Preface |
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xvii | |
Author Biography |
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xxi | |
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Chapter 1 Introduction to Textile Printing |
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1 | (20) |
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1.1 Textiles -- Historical Perspective |
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1 | (2) |
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3 | (3) |
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6 | (1) |
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1.4 Textile Dyeing and Printing |
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6 | (1) |
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1.5 Textile Printing in Historical Perspective |
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7 | (2) |
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1.6 Preparation of Materials |
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9 | (1) |
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1.7 Methods and Styles of Printing |
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9 | (10) |
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1.7.1 Methods of Printing |
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9 | (1) |
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1.7.1.1 Hand Block Printing |
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10 | (1) |
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11 | (1) |
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12 | (1) |
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12 | (1) |
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1.7.2 Manual or Hand Screen Printing |
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13 | (1) |
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14 | (1) |
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1.7.4 Rotary Screen Printing Machine |
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15 | (1) |
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1.7.4.1 Transfer Printing |
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16 | (1) |
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16 | (1) |
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17 | (2) |
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19 | (2) |
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Chapter 2 Preparatory Processes Before Printing |
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21 | (34) |
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21 | (1) |
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2.2 Aims of Preparatory Processes |
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22 | (1) |
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2.3 Preparatory Processes |
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23 | (1) |
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2.4 Preparation of Cotton Materials |
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24 | (13) |
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2.4.1 Inspection and Mending |
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24 | (1) |
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2.4.2 Shearing and Cropping |
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25 | (2) |
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27 | (5) |
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32 | (3) |
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35 | (1) |
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36 | (1) |
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36 | (1) |
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2.4.8 Scouring of Synthetic Fibers |
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36 | (1) |
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37 | (1) |
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37 | (1) |
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37 | (10) |
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2.5.1 Reductive Bleaching Agents |
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39 | (1) |
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2.5.2 Oxidative Bleaching Agents |
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39 | (1) |
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2.5.2.1 Peroxide Bleaching |
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40 | (1) |
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2.5.2.2 Strength of Hydrogen Peroxide |
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41 | (1) |
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41 | (4) |
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2.5.2.4 Continuous Process |
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45 | (1) |
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2.5.2.5 Enzymatic Processes |
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46 | (1) |
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2.6 Combined Scouring and Bleaching of Cotton |
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47 | (1) |
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2.7 Combined Preparatory Processes |
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48 | (1) |
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2.8 Effects of Pretreatment on Printing |
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48 | (1) |
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2.9 Preparation of Protein Fibers |
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48 | (2) |
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2.10 Preparation of Synthetic Materials |
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50 | (1) |
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51 | (4) |
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Chapter 3 Dyes and Auxiliaries for Textile Printing |
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55 | (60) |
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55 | (1) |
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3.2 Chemical Classification of Colorants |
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56 | (25) |
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3.2.1 Classification According to the Chemical Constitution |
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57 | (1) |
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3.2.2 Classification According to the Method of Application |
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58 | (1) |
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59 | (1) |
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3.2.2.2 Acid Dyes (Including Metal-Complex Acid Dyes) |
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59 | (4) |
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3.2.2.3 Basic or Cationic Dyes |
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63 | (1) |
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64 | (1) |
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65 | (1) |
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66 | (1) |
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3.2.2.7 Diazoamino Compounds |
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66 | (1) |
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66 | (1) |
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67 | (1) |
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3.2.2.10 Solubilized Vat Dyes |
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68 | (1) |
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68 | (1) |
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3.2.2.12 Nucleophile Substitution |
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69 | (1) |
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3.2.2.13 Nucleophilic Addition |
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70 | (3) |
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73 | (4) |
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3.2.2.15 Azo Disperse Dyes |
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77 | (1) |
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3.2.2.16 Nitrodiphenylamine Disperse Dyes |
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77 | (1) |
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3.2.2.17 Anthraquinone Disperse Dyes |
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77 | (1) |
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3.2.2.18 Methine (Styryl) Disperse Dyes |
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78 | (1) |
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3.2.2.19 Heterocyclic Disperse Dyes |
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78 | (1) |
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79 | (1) |
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80 | (1) |
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3.2.2.22 Cellulosic (Cotton and Viscose) |
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80 | (1) |
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3.2.2.23 Cellulosic (Jute) |
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80 | (1) |
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3.2.2.24 Protein (Wool, Silk, Nylon) |
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81 | (1) |
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3.2.2.25 Synthetic Fibers (Polyester, Cellulose Acetate, and, Less Commonly, Nylon) |
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81 | (1) |
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3.2.2.26 Other Synthetic Fibers (Acrylic and Modacrylic) |
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81 | (1) |
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3.3 Color Fastness Properties |
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81 | (5) |
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81 | (2) |
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83 | (2) |
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85 | (1) |
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3.3.4 Perspiration Fastness |
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85 | (1) |
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3.3.5 Fastness to Peroxide Bleaching |
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85 | (1) |
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3.3.6 Fastness to Dry Heat |
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85 | (1) |
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86 | (1) |
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3.5 Selection of Dyes for Printing |
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86 | (1) |
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3.5.1 Advantages of Pigment Printing |
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87 | (1) |
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87 | (17) |
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88 | (2) |
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3.6.1.1 Natural Thickeners |
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90 | (1) |
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3.6.1.2 Modified Natural Thickeners |
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90 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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3.6.1.4 Gum Tragacanth or Gum Dragon |
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91 | (1) |
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3.6.1.5 Gum Senegal or Gum Arabic |
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91 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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91 | (1) |
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92 | (1) |
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3.6.1.9 Gum from Neem/Babul/Moringa |
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93 | (1) |
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3.6.1.10 Acacia Nilotica Gum |
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93 | (1) |
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3.6.1.11 Moringa Oleifera Gum |
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93 | (1) |
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3.6.1.12 Modified Starches |
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94 | (1) |
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3.6.1.13 Cellulose Derivatives |
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94 | (1) |
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3.6.1.14 Methyl Cellulose |
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94 | (1) |
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3.6.1.15 Sodium Carboxy Methyl Cellulose (CMC) |
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94 | (1) |
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94 | (1) |
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3.6.1.17 Emulsion Thickeners |
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94 | (2) |
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3.6.1.18 Synthetic Thickeners |
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96 | (1) |
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3.6.1.19 Non-Ionic Thickeners |
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97 | (1) |
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3.6.1.20 Anionic Thickener |
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97 | (1) |
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3.6.1.21 Dispersed Liquid Thickeners |
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97 | (1) |
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3.6.1.22 Thickeners for Printing Reactive Dyes |
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98 | (1) |
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99 | (1) |
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100 | (1) |
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100 | (1) |
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3.6.5 Fixation Accelerators |
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100 | (1) |
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100 | (1) |
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3.6.7 Oxidizing and Reducing Agents |
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101 | (1) |
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102 | (1) |
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3.6.9 Carriers and Swelling Agents |
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103 | (1) |
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3.6.10 After-Washing Agents |
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104 | (1) |
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104 | (1) |
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3.7 Environmental Aspects |
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104 | (7) |
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106 | (1) |
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106 | (1) |
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3.7.3 Traditional (Air Dry) Ink |
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106 | (1) |
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107 | (1) |
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108 | (3) |
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111 | (4) |
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Chapter 4 Various Means of Printing Textiles |
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115 | (32) |
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115 | (1) |
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116 | (1) |
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4.2 Direct Style of Printing |
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116 | (1) |
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4.3 Discharge Style of Printing |
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117 | (3) |
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118 | (1) |
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118 | (2) |
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120 | (3) |
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121 | (1) |
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121 | (2) |
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123 | (1) |
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4.6 Flock Style of Printing |
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123 | (5) |
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4.6.1 Methods of Flock Application |
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124 | (1) |
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4.6.1.1 Spraying by Compressed Air |
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124 | (1) |
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125 | (1) |
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4.6.1.3 The Electrostatic Method |
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125 | (1) |
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125 | (1) |
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126 | (1) |
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4.6.1.6 Electrostatic System |
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127 | (1) |
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127 | (1) |
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4.7 Burn-Out or Devore Style of Printing |
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128 | (1) |
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4.8 Crepon or Crimp Style of Printing |
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129 | (1) |
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4.9 Emboss Style of Printing |
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129 | (1) |
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129 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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4.9.3 Single Level Emboss |
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130 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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130 | (1) |
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130 | (9) |
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133 | (1) |
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4.10.2 Sublimation Transfer Printing |
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133 | (1) |
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4.10.3 Wet Transfer Printing Process |
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133 | (1) |
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134 | (1) |
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134 | (1) |
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4.10.6 Merits/Drawbacks of Sublimation Transfer Printing |
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135 | (1) |
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4.10.7 Selection of Dyes for Transfer Printing |
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136 | (1) |
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4.10.8 Selection of Paper |
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137 | (1) |
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4.10.9 Transfer Paper Printing |
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137 | (1) |
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4.10.10 Print Paste for Paper Printing |
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137 | (1) |
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4.10.11 Transfer Printing on Nylon |
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138 | (1) |
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4.10.12 Transfer Printing on Polyester |
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138 | (1) |
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4.10.13 Transfer Printing on Acrylic |
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138 | (1) |
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4.10.14 Cotton and Cotton/PE Blends |
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138 | (1) |
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4.11 Digital Printing Style |
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139 | (1) |
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140 | (4) |
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4.12.1 Knit-Deknit Method |
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141 | (1) |
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4.12.2 Space Dyeing of Warp |
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141 | (1) |
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4.12.3 Space Dyeing of Hanks |
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142 | (1) |
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4.12.4 Space Dyeing on Wound Packages |
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143 | (1) |
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4.12.5 Space Dyeing of Tufted Carpets, Knitted and Woven Fabrics |
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143 | (1) |
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144 | (3) |
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Chapter 5 Direct, Discharge and Resist Styles of Printing |
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147 | (58) |
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147 | (1) |
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5.2 Direct Style of Printing of Cellulosic Materials |
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148 | (29) |
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5.2.1 Printing with Pigment Colors |
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149 | (1) |
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150 | (1) |
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150 | (2) |
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152 | (2) |
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154 | (1) |
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155 | (2) |
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157 | (1) |
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5.2.1.7 White Pigment Printing (Khadi Printing) |
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157 | (1) |
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157 | (1) |
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5.2.1.9 Mica (Pearl) Printing |
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157 | (1) |
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5.2.1.10 Print Paste Recipe |
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158 | (1) |
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5.2.1.11 Rubber/Puff/Foam/Emboss Printing |
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158 | (1) |
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5.2.1.12 Glitter Printing |
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159 | (1) |
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5.2.1.13 Metal Powder Printing |
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160 | (1) |
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160 | (1) |
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5.2.2 Printing with Reactive Dyes |
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160 | (1) |
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5.2.2.1 Fabric Pretreatment |
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161 | (3) |
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5.2.2.2 Choice of Thickener |
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164 | (2) |
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5.2.2.3 Printing Methods with Reactive Dyes |
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166 | (1) |
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5.2.2.4 Washing-Off of Reactive Prints |
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167 | (1) |
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5.2.2.5 Preparation of Stock Paste |
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168 | (1) |
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5.2.3 Printing with Vat Dyes |
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169 | (3) |
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5.2.3.1 Mixed Thickeners May Give Better Prints |
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172 | (2) |
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5.2.4 Printing with Solubilized Vat Dyes |
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174 | (1) |
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5.2.5 Printing with Azoic Colors |
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175 | (2) |
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5.2.5.1 Fixation Processes |
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177 | (1) |
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5.2.5.1.1 Rapid Fast Colors |
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177 | (1) |
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5.2.5.1.2 Rapidogen Colors |
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177 | (1) |
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5.3 Direct Style of Printing of Silk and Wool |
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177 | (6) |
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5.3.1 Surface Chlorination of Wool Fabric |
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178 | (1) |
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179 | (1) |
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5.3.3 Printing Components |
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179 | (1) |
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5.3.3.1 Solvents, Solution Aids and Humectants |
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179 | (1) |
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5.3.3.2 pH Controlling Agents |
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180 | (1) |
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5.3.3.3 Mild Oxidizing Agent |
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180 | (1) |
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180 | (1) |
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181 | (1) |
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181 | (1) |
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5.3.4 Printing with Acid Dyes |
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181 | (1) |
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5.3.5 Printing with Metal-Complex Dyes |
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182 | (1) |
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5.3.5.1 Process Sequence: Same as Acid Dyes |
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182 | (1) |
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5.3.6 Printing with Reactive Dyes |
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182 | (1) |
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5.3.6.1 Process Sequence: Same as Acid Dyes |
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182 | (1) |
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5.4 Direct Style of Printing on Nylon |
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183 | (4) |
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5.4.1 Printing Ingredients |
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184 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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184 | (1) |
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5.4.1.5 Acid Liberating Agents |
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184 | (1) |
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185 | (1) |
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5.4.2.1 Printing Method with Acid or Metal Complex Dye |
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185 | (1) |
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5.4.3 Printing with Disperse Dye |
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186 | (1) |
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5.4.3.1 Printing with Reactive Dye |
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186 | (1) |
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5.5 Direct Style of Printing on Polyester |
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187 | (5) |
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187 | (1) |
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5.5.2 Print Paste Formulation |
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188 | (1) |
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5.5.3 Printing Ingredients |
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188 | (1) |
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188 | (1) |
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188 | (1) |
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189 | (1) |
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5.5.3.4 Wetting Agent or Solvent |
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189 | (1) |
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189 | (1) |
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5.5.3.6 Acid Liberating Agent |
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190 | (1) |
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190 | (1) |
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5.5.3.8 Carriers and Accelerators |
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190 | (2) |
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5.6 Direct Style of Printing on Acrylic |
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192 | (1) |
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192 | (1) |
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192 | (1) |
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192 | (1) |
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192 | (1) |
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5.6.1.4 Wetting Agent or Solvent |
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193 | (1) |
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193 | (1) |
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193 | (1) |
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193 | (1) |
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5.7 Resist Style of Printing |
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193 | (3) |
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5.8 Discharge Style of Printing |
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196 | (4) |
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5.8.1 Discharge Printing of Cellulosic Materials |
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196 | (1) |
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5.8.2 Discharge Printing of Silk and Wool |
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197 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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5.8.2.2 Discharge Style with Acid Dyes |
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198 | (1) |
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5.8.3 Discharge and Discharge-Resist Processes on Polyester Fiber |
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199 | (1) |
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200 | (5) |
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Chapter 6 Manual Printing Methods |
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205 | (42) |
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205 | (4) |
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206 | (1) |
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207 | (1) |
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208 | (1) |
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208 | (1) |
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6.1.5 Flatbed Screen Printing |
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208 | (1) |
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6.1.6 Rotary Screen Printing |
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209 | (1) |
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6.1.7 Digital Textile Printing |
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209 | (1) |
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6.2 Block Printing Method |
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209 | (10) |
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211 | (4) |
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215 | (1) |
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215 | (4) |
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6.3 Stencil Printing Method |
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219 | (1) |
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219 | (1) |
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6.3.2 Printing with Stencil |
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219 | (1) |
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220 | (1) |
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6.5 Flatbed Screen Printing |
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221 | (24) |
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6.5.1 Disadvantages of Using Screen Printing |
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223 | (1) |
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223 | (1) |
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224 | (1) |
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225 | (2) |
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227 | (1) |
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6.5.1.5 Screen Gauze Materials |
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228 | (1) |
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228 | (1) |
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6.5.3 Gauze from Synthetic Filaments |
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229 | (1) |
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230 | (1) |
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6.5.5 Polyester Fiber Gauze |
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230 | (1) |
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6.5.6 Metal Filament Gauze |
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231 | (1) |
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232 | (1) |
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6.5.6.2 Screen Coating Lacquer |
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233 | (2) |
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235 | (1) |
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235 | (1) |
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6.5.8 Covering of the Frame with Gauze |
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236 | (1) |
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6.5.9 Fastening and Stretching of the Gauze by Hand |
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237 | (1) |
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6.5.10 Photo-Chemical Method of Design Transfer |
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238 | (1) |
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6.5.11 Light-Sensitive Coating |
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239 | (1) |
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239 | (1) |
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240 | (1) |
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240 | (1) |
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6.5.15 Application of the Light-Sensitive Coatings |
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241 | (1) |
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6.5.16 Method of Printing Using Large-Size Diapositives |
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241 | (2) |
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243 | (1) |
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6.5.18 Washing after Exposure |
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243 | (1) |
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6.5.18.1 Manual Screen Printing Process |
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244 | (1) |
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245 | (2) |
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Chapter 7 Roller and Screen Printing Machines |
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247 | (38) |
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247 | (1) |
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7.2 Roller Printing Machine |
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248 | (7) |
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250 | (2) |
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252 | (1) |
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252 | (1) |
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7.2.4 Defects of Roller Printing |
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253 | (1) |
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253 | (1) |
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254 | (1) |
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254 | (1) |
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254 | (1) |
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254 | (1) |
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255 | (1) |
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255 | (1) |
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7.3 Semi-Automatic Screen Printing Machine |
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255 | (1) |
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7.4 Automatic Screen Printing Machine |
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256 | (5) |
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256 | (1) |
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7.4.1.1 Double-Blade Squeegee |
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257 | (1) |
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7.4.1.2 Magnetic-Rod Squeegee |
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257 | (1) |
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7.4.2 Intermittent Movement of the Blanket |
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257 | (1) |
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7.4.3 Discontinuity of Gumming and Washing |
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258 | (1) |
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7.4.4 Control of Fabric Speed through the Dryer |
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259 | (1) |
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259 | (1) |
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7.4.5.1 Number of Squeegee Passes |
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260 | (1) |
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260 | (1) |
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7.4.5.3 Efficiency of the Dryer |
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260 | (1) |
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260 | (1) |
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260 | (1) |
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260 | (1) |
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261 | (1) |
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7.5 Rotary Screen Printing Machine |
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261 | (12) |
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262 | (1) |
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7.5.2 Setting-Up of Rollers |
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263 | (1) |
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7.5.3 Blanket and Screen Drives |
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263 | (1) |
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263 | (1) |
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7.5.4.1 Types of Rotary Screens |
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264 | (1) |
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264 | (2) |
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266 | (1) |
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266 | (1) |
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266 | (1) |
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7.5.7 Merits/Drawbacks of Rotary Screen |
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267 | (1) |
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268 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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7.5.9.1 Sustainable Production |
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270 | (1) |
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7.5.9.2 Calculation of Predicted Consumptions |
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270 | (1) |
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7.5.9.3 Evaluation of the Accurate Paste Autoweigh System |
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271 | (2) |
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7.6 Fixation and After-Treatment Methods |
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273 | (8) |
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274 | (1) |
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7.6.1.1 Curing Machine for Pigment Print |
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274 | (1) |
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7.6.1.2 Drier for Roller Printing Machine |
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275 | (1) |
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7.6.1.3 Drier for Rotary Screen Printing Machine |
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276 | (1) |
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276 | (1) |
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7.6.2.1 Dry Heat Fixation |
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277 | (1) |
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277 | (1) |
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277 | (1) |
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277 | (1) |
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278 | (1) |
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7.6.3.2 Continuous Steamers |
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278 | (1) |
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278 | (2) |
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280 | (1) |
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281 | (4) |
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Chapter 8 Digital Printing |
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|
285 | (62) |
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285 | (2) |
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8.2 History of Digital Printing |
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287 | (1) |
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8.3 Market of Inkjet Printed Textiles |
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288 | (1) |
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8.4 Screen Printing versus Digital Printing |
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289 | (3) |
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8.4.1 Merits/Drawbacks of Inkjet Printing |
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290 | (1) |
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8.4.1.1 Advantages of Screen Printing |
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290 | (1) |
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8.4.1.2 Disadvantages of Using Screen Printing |
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290 | (1) |
|
8.4.1.3 Advantages of Digital Printing |
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290 | (1) |
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8.4.1.4 Drawbacks of Digital Printing |
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290 | (1) |
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291 | (1) |
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8.4.1.6 Less Investment, Higher Savings |
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291 | (1) |
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8.4.1.7 Manpower Flexibility |
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291 | (1) |
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292 | (1) |
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8.5 Popular Inkjet Printer Manufacturers |
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292 | (1) |
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8.6 Basic Concepts of Inkjet Printing |
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293 | (1) |
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8.7 Principles of Inkjet Printing |
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293 | (10) |
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8.7.1 Continuous Inkjet Printing (CIJ) Process |
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293 | (1) |
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8.7.1.1 Charged Drops for Printing |
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294 | (1) |
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8.7.1.2 Uncharged Drops for Printing |
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294 | (1) |
|
8.7.1.3 Electronic Deflection |
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294 | (1) |
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8.7.1.4 Binary-Deflection CIJ |
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295 | (1) |
|
8.7.1.5 Multi-Deflection CIJ |
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296 | (1) |
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8.7.2 Drop-on-Demand (DOD) Inkjet Technology |
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297 | (1) |
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297 | (1) |
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8.7.2.2 Drop-on-Demand Inkjet Printer versus Traditional Label Printer |
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298 | (1) |
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8.7.2.3 Piezoelectric DOD Inkjet Printer |
|
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298 | (1) |
|
8.7.2.4 Thermal DOD Inkjet Printer |
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299 | (1) |
|
8.7.2.5 Liquid Thermal/Bubble Jet |
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299 | (2) |
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301 | (1) |
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301 | (1) |
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8.7.2.8 Electrostatic DOD Inkjet Printer |
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301 | (2) |
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8.8 Substrate Pretreatment |
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|
303 | (2) |
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8.9 Types of Digital Textile Printer |
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305 | (1) |
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8.9.1 DTG and DTF Printing |
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305 | (1) |
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8.10 Color Simulation on Paper |
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|
306 | (1) |
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307 | (1) |
|
8.12 Components of Inkjet Printers |
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|
307 | (3) |
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307 | (2) |
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309 | (1) |
|
8.12.3 Colorants for Inkjet Printing |
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|
309 | (1) |
|
8.12.3.1 Merits/Drawbacks of Dyes and Pigments |
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|
309 | (1) |
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8.12.3.1.1 Advantages of Dye-Based Inks |
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|
309 | (1) |
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8.12.3.1.2 Disadvantages of Dye-Based Inks |
|
|
310 | (1) |
|
8.12.3.1.3 Advantages of Pigment-Based Inks |
|
|
310 | (1) |
|
8.12.3.1.4 Disadvantages of Pigment-Based Inks |
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|
310 | (1) |
|
8.12.3.1.5 Desirable Properties of Dyes |
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|
310 | (1) |
|
8.13 Classification of Ink Colorant |
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|
310 | (2) |
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8.13.1 Reactive Dyes Inks |
|
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311 | (1) |
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311 | (1) |
|
8.13.3 Disperse Dyes Inks |
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311 | (1) |
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311 | (1) |
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312 | (1) |
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|
312 | (4) |
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315 | (1) |
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|
316 | (1) |
|
8.15 Dye-Specific Printers |
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|
316 | (3) |
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8.15.1 Design Possibilities |
|
|
318 | (1) |
|
8.16 Effect of Fabric Structure |
|
|
319 | (1) |
|
8.17 Eco-Friendly Cleaner Production |
|
|
319 | (3) |
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|
319 | (1) |
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320 | (1) |
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|
321 | (1) |
|
8.17.4 Foaming and Defoamers |
|
|
321 | (1) |
|
8.17.5 Dielectric Properties and Conductivity |
|
|
321 | (1) |
|
|
322 | (2) |
|
8.17.6 pH and Electrolytes |
|
|
324 | (1) |
|
|
324 | (1) |
|
8.20 Just-In-Time Printing |
|
|
325 | (1) |
|
8.21 Environmental Impacts of Digital Printing |
|
|
326 | (1) |
|
|
327 | (2) |
|
8.23 3D Printing on Textiles |
|
|
329 | (8) |
|
8.23.1 3D Printing in the Fashion Industry |
|
|
330 | (1) |
|
8.23.2 Innovative Applications for Technical Textiles |
|
|
331 | (1) |
|
8.23.3 New Dimensions with 4D Printing |
|
|
331 | (2) |
|
8.23.3.1 3D Printing Methods |
|
|
333 | (3) |
|
8.23.3.2 Merits/Drawbacks of 3D Printing |
|
|
336 | (1) |
|
8.23.3.2.1 Advantages of 3D Printing |
|
|
336 | (1) |
|
8.23.3.2.2 Disadvantages of 3D Printing |
|
|
336 | (1) |
|
8.23.4 Hazards of 3D Printing |
|
|
336 | (1) |
|
|
337 | (10) |
Index |
|
347 | |