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E-grāmata: Science of Climbing and Mountaineering

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Edited by (Université de Rouen, France), Edited by (University of Zurich, Switzerland), Edited by (Uniklinik Balgrist, Switzerland)
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Science of Climbing and MountaineeringPalielināt
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This is the first book to explore in depth the science of climbing and mountaineering. Written by a team of leading international sport scientists, clinicians and climbing practitioners, it covers the full span of technical disciplines, including rock climbing, ice climbing, indoor climbing and mountaineering, across all scientific fields from physiology and biomechanics to history, psychology, medicine, motor control, skill acquisition, and engineering.

Striking a balance between theory and practice, this uniquely interdisciplinary study provides practical examples and illustrative data to demonstrate the strategies that can be adopted to promote safety, best practice, injury prevention, recovery and mental preparation. Divided into six parts, the book covers all essential aspects of the culture and science of climbing and mountaineering, including:











physiology and medicine





biomechanics





motor control and learning





psychology





equipment and technology.

Showcasing the latest cutting-edge research and demonstrating how science translates into practice, The Science of Climbing and Mountaineering is essential reading for all advanced students and researchers of sport science, biomechanics and skill acquisition, as well as all active climbers and adventure sport coaches.
List of figures
viii
List of tables
xii
List of contributors
xiii
Preface xvii
Ludovic Seifert
Peter Wolf
Andreas Schweizer
1 A cultural history of mountaineering and climbing
1(16)
Olivier Hoibian
PART I Physiology
17(40)
2 Physiology of climbing
19(29)
Luisa Giles
Jason Brandenburg
3 Economy in difficult rock climbing
48(9)
Phillip Phil B. Watts
PART II Medicine
57(52)
4 Sport climbing related injuries and overuse syndromes
59(17)
Volker Rainer Schoffl
Andreas Schweizer
5 High altitude medicine and cold effects in mountaineering
76(15)
Jean Paul Richalet
Emmanuel Cauchy
6 Hypoxic training
91(18)
Gregoire Millet
Olivier Girard
PART III Biomechanics
109(70)
7 Postural regulation and motion simulation in rock climbing
111(18)
Franck Quaine
Lionel Reveret
Simon Courtemanche
Paul G. Kry
8 Grip capabilities of climbers' hands and fingers
129(18)
Laurent Vigouroux
9 Muscular strength and endurance in climbers
147(17)
Jiri Balas
10 Biomechanics of ice tool swinging movement
164(15)
Annie Rouard
Thomas Robert
Ludovic Seifert
PART IV Motor control and learning
179(46)
11 How expert climbers use perception and action during successful climbing performance
181(15)
Ludovic Seifert
Dominic Orth
Chris Button
Keith Davids
12 What current research tells us about skill acquisition in climbing
196(14)
Dominic Orth
Chris Button
Keith Davids
Ludovic Seifert
13 Visual-motor skill in climbing
210(15)
Chris Button
Dominic Orth
Keith Davids
Ludovic Seifert
PART V Psychology
225(42)
14 Climbing grades: Systems and subjectivity
227(17)
Nick Draper
15 Psychological processes in the sport of climbing
244(13)
Gareth Jones
Xavier Sanchez
16 Exposure and engagement in mountaineering
257(10)
Eric Brymer
Erik Monasterio
PART VI Equipment, technology and safety devices in climbing
267(34)
17 The engineering of climbing equipment
269(13)
Franz Konstantin Fuss
Peter Wolf
18 Simul-climbing progression and falls analysis
282(19)
Philippe Batoux
Index 301
Ludovic Seifert is Professor at the Faculty of Sport Sciences at the University of Rouen in France. He gained a PhD in expertise and coordination dynamics in swimming at the University of Rouen in 2003, then a certification to supervise research in 2010. He conducts his research in the field of motor learning and motor control. He is a mountain guide certified by IFMGA.

Peter Wolf studied sports engineering at the Chemnitz University of Technology, Germany, and carried out his PhD thesis on foot biomechanics at the Institute for Biomechanics, ETH Zurich, Switzerland. For the last few years, he has been the Scientific Coordinator of the SMS-Lab, ETH Zurich. His research interests include (i) the design of sport simulators in virtual environments, (ii) the development of devices measuring performance in sports and motor learning and (iii) the establishment of augmented, real-time feedback displays facilitating motor learning of complex tasks.

Andreas Schweizer is Deputy Head of Hand Surgery at the Balgrist University Hospital, Zurich, Switzerland. He is adept in wrist surgery, surgery on peripheral nerves, surgical treatment of hand fractures, ultrasound on the hand, and 3D computer aided analysis of malunions. Currently, he is also the medical advisor for the technical committee of the Swiss Alpine Club.
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Permanent link: https://www.kriso.lv/db/97813174031662e.html
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