Preface |
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xv | |
Foreword |
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xvii | |
About the Contributors |
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xxi | |
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1 Introduction to Sustainability |
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1 | (16) |
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1 | (1) |
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1.2 Introduction to Sustainability |
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2 | (1) |
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1.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry |
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3 | (3) |
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1.4 Drivers of Sustainability |
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6 | (4) |
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1.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism |
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7 | (1) |
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1.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs |
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7 | (1) |
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1.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources |
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8 | (1) |
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1.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain |
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9 | (1) |
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1.4.5 Laws and Regulation |
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9 | (1) |
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10 | (1) |
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1.5 Sustainability Reporting |
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10 | (2) |
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1.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports |
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10 | (1) |
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1.5.2 Communicating to Consumers |
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11 | (1) |
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1.6 Guide to Book Chapters |
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12 | (5) |
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15 | (2) |
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2 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products |
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17 | (30) |
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Part 1 The Growing Importance of Metrics |
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17 | (14) |
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2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting |
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18 | (1) |
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2.1.1.1 Introducing the Concept of "Scope" |
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18 | (2) |
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2.1.1.2 Life-Cycle Assessment |
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20 | (4) |
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2.1.1.3 Case study -- LCA of Skin Care Products |
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24 | (1) |
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25 | (1) |
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2.1.2.1 Definition and Principles |
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25 | (1) |
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2.1.2.2 Responsibilities and Tools |
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25 | (1) |
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2.1.2.3 Case Study -- Ecodesign of a Package |
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26 | (1) |
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2.1.3 Get Ready for the Future |
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27 | (1) |
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2.1.3.1 Environmental Labeling of Consumer Products |
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27 | (1) |
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2.1.3.2 Programs to Involve Suppliers in a Continuous Improvement Process |
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27 | (3) |
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30 | (1) |
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31 | (1) |
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Part 2 Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L'Oreal Example |
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31 | (16) |
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31 | (1) |
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32 | (1) |
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2.2.2.1 Predictive Evaluation and Green Chemistry |
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33 | (1) |
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2.2.2.2 Biodegradability of Formulas |
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34 | (1) |
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2.2.2.3 Eco-Design of Packaging |
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34 | (1) |
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2.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation |
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35 | (1) |
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2.2.3.1 Case Study: Palm Oil |
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36 | (1) |
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2.2.3.2 Vercors Botanical Garden |
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37 | (1) |
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2.2.3.3 The Solidarity Sourcing Program |
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37 | (1) |
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2.2.4 Responsible Production |
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38 | (1) |
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2.2.4.1 Energy and Greenhouse Gases in Manufacturing, Water Use, and Waste Management |
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38 | (1) |
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39 | (1) |
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2.2.4.3 Transport and New Carbon Reduction Initiatives |
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39 | (1) |
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2.2.4.4 Environmental Performance of Factories and Distribution Centers |
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39 | (1) |
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2.2.5 Reference Actions -- Some Examples of Key Achievements |
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40 | (1) |
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2.2.5.1 Shampoos Ultra-Kind to the Environment |
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40 | (2) |
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2.2.5.2 Environmental Labeling: A Joint Initiative between Garnier and Carrefour |
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42 | (1) |
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2.2.5.3 Responsible Management of Paper and Cardboard |
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43 | (1) |
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2.2.5.4 Sustainable Sourcing of Argan Oil |
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44 | (1) |
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2.2.5.5 Phyto-Remediation Garden at Chimex |
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45 | (1) |
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45 | (1) |
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46 | (1) |
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46 | (1) |
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3 The Social Impact of a Cosmetics Company |
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47 | (22) |
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3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability |
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47 | (1) |
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3.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability |
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48 | (2) |
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48 | (1) |
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3.2.2 Solution Strategies |
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49 | (1) |
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3.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies |
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50 | (3) |
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3.3.1 Social Footprinting |
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50 | (1) |
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3.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts |
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50 | (2) |
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3.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation |
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52 | (1) |
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3.4 Case Study -- Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business |
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53 | (15) |
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55 | (7) |
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62 | (3) |
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3.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy |
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65 | (1) |
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3.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation |
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66 | (2) |
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68 | (1) |
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68 | (1) |
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68 | (1) |
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4 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials |
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69 | (28) |
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Part 1 Ethical Sourcing -- The Givaudan Approach |
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69 | (12) |
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4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing |
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69 | (1) |
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4.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality |
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70 | (1) |
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4.1.3 Working with Customers |
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71 | (1) |
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4.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships |
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72 | (1) |
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4.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos |
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72 | (2) |
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4.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar |
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74 | (2) |
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4.1.7 Moheli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang |
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76 | (3) |
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4.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production |
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4.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela |
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79 | (1) |
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4.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable? |
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80 | (1) |
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80 | (1) |
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Part 2 Innovation and Ethical Sourcing -- Beraca's Experience |
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81 | (16) |
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81 | (1) |
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4.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing |
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82 | (1) |
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4.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme |
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83 | (2) |
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4.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities |
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85 | (1) |
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4.2.4.1 Organizational Support and Business Management |
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85 | (1) |
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85 | (1) |
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4.2.4.3 Guaranteed Demand |
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86 | (1) |
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4.2.4.4 Training and Qualification |
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87 | (1) |
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4.2.4.5 Crop Diversification |
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88 | (1) |
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4.2.4.6 Promotion of Partnerships |
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88 | (1) |
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4.2.4.7 Selection of Suppliers |
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88 | (1) |
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89 | (1) |
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4.2.4.9 Placement on the Market |
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89 | (1) |
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89 | (1) |
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4.2.5.1 Cooperative Coopemaflima (Island of Marajo, Para) |
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89 | (1) |
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4.2.5.2 Community of Panacauera (Igarape-Miri, Para) |
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90 | (1) |
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4.2.5.3 Community of Nazarezinho (Igarape-Miri, Para) |
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91 | (1) |
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4.2.5.4 Ilha das Oncas (Ilha das Oncas, Para) |
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91 | (1) |
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4.2.5.5 Farmer's Association of the Community of Santa Luzia (Tome-Acu, Para) |
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92 | (1) |
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4.2.5.6 Community of Caetes (Braganca, Para) |
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93 | (1) |
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4.2.5.7 Community of Jubim (Salvaterra, Para) |
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93 | (1) |
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4.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved |
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93 | (1) |
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94 | (1) |
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95 | (2) |
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5 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry |
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97 | (30) |
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97 | (3) |
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5.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry |
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99 | (1) |
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5.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity? |
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100 | (3) |
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5.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy |
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101 | (1) |
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102 | (1) |
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5.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry? |
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103 | (6) |
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5.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity |
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103 | (1) |
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5.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity |
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104 | (2) |
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5.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol |
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106 | (1) |
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5.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES) |
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107 | (2) |
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5.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity |
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109 | (5) |
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5.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing |
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110 | (1) |
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5.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations |
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111 | (1) |
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5.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies |
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111 | (3) |
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5.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice |
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114 | (10) |
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5.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice |
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114 | (2) |
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5.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity |
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116 | (2) |
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5.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity |
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118 | (2) |
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5.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing |
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120 | (4) |
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124 | (3) |
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125 | (2) |
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127 | (28) |
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127 | (2) |
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129 | (1) |
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Part 2 Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products -- Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life |
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129 | (10) |
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129 | (1) |
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6.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition |
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130 | (1) |
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6.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint |
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131 | (1) |
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6.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins |
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132 | (2) |
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6.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content |
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134 | (1) |
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6.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging -- Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability |
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135 | (1) |
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6.2.7 Science of Biodegradability |
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136 | (2) |
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138 | (1) |
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139 | (1) |
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Part 3 The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging |
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139 | (9) |
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139 | (1) |
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140 | (1) |
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6.3.2.1 Being Less Bad or 100% Good |
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140 | (1) |
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141 | (1) |
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142 | (2) |
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6.3.5 Innovation and Design |
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144 | (1) |
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6.3.6 Graphical Component |
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144 | (1) |
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145 | (1) |
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6.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked! |
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145 | (2) |
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147 | (1) |
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148 | (1) |
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Part 4 Sustainable Packaging -- Aveda Case Study |
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148 | (7) |
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6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment -- The Aveda Mission |
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148 | (1) |
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6.4.2 Direction from the Top |
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148 | (1) |
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149 | (1) |
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6.4.3.1 Rosemary Mint Shampoo |
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149 | (2) |
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151 | (1) |
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151 | (1) |
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152 | (1) |
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152 | (1) |
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6.4.4 Real Sustainability |
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153 | (1) |
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153 | (2) |
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7 Energy and Waste Management |
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155 | (20) |
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Charles J. `Chuck' Bennett |
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7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry |
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155 | (4) |
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7.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business |
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155 | (1) |
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7.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry |
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156 | (2) |
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7.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products |
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158 | (1) |
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159 | (2) |
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7.3 Energy Management in Aveda |
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161 | (6) |
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7.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities |
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162 | (1) |
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7.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements |
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162 | (1) |
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7.3.3 Results and Current Situation |
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163 | (1) |
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7.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets |
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164 | (2) |
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7.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda's Energy Management -- Shipping and Product Use |
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166 | (1) |
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7.4 Waste Management at Aveda |
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167 | (6) |
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7.4.1 Waste Management in Operations |
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167 | (2) |
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7.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine |
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169 | (1) |
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7.4.3 Products and Packaging |
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169 | (4) |
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173 | (2) |
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173 | (2) |
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8 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy |
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175 | (22) |
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175 | (3) |
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8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility |
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175 | (1) |
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8.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy |
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176 | (2) |
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178 | (1) |
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Part 2 Burt's Bees® Case Study |
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178 | (11) |
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8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership |
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180 | (1) |
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8.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability |
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181 | (3) |
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184 | (2) |
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8.2.4 Employee Engagement |
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186 | (2) |
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188 | (1) |
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188 | (1) |
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Part 3 Dr. Bronner's Magic Soaps: Business as Activism |
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189 | (8) |
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189 | (1) |
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189 | (2) |
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8.3.3 Fair Trade Projects |
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191 | (3) |
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194 | (1) |
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195 | (2) |
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9 Green Formulations and Ingredients |
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197 | (20) |
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197 | (1) |
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198 | (2) |
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9.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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9.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient |
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199 | (1) |
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9.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient |
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199 | (1) |
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199 | (1) |
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9.3 How Natural are Current Market Products? |
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200 | (2) |
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9.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics |
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202 | (2) |
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9.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients |
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204 | (10) |
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9.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients |
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214 | (1) |
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214 | (3) |
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215 | (2) |
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10 Green Standards, Certification and Indices |
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217 | (22) |
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217 | (1) |
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10.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards |
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218 | (11) |
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10.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products |
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219 | (1) |
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219 | (1) |
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10.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France) |
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220 | (1) |
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221 | (1) |
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10.2.5 Soil Association (UK) |
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221 | (1) |
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222 | (1) |
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222 | (2) |
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224 | (1) |
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10.2.9 Other European Standards |
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225 | (1) |
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10.2.10 Major North American Standards |
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225 | (1) |
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226 | (1) |
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10.2.12 NSF International |
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226 | (1) |
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10.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association) |
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227 | (1) |
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10.2.14 Standards in Other Regions |
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228 | (1) |
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10.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards |
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229 | (1) |
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229 | (2) |
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231 | (3) |
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10.4.1 Eco Flower -- The European Eco-Label |
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231 | (1) |
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10.4.2 Nordic Swan -- The Nordic Ecolabel |
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232 | (1) |
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232 | (1) |
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232 | (1) |
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10.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification |
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233 | (1) |
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233 | (1) |
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10.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices |
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234 | (5) |
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10.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000 |
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234 | (1) |
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235 | (1) |
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236 | (1) |
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10.5.4 Sustainable Indexes |
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236 | (1) |
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237 | (2) |
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11 Understanding Green Marketing |
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239 | (16) |
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11.1 The "Why" of Sustainability |
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240 | (2) |
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242 | (2) |
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11.3 Best Green Practices |
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244 | (1) |
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11.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green |
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245 | (7) |
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245 | (2) |
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247 | (1) |
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248 | (1) |
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11.4.4 Light Green Marketer |
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249 | (1) |
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11.4.5 Natural Green Marketer |
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250 | (1) |
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11.4.6 Deep Green Marketer |
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251 | (1) |
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252 | (3) |
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253 | (2) |
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12 Marketing Case Studies |
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255 | (34) |
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255 | (10) |
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255 | (1) |
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256 | (3) |
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12.1.3 Marketing Strategy |
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259 | (3) |
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12.1.4 Product Positioning |
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262 | (1) |
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12.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions |
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263 | (1) |
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264 | (1) |
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Part 2 Korres Natural Products |
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265 | (13) |
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12.2.1 Herbal Remedies to Natural Products |
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265 | (1) |
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265 | (2) |
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267 | (1) |
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267 | (1) |
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12.2.3 Vision and Strategy |
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268 | (1) |
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268 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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269 | (1) |
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270 | (1) |
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12.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance |
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270 | (1) |
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12.2.6 Marketing and Positioning |
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271 | (1) |
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12.2.6.1 A Leading Natural Player that Talks Efficacy |
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271 | (1) |
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12.2.7 Beauty Made Honest |
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272 | (1) |
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273 | (1) |
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273 | (1) |
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273 | (1) |
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273 | (1) |
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12.2.8.4 Responsible Packaging |
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273 | (1) |
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274 | (1) |
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274 | (2) |
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276 | (1) |
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276 | (1) |
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276 | (1) |
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12.2.10.3 Asia and Australia |
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276 | (1) |
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12.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring... The Product |
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277 | (1) |
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277 | (1) |
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Part 3 Whole Foods Market |
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278 | (11) |
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278 | (1) |
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12.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards |
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279 | (6) |
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12.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging |
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285 | (1) |
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12.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards |
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286 | (1) |
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12.3.5 Industry Recognition |
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287 | (1) |
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287 | (1) |
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288 | (1) |
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13 Targeting the Green Consumer |
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289 | (12) |
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289 | (3) |
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292 | (3) |
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295 | (1) |
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296 | (2) |
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298 | (2) |
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300 | (1) |
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301 | (14) |
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301 | (1) |
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301 | (2) |
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303 | (2) |
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305 | (3) |
|
14.5 Responsible Consumption |
|
|
308 | (2) |
|
14.6 Role of Government and Legislation |
|
|
310 | (1) |
|
14.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies |
|
|
311 | (1) |
|
|
312 | (3) |
|
|
314 | (1) |
Index |
|
315 | |