | (9) |
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Guided Exercise 7.1 Input a Pattern |
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211 | (7) |
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Guided Exercise 7.2 Knockoffs |
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218 | (1) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Draft/Line/Curve |
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219 | (4) |
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220 | (1) |
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220 | (1) |
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220 | (3) |
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223 | (28) |
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223 | (1) |
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224 | (1) |
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224 | (1) |
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224 | (1) |
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225 | (1) |
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226 | (1) |
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Piece Annotation---Default or Special? |
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226 | (2) |
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Creating a Piece Annotation File |
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228 | (2) |
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230 | (1) |
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Worksheet for Internal Labels |
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231 | (4) |
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235 | (1) |
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P-Piece-Plot Parameter Table |
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236 | (1) |
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Updating the P-Piece-Plot Parameter Table |
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237 | (1) |
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238 | (2) |
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240 | (2) |
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242 | (1) |
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Deleting Selective Plot Queue Items |
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243 | (1) |
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Plotting from Pattern Design |
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244 | (1) |
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Pattern Design Preferences |
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244 | (1) |
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Plotting from Pattern Design |
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245 | (1) |
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Example of a Completed Annotation File |
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246 | (1) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Plot Mini Pieces for Style 9000 |
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247 | (4) |
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248 | (1) |
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248 | (1) |
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248 | (3) |
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251 | (20) |
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251 | (1) |
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252 | (1) |
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252 | (1) |
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253 | |
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2 | (252) |
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254 | (3) |
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Perimeter 2 Pt/Measure Along Piece |
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257 | (1) |
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Distance to Notch/Measure Along Piece |
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258 | (1) |
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Distance 2 Pt/Measure Straight |
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258 | (1) |
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Distance 2 Pt/Measure Finished |
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259 | (1) |
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260 | (1) |
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260 | (1) |
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261 | (1) |
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262 | (1) |
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262 | (1) |
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262 | (6) |
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Guided Exercise 9.1 Measure a Pattern |
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263 | (5) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Measure Your Pattern |
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268 | (3) |
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269 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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269 | (2) |
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271 | (46) |
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271 | (1) |
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272 | (1) |
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273 | (1) |
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273 | (1) |
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274 | (1) |
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275 | (1) |
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275 | (1) |
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276 | (1) |
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276 | (1) |
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277 | (1) |
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277 | (1) |
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277 | (1) |
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278 | (1) |
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279 | (1) |
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280 | (2) |
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282 | (6) |
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Guided Exercise 10.1 Drill Marks |
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284 | (4) |
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288 | (1) |
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288 | (1) |
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289 | (1) |
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290 | (1) |
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290 | (1) |
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291 | (1) |
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292 | (1) |
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293 | (1) |
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293 | (2) |
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295 | (1) |
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296 | (1) |
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296 | (1) |
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297 | (1) |
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298 | (1) |
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299 | (1) |
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300 | (3) |
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303 | (10) |
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Guided Exercise 10.2 Mini Skirt |
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305 | (3) |
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Guided Exercise 10.3 Petite Pants |
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308 | (5) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Create a Cap Sleeve T-Shirt |
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313 | (4) |
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314 | (1) |
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314 | (1) |
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314 | (3) |
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11 Editing Point Attributes and Internal Line Labels |
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317 | (32) |
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317 | (1) |
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318 | (1) |
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318 | (2) |
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320 | (1) |
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321 | (1) |
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D1: Attribute L -- Lift and Plunge |
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321 | (1) |
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D2: Attribute K -- Alternate Start Point |
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322 | (1) |
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D3: Attribute Z -- Stacking Point |
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323 | (1) |
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324 | (1) |
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D4: Attribute A -- Grade Point Averaging |
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324 | (1) |
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D5: Attribute X -- Fixed Next Grade Point |
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324 | (1) |
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D6: Attribute P -- Fixed Prev Grade Point |
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324 | (3) |
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D7: Attribute F -- Facing Point |
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327 | (1) |
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D8: Attribute S -- Smoothing Point |
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328 | (1) |
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D9: Attribute N -- Non-Smoothing Point |
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328 | (1) |
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Segment Blocking/Buffering |
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329 | (1) |
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Attribute B -- Start of Segment |
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329 | (1) |
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Attribute Q -- End of Segment |
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329 | (1) |
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Attribute E -- Entry Point |
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330 | (1) |
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331 | (1) |
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332 | (1) |
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Creating Internal Labels in Pattern Design |
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333 | (1) |
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Label A: 2 Point Annotation |
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333 | (1) |
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Label B: 3 Point Annotation |
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334 | (1) |
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335 | (1) |
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Label H: Internal Cutouts |
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336 | (1) |
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337 | (1) |
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337 | (1) |
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338 | (1) |
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339 | (6) |
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Guided Exercise 11.1 Establish a Grade Line and a Grain Line |
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340 | (3) |
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Guided Exercise 11.2 Remove Grading |
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343 | (2) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Create Internal Line Labels |
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345 | (4) |
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346 | (1) |
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346 | (1) |
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346 | (3) |
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349 | (56) |
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349 | (1) |
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350 | (1) |
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350 | (1) |
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351 | (1) |
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351 | (1) |
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352 | (1) |
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352 | (1) |
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353 | (1) |
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353 | (1) |
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353 | (1) |
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Digitized---Right Mouse Button Options Available |
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354 | (1) |
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354 | (2) |
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356 | (20) |
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Guided Exercise 12.1 Skirt Pockets |
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357 | (7) |
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Guided Exercise 12.2 Front Bodice Draft |
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364 | (12) |
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376 | (1) |
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377 | (1) |
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377 | (1) |
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378 | (1) |
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379 | (1) |
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379 | (1) |
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380 | (1) |
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380 | (1) |
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381 | (1) |
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381 | (9) |
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Guided Exercise 12.3 Bell-Bottoms |
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383 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 12.4 Applique Placement |
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387 | (3) |
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390 | (10) |
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Guided Exercise 12.5 Fisheye Darts |
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393 | (7) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Draft a Back Bodice |
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400 | (2) |
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402 | (1) |
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402 | (1) |
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402 | (3) |
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402 | (3) |
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405 | (22) |
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405 | (1) |
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406 | (1) |
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406 | (1) |
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406 | (1) |
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407 | (1) |
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407 | (1) |
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408 | (1) |
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409 | (1) |
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410 | (1) |
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411 | (1) |
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411 | (3) |
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414 | (1) |
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415 | (9) |
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Guided Exercise 13.1 Scallops |
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417 | (7) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Finish the Scallops Project |
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424 | (3) |
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425 | (1) |
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425 | (1) |
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425 | (2) |
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427 | (36) |
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427 | (1) |
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428 | (1) |
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428 | (1) |
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428 | (1) |
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429 | (1) |
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Unclipped Perimeter (MK/V8) |
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430 | (2) |
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432 | (7) |
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Guided Exercise 14.1 Balance a Sleeve |
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433 | (3) |
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Guided Exercise 14.2 Shape the Side Seam |
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436 | (3) |
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439 | (20) |
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Guided Exercise 14.3 Back Yokes |
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454 | (5) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Palazzo Pants |
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459 | (4) |
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460 | (1) |
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460 | (1) |
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460 | (3) |
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463 | (32) |
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463 | (1) |
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464 | (3) |
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467 | (1) |
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467 | (1) |
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468 | (1) |
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469 | (1) |
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470 | (1) |
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471 | (1) |
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472 | (1) |
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473 | (1) |
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474 | (1) |
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475 | (1) |
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476 | (1) |
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477 | (1) |
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477 | (1) |
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478 | (1) |
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479 | (1) |
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480 | (1) |
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480 | (1) |
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481 | (5) |
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Guided Exercise 15.1 Intersecting Darts |
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483 | (3) |
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486 | (1) |
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486 | (1) |
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487 | (1) |
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487 | (1) |
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487 | (1) |
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488 | (1) |
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489 | (1) |
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489 | (1) |
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490 | (1) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Waistband Facing |
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491 | (1) |
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492 | (1) |
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492 | (1) |
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492 | (3) |
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492 | (3) |
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495 | (40) |
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495 | (1) |
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496 | (1) |
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496 | (1) |
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497 | (1) |
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Rules for Creating Pleats Using the Computer |
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497 | (1) |
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Understanding Pleat Terminology |
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497 | (1) |
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498 | (2) |
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500 | (1) |
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501 | (2) |
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503 | (2) |
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505 | (6) |
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Guided Exercise 16.1 Pin Tucks |
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507 | (4) |
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511 | (1) |
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511 | (1) |
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511 | (2) |
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513 | (1) |
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514 | (1) |
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515 | (2) |
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517 | (1) |
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518 | (1) |
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519 | (2) |
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521 | (10) |
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Guided Exercise 16.2 Asymmetric Maillot |
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523 | (8) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: Create the Asymmetric Maillot Back |
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531 | (1) |
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532 | (1) |
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532 | (1) |
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532 | (3) |
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532 | (3) |
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535 | (52) |
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535 | (1) |
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536 | (1) |
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536 | (1) |
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536 | (1) |
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Delete Piece from Work Area |
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537 | (1) |
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538 | (1) |
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539 | (1) |
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540 | (2) |
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542 | (1) |
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543 | (1) |
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544 | (1) |
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544 | (1) |
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545 | (2) |
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547 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 17.1 Shrink Stretch |
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548 | (3) |
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551 | (1) |
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551 | (1) |
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552 | (1) |
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553 | (2) |
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555 | (11) |
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Guided Exercise 17.2 Walk the Piece and Add Notches |
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557 | (5) |
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Guided Exercise 17.3 Walk the Piece and Make Corrections |
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562 | (4) |
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566 | (1) |
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566 | (1) |
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567 | (7) |
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Guided Exercise 17.4 Define the Original Position |
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568 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 17.5 Define Multiple Positions |
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572 | (2) |
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574 | (1) |
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574 | (1) |
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575 | (1) |
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576 | (1) |
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577 | (1) |
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578 | (2) |
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580 | (1) |
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581 | (1) |
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582 | (1) |
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582 | (1) |
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|
582 | (1) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own: The Ski Jacket |
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583 | (4) |
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584 | (1) |
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584 | (1) |
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584 | (3) |
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587 | (28) |
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587 | (1) |
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588 | (1) |
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589 | (1) |
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590 | (1) |
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591 | (1) |
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592 | (1) |
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593 | (1) |
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594 | (1) |
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Grading Measurements: Manual or Computer |
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|
595 | (1) |
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596 | (1) |
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|
597 | (1) |
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|
598 | (1) |
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How to Find the Grading Axis |
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599 | (1) |
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600 | (4) |
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604 | (1) |
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605 | (1) |
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606 | (1) |
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|
606 | (3) |
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Time to Practice on Your Own |
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609 | (1) |
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610 | (1) |
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610 | (1) |
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611 | (1) |
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612 | (1) |
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612 | (1) |
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612 | (3) |
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613 | (2) |
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615 | (58) |
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|
615 | (1) |
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616 | (13) |
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Guided Exercise 19.1 Assign the Grade Rule Table |
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618 | (1) |
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Guided Exercise 19.2 Assign Grade Rules |
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|
619 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.3 Display the Grade |
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|
621 | (1) |
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Guided Exercise 19.4 Copy the Grade Rules from One Pattern to the Next |
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|
622 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.5 Apply Grading by Typing in X and Y Measurements |
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|
624 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.6 Edit or Manipulate the Grade |
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|
626 | (3) |
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|
629 | (39) |
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Guided Exercise 19.7 Export Grade Rules into the Grade Rule Library |
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|
630 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 19.8 Create Offset Grading |
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|
634 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.9 Grade Two or More Patterns at the Same Time |
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|
636 | (1) |
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Guided Exercise 19.10 Make Sure the Graded Pieces Will Sew |
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|
637 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.11 Stack the Grading at a Different Point |
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|
639 | (1) |
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Guided Exercise 19.12 Resize the Pattern |
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|
640 | (3) |
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Guided Exercise 19.13 Walk the Notch In |
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|
643 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.14 Nest Patterns into the Computer |
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|
645 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 19.15 Apply Grading to a Piece with Seam Allowance |
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|
649 | (4) |
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Guided Exercise 19.16 Check Graded Notches |
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|
653 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.17 Create Multiple Grading Axes |
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|
655 | (3) |
|
Guided Exercise 19.18 Establish a Grading Movement |
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|
658 | (1) |
|
Guided Exercise 19.19 Copy the X or Y Grading Movement |
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|
659 | (2) |
|
Guided Exercise 19.20 Flip the X or Y Grading Movement |
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|
661 | (1) |
|
Guided Exercise 19.21 Copy the Grade from a Restacked Pattern |
|
|
662 | (1) |
|
Guided Exercise 19.22 Copy the Graded Line Length from One Pattern to the Next |
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|
663 | (2) |
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Guided Exercise 19.23 Maintain the Same Angle for All Graded Sizes |
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|
665 | (2) |
|
Guided Exercise 19.24 Maintain Parallel Lines for All Graded Sizes |
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|
667 | (1) |
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|
668 | (5) |
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|
670 | (1) |
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|
670 | (1) |
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|
670 | (3) |
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|
673 | (46) |
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|
673 | (1) |
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|
674 | (1) |
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|
674 | (1) |
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|
674 | (1) |
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|
675 | (1) |
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|
675 | (1) |
|
Intersection Notch (MK/V8) |
|
|
676 | (1) |
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|
677 | (8) |
|
Guided Exercise 20.1 Manage Notches |
|
|
679 | (3) |
|
Guided Exercise 20.2 Adjust Notches |
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|
682 | (3) |
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|
685 | (1) |
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|
685 | (1) |
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|
686 | (1) |
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|
686 | (1) |
|
Change Keep Position (V8) |
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|
687 | (1) |
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|
688 | (1) |
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|
689 | (1) |
|
Add Group on Line Dist (V8) |
|
|
690 | (1) |
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|
690 | (1) |
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|
691 | (2) |
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|
693 | (1) |
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|
694 | (9) |
|
Guided Exercise 20.3 How to Apply Seam Allowance to an Old Production Pattern |
|
|
696 | (4) |
|
Guided Exercise 20.4 How to Apply Seam Allowances to a Pattern Created from a Basic Block |
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|
700 | (3) |
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|
703 | (1) |
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|
704 | (1) |
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|
704 | (1) |
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|
705 | (1) |
|
|
706 | (1) |
|
Perpendicular Step Corner |
|
|
707 | (1) |
|
|
708 | (1) |
|
Match Squared Corner (AM) |
|
|
709 | (10) |
|
Guided Exercise 20.5 How to Apply Seam Allowance to a Pattern with Clipped Corners |
|
|
710 | (6) |
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|
716 | (1) |
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|
716 | (1) |
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|
716 | (3) |
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|
719 | (25) |
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|
719 | (1) |
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|
720 | (1) |
|
|
720 | (1) |
|
Fill in the Advanced Search Information |
|
|
721 | (1) |
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|
722 | (1) |
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|
722 | (1) |
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|
723 | (2) |
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|
725 | (1) |
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|
726 | (1) |
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|
726 | (2) |
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|
728 | (1) |
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|
729 | (1) |
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|
729 | (1) |
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|
730 | (1) |
|
Create the Costing Marker |
|
|
731 | (1) |
|
AccuMark Data Files Needed to Process a Costing Marker |
|
|
732 | (1) |
|
|
733 | (1) |
|
|
733 | (1) |
|
|
734 | (1) |
|
Open the Measurement Chart |
|
|
735 | (1) |
|
Fill in the Measurement Chart |
|
|
736 | (1) |
|
|
737 | (1) |
|
|
738 | (2) |
|
Time to Practice on Your Own: Everyday Tasks |
|
|
740 | (4) |
|
|
741 | (1) |
|
|
741 | (1) |
|
|
741 | (3) |
|
|
|
|
744 | (2) |
|
Pattern Design Screen Layout |
|
|
746 | (4) |
|
Pattern Design Preferences and Options |
|
|
750 | (10) |
|
Pattern Design Seam Properties |
|
|
760 | (3) |
Glossary |
|
763 | (4) |
Bibliography |
|
767 | (2) |
Index |
|
769 | |