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| Introduction |
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xiii | |
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| Preface |
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xxi | |
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Chapter I Departure from Tabreez.---Our Party.---Borringe.---Character of the Mountains.---The Adgee Chai.---Khocljeh.---Departure from Khodjeh.---Breakfast.---Position of Villages.---Kuzi Kapan.---The Inhabitants.---Ke-khoda.---Vermin.---Buying a Holiday.---Mountains of Karadaugh.---Old Caravanserai.---The Roads.---Ahar.---Mines of Urghurt.---Copper Mines.---Seyeed Khan.---Tomb of Shahaub-u-deen.---Superstition |
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Chapter II Departure from Ahar.---Gheun-deughclee.---Kaleh-bashee.---Game.---Arrival at Meezaum.---Shah-sevens.---Robbery.---Savalaun Daugh.---Mishkeen.---Arrival at Loree.---Dinner.---Our Cook.---"Tvveel."---Dismal Weather.---Leave Loree.---Soomaree.---Ruined Castle.---Bad Quarters.---Vermin.---Departure from Soomaree.---The Shah-seven Tribe.---Their numbers in Mishkeen.---In Arclebeel.---Arrive at Ardebeel.---Uninhabitable Lodgings.---Removal lo better.---The Vekeel.---Letters from England |
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Chapter III Visit to the Vekeel.---Tombs of the Sheik Suffee-u-deen and Shah Ismael.---The Fortress.---Turkish and Persian Manners.---Prisoners in the Fort.---Legend.---Description of Arclebeel.---Departure.---Pintailed Grouse.---Arrive at Nemeen.---A Princess.---Description of Nemeen.---Departure.---Shinghian Kaleh.---Descend the Mountains.---Tent-dwelling Tribes.---Bad Road.---Scenery.---Kishveh.---Night-fall.---Reach Astara |
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Chapter IV Astara.---The River.---Cutting Iron.---Ghileh-keran.---Revenue of Meer Caussim Khan's District.---Fishing.---The Caspian.---Costume of the Peasantry.---Difficulty of obtaining Information.---Departure from Astara.---Shells.---Scenery of the Coast.---Arrival at Hehvee.---Wild Hog.---Hehvee.---Departure.---Names of Rivers.---The Kerghanagh-rood---Village of Kerghanagh.---A kind Invitation---Ferrajoollah Beg.---Civility---Persian Dinner.---Persian Appetite.---We Remain a Day at: Kerghanagh.---Royal Tiger.---Wild Beasts Inhabiting Gheelaun.---Persian Manner of Eating.---Leave Kerghanagh.---ATaulish House.---Mode of Collecting Attendants---Take Leave of the Beg.---The Kummer.---Fishing.---Modes of Taking Wild Fowl.---Rivers Forded during the clay.---Arrival at Coopoorchar.---Taulish |
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Chapter V Departure from Coopoorchar.---Approach Enzellee.---Our Quarters.---Present from the Governor.---Fishing.---Bad Weather.---Receive Visits.---Persian Window.---An Invitation.---Mohamed Ameen Khan.---Soldiery.---Military Resources of Gheelaun.---Calling the Muster-roll.---The Admiral of the Caspian.---Review.---Cannon and Foundry at Enzellee.---"Bust."---Visit to the Admiral.---Remarks.---A Satisfactory Conclusion.---Fine Day !---The Lake of Enzellee.---Rivers Flowing into it.---Fishes.---Boats.---Pelicans.---Rain.---Pheasant Shooting.---Enzellee.---Its Trade.---Its Revenue.---Price of Provisions.---Departure for Peeree Bazar.---Arrival.---Horses.---The Road to Resht.---The Mongodeh River.---Cause of the Bad State of the Road.---Arrival at Resht |
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Chapter VI Lodgings.---Hadgee Mohamed Allee.---Hadgee Meer Ismael.---A Persian Connoisseur in Drawing.---Superstition Regarding the Pig.---Resht---its Population.---Bazar.---Style of the Buildings---Revenue.---Silk.---Account of the Silk-Worm.---Qualities of the Silk.---Mulberry Plantations.---Annual Amount of Silk.---Manner of Exportation.---Obtain a Bath.---Pheasant Shooting.---A Wild Beast.---The Jackal.---Eclipse of the Moon.---Fortunate and Unfortunate Days.---Objections to Mr. A.'s Improved Reel |
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Chapter VII A Fortunate Day.---Departure from Resht---Nature of the Country.---The Sefeed-rood.---Ferry.---Kesoun.---Road to Lahijan.---Arrival.---My White Hat.---Mahomed Allee Khan.---Lahijan.---Regarding Estimates of Population.---Revenue.---Visit [ he Governor.---Leave Lahijan.---Old Causeway.---Scenery.---Arrival at Langarood.---Meer Aboo Talib Khan's Summer-House.---Revenue.---Start for the Sefeed-rood.---The Langarood River.---Wild Fowl.---Fish.---Wild Duck Catchers.---A Predicament.---Reach the Sefeed-rood---Our Quarters. The Colony of Russian Fishermen.---Particulars of the Fishery.---Caviare.---Dried Fish.---Isinglass.---Rent of the Fishery.---Geography of the Coast-Rising and Falling of the Caspian.---Picturesque Bridge.---Remains of Elton's Ship.---Boys Fishing |
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Chapter VIII Leave Langarood.---Arrival at Rood-i-sir.---An Accident. Rood-i-sir.---Hidden Treasure.---Game.---Description of Gheelaun.---Departure from Rood-i-sir.---Scenery of the Coast.---Rivers Forded during the Day.---Snares for Pheasants.---Gipsies.---Arrive at Surimroo.---Curious Patten.---Precautions against Wild Beasts.---Aub-i-gherm.---Leave Surimroo.---Rivers.---Azad-mahee Fishery.---The Azad-mahee.---Zuvvar. Curious Fire-Place.---Leave Zuvvar.---Ussuf Sultaun.---Reach Abbasabad.---Wild Boar.---Abbasabad.---Continue our Journey.---Rivers along the Coast.---A Bear.---Arrive at Kerparoo.---Districts of Tennacorben, Kellauristauk, and Coojoor.---Departure.---Scenery.---Wild Fowl.---Rivers along the Coast.---Arrival at Serrorclin Kellau.---Vain Attempts to Obtain a Lodging.---A Mistake, and the Consequences.---Method of Stacking Rice |
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Chapter IX Continue our Route.---Rivers along the Coast.---Noor.---Reach Izzutdeh.---Sugar.---Departure.---Marshy Forest.---The Allem-rood.---The Harrauz.---Swimming the Horses over.---A scene of Confusion.---Talligi-sir---Our Lodgings---A Merry Christmas !---Wintry Appearance of the Country.---Road to Aumil.---The Meerza Unhorsed.---Auni.il.---The District of Aumil.---Bridge.---Mausoleum of Seyed Ghwaum-u-deen.---Iron Mines of Allisherood.---Road to Tehraun.---Leave Aumil.---Shah Abbas' Causeway.---Game.---Rice Mill.---Arrival at Borfroosh.---Our Quarters.---Receive a Visit from the Prince's Meerza.---The Baugh-i-Shah---The Prince's Apartment.---Ardeshir Meerza.---His Attachment to the Bottle.---Receive and Pay Visits.---Abbas Kooly Meerza.---Lovely Scenery |
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Chapter X Aide-i-Koorban---The Prince Receives a Khalaat from Tehraun---Ride out to witness the Investiture.---Return to Town.---Borfroosh.---Causes of its Decay---The Streets.---Bazars.---Situation.---Extent.---Revenue.---Trade---We Obtain a Bath.---Remarks.---The Province of Mauzunderoon.---Its Situation.---Appearance.---Wild Animals.---Districts.---Salary of the Governor---Inhabitants.---Military Force.---Language of the Peasantry.---Wandering Tribes.---Productions.---Rice.---Sugar.---Cotton.---Grain.---Fruits.---The Revenue.---Administration.---Roads---Rivers.---Fish.---Climate---Similarity to India.---Invitation to a Hog-hunt.---The River Bawbil.---Dine with Arcleshir Meerza.---The Decorations of the Table.---The Prince's Drawings.---Dinner.---Persian Music and Musicians.---Daoud Meerza.---The Zil-i-Sultaun.---Take Leave |
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Chapter XI Road to Meshed-i-sir---Sheep.---Meshed-i-sir.---The Trade.---Sturgeon Fishery---Method of Catching Wild Fowl.---Duck Shooting.---The Imaumzadeh Ibrahim.---Dine again with the Prince.---Abbas Kooly Khan.---The Amusements of the Evening.---Miserable Condition of our Horses.---The Prince and Court Intoxicated at Mid-day.---Road to Alleeabad.---Alleeabad.---Departure.---The Causeway.---Beautiful Scenery.---Surkehkellaw.---The Causeway Again.---Arrive at Saree.---The Palace.---Description of Saree.---Fortifications.---Ancient Buildings.---The Goombuz-i-Selm-i-Toor.---Aub-ambars.---The Bazars.---The Streets.---Caravanserais.---Trade.---Tribes inhabiting Saree |
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Chapter XII Receive Visits---The Aid-i-cadar.---A Persian Garden.---Seed-time and Harvest in Mauzunderoon.---Bridge over theThedjin.---Dervishes at Saree.---Linen Manufactures.---A Physiognomist.---Visit theVekeel.---System of Education in Persia.---Leave Saree.---Road to Ferrabad.---Arrival at Ferrabad.---Quarters.---Pleasure-House of Shah Abbas.---Trade of Ferrabad.---Poverty of the Inhabitants.---Sturgeon Fisheries of Mauzunderoon.---Their total Produce.---Carp, Sefeed-mahee, and Azad-mahee Fishery.---Departure from Ferrabad---Prevailing winds on the Coast.---Road to Karatuppeh.---Tumuli.---Karatuppeh.---View from the Top of the Mound.---Regarding the Affghauns in Mauzun-deroon.---Bad Water.---Ruins at Shah-keelaw.---Late Arrival of our Baggage |
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Chapter XIII Leave Karatuppeh.---Soofeeabad.---Reach Ashreff.---Description of the various Gardens and Palaces.---Ashreff.---Departure.---Arrival at Reckhiaubeen.---Our Lodgings.---Road to Cez.---Curious Grave-Stones.---The Jair-i-Koulbad.---Arrive at Gez.---Manner of Building Houses.---Disappointed in Our Attempts to Visit Arshourada.---At Last Succeed in Obtaining a Boat.---Passage Across the Bay.---Reach the Russian Vessels.---Mr. Duhamel.---The Steamer.---The Araxe, fourteen-gun Brig.---Arshourada.---Unhealthy Climate.---Sickness and Mortality among the Sailors.---Habitations on the Island.---Grave-yard.---Regarding the Presence of the Russians at Arshourada.---The Mode of Life of the Officers.---Their Pay.---Return to Gez in the Steamer.---Astonishment of our Persian Servants.---The Bay of Astrabad.---The Landing.---Preparations for Departure |
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Chapter XIV Departure from Gez.---Kafshigeeree.---Toorcoman Incursions.---Ink.---Sesame.---Leave Kafshigeeree.---Thievish Propensities of the Natives.---Our Gholaum.---Arrival at Astrabacl.---Suleiman Khan.---Anecdote.---Manner in which the Khan Obtained his Post.---A Gholaum Wounded by a Toorcoman.---Humza Khan.---Sale of an Uncle.---Dinner.---Scenery.---An Occasion of Serious Discomposure to Suleiman Khan.---A Visit to the Desert.---The Party.---Suleiman Khan's Son.---Mel by some Toorcoman Chiefs.---A Singular Shooting Party.---Head-Dress of the Toorcoman Women.---The Encampment.---The Chief's Wife.---A Singer.---Breakfast.---Return to Astrabad |
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Chapter XV A Squirrel Hunter---Yussuf Khan.---Astrabad.---Bazars.---Streets.---The Palace.---Artillery.---Trade.---Revenue.---Province of Astrabad.---Administration.---The Governor and the Toorcomans.---Border Warfare.---Character of the Toorcomans.---Their Appearance.---Their Trade.---Horses---Revenue of the Province.---Military Force.---Probable Population---The Climate.---The Roads.---Rivers.---Fisheries-Productions.---Coal in Shahkoo.---Antiquities |
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Chapter XVI An Execution.---Fate of the Nephew Who Sold his Uncle.---The Moharrem---ibbon's Account of Hossein's Death.---The Persian Story-Representation of the Return of Hossein's Family to Medina.---Effect on the Multitude.---A Large Tree.---Further Ceremonies Usual at the Moharrem |
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Chapter XVII Take Leave of Suleiman Khan.---Quit Astrabad---Miaunderreh.---Continue Our Journey.---Cross the Mountains.---The Megassee Caves.---Departure---Sorver and Shahkoo.---Shem-shir-bour.---Chehardeh.---Refuge Towers.---A Miraculous Spring.---Cheshmeh Allee.---Fortified Villages.---Ayanoo.---Deep-Rooted Superstition.---Leave Ayanoo.---Tooclervah.---Shebkess.---Auhoowan.---Caravanserai.---Legend.---Sacrilege Punished---Old Ruin |
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Chapter XVIII Leave Auhoowan.---Partridges.---Arrive at Semnoon.---Maimoon Khoneh.---Semnoon.---Legend.---Departure.---Wild Sheep.---Surkeh.---Lasghird.---Abdoollahbad.---Reach Dehnummuck.---Continue our Journey.---Khaur.---Destruction of the Grain Crops by Flies.---Kishlaugh.---Arrival at Eywanekaif.---Veramine.---Palesht.---Demawund.---Tehraun.---Rev. Dr. Wolff |
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Chapter XIX Description of Tehraun.---Race-course.---Ruins of Rhe---Hadgee Meerza Aghassee---Manner in which He Became Vizier.---Anecdotes.---Meerza Abool Hassan Khan---Mehmet Shah |
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Chapter XX Syrian army in Egypt. Salah al-Din's acquisition of Bilbays and the Leave Tehraun.---Chuppar Ride to Tabreez---Bahman Meerza.---Tabreez.---Ruins.---Manner of Supplying the Town with Water.---Bazars.---Trade.---Gardens.---Norooz.---Leave Persia |
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