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E-grāmata: Sustainability - How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up [Wiley Online]

Edited by (President, Organic Monitor, London, UK)
  • Formāts: 368 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 24-Jan-2014
  • Izdevniecība: John Wiley & Sons Inc
  • ISBN-10: 1118676513
  • ISBN-13: 9781118676516
  • Wiley Online
  • Cena: 152,77 €*
  • * this price gives unlimited concurrent access for unlimited time
  • Formāts: 368 pages
  • Izdošanas datums: 24-Jan-2014
  • Izdevniecība: John Wiley & Sons Inc
  • ISBN-10: 1118676513
  • ISBN-13: 9781118676516
Editor Sahota presents this book on sustainability in cosmetics, introduced by a chapter on the contemporary drivers of sustainability practices. Environmental impacts are discussed from the perspective of developing reasonable metrics and acting to reduce footprint. The social impact aspects of sustainability are then highlighted, followed by the planning and execution aspects of ethical materials sourcing and the impact of corporate practice on biodiversity. Process variables such as sustainable packaging, energy and waste management, and green ingredient formulations are discussed, as well as explicit treatment of corporate responsibility. The last several chapters focus on regulatory and marketing topics, including certifications, target advertising, consumer motivations, and future outlooks. Case studies such as L'Oreal, Weleda, Givaudan, Beraca, Get Naked!, Aveda, Burt's Bees, Dr. Bronner's, Yes To, and Whole Foods illustrate the principles in each chapter. Annotation ©2014 Ringgold, Inc., Portland, OR (protoview.com)

Sustainability has come to the fore in the cosmetics and personal care industry. Rising ethical consumerism and the need for resource efficiency are making cosmetic companies – small, independent firms to global giants – take steps towards sustainable development.

Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses the growing importance of sustainability in the cosmetics industry, highlighting the various ways organisations can address the economic, environmental and social aspects. How can the cosmetics industry make a difference in terms of ingredients, formulations, packaging, CSR, operations, and green marketing?

Topics covered include:

  • Environmental and social impacts of cosmetic products
  • Ethical sourcing and biodiversity
  • Renewable energy and waste management
  • Green formulations and ingredients
  • Green marketing issues and consumer behaviour
  • Green standards, certification schemes and indices in the cosmetics industry

Industry experts share their experiences on how they are tackling the challenges of sustainability: from raw material procurements, manufacturing, business processes, to distribution and marketing to consumers. The book concludes with some future growth projections; what are some of the shortcomings in sustainability in the cosmetics industry and what can we expect to see in the future?

Sustainability: How the Cosmetics Industry is Greening Up discusses business and technical issues in all areas of sustainable product development, from sourcing ingredients, to formulation, manufacture and packaging.

Covering a diverse range of subjects, this book appeals to professionals in many key sectors of the cosmetics and personal care industry; cosmetic chemists, formulation scientists, R&D directors, policy makers, business and marketing executives. It is also of relevance to academic researchers working in cosmetic chemistry and sustainable process development.

Preface xv
Foreword xvii
About the Contributors xxi
1 Introduction to Sustainability
1(16)
Amarjit Sabota
1.1 Introduction to Book
1(1)
1.2 Introduction to Sustainability
2(1)
1.3 Ethics in the Cosmetics Industry
3(3)
1.4 Drivers of Sustainability
6(4)
1.4.1 Rise in Ethical Consumerism
7(1)
1.4.2 Pressure from the Media and NGOs
7(1)
1.4.3 Environmental Changes and Finite Resources
8(1)
1.4.4 Pressure from the Supply Chain
9(1)
1.4.5 Laws and Regulation
9(1)
1.4.6 Business Benefits
10(1)
1.5 Sustainability Reporting
10(2)
1.5.1 CSR and Sustainability Reports
10(1)
1.5.2 Communicating to Consumers
11(1)
1.6 Guide to Book
Chapters
12(5)
References
15(2)
2 Environmental Impacts of Cosmetic Products
17(30)
Part 1 The Growing Importance of Metrics
17(14)
Xavier Vital
2.1.1 Corporate Carbon Footprinting
18(1)
2.1.1.1 Introducing the Concept of "Scope"
18(2)
2.1.1.2 Life-Cycle Assessment
20(4)
2.1.1.3 Case study -- LCA of Skin Care Products
24(1)
2.1.2 Ecodesign
25(1)
2.1.2.1 Definition and Principles
25(1)
2.1.2.2 Responsibilities and Tools
25(1)
2.1.2.3 Case Study -- Ecodesign of a Package
26(1)
2.1.3 Get Ready for the Future
27(1)
2.1.3.1 Environmental Labeling of Consumer Products
27(1)
2.1.3.2 Programs to Involve Suppliers in a Continuous Improvement Process
27(3)
2.1.4 Conclusions
30(1)
Acknowledgement
31(1)
Part 2 Innovating to Reduce the Environmental Footprint, the L'Oreal Example
31(16)
Jean-Florent Campion
Rachel Barre
Laurent Gilbert
2.2.1 Introduction
31(1)
2.2.2 Product Eco-Design
32(1)
2.2.2.1 Predictive Evaluation and Green Chemistry
33(1)
2.2.2.2 Biodegradability of Formulas
34(1)
2.2.2.3 Eco-Design of Packaging
34(1)
2.2.3 Responsible Sourcing and Biodiversity Preservation
35(1)
2.2.3.1 Case Study: Palm Oil
36(1)
2.2.3.2 Vercors Botanical Garden
37(1)
2.2.3.3 The Solidarity Sourcing Program
37(1)
2.2.4 Responsible Production
38(1)
2.2.4.1 Energy and Greenhouse Gases in Manufacturing, Water Use, and Waste Management
38(1)
2.2.4.2 Certification
39(1)
2.2.4.3 Transport and New Carbon Reduction Initiatives
39(1)
2.2.4.4 Environmental Performance of Factories and Distribution Centers
39(1)
2.2.5 Reference Actions -- Some Examples of Key Achievements
40(1)
2.2.5.1 Shampoos Ultra-Kind to the Environment
40(2)
2.2.5.2 Environmental Labeling: A Joint Initiative between Garnier and Carrefour
42(1)
2.2.5.3 Responsible Management of Paper and Cardboard
43(1)
2.2.5.4 Sustainable Sourcing of Argan Oil
44(1)
2.2.5.5 Phyto-Remediation Garden at Chimex
45(1)
2.2.6 Conclusion
45(1)
Acknowledgements
46(1)
References
46(1)
3 The Social Impact of a Cosmetics Company
47(22)
Bas Schneiders
Frederic Anklin
3.1 The Relationship between Cosmetics and Sustainability
47(1)
3.2 The Growing Significance of Sustainability
48(2)
3.2.1 Current Situation
48(1)
3.2.2 Solution Strategies
49(1)
3.3 Sustainability as a Social Challenge for Cosmetics Companies
50(3)
3.3.1 Social Footprinting
50(1)
3.3.2 Critical Areas with Social Impacts
50(2)
3.3.3 Social Diversity and Differentiation
52(1)
3.4 Case Study -- Weleda: A Value-Oriented Business
53(15)
3.4.1 Ethical Sourcing
55(7)
3.4.2 Employee Policy
62(3)
3.4.3 Corporate Philanthropy
65(1)
3.4.4 Economic Sustainability and Value Creation
66(2)
3.5 Conclusions
68(1)
Recommended Reading
68(1)
References
68(1)
4 Ethical Sourcing of Raw Materials
69(28)
Part 1 Ethical Sourcing -- The Givaudan Approach
69(12)
Remi Pulverail
4.1.1 The Business Case for Ethical Sourcing
69(1)
4.1.2 Making Ethical Sourcing a Reality
70(1)
4.1.3 Working with Customers
71(1)
4.1.4 Building Supplier Partnerships
72(1)
4.1.5 Securing the Future of Benzoin in Laos
72(2)
4.1.6 Tracing the Origins of Ethical Vanilla in Madagascar
74(2)
4.1.7 Moheli Partnership Rediscovers Ylang Ylang
76(3)
4.1.8 Equipment Loans Support Sustainable Sandalwood Production
4.1.9 Protecting Biodiversity and Tonka Bean Supply in Venezuela
79(1)
4.1.10 Is Natural Sustainable?
80(1)
4.1.11 Conclusion
80(1)
Part 2 Innovation and Ethical Sourcing -- Beraca's Experience
81(16)
Filipe Tomazelli Sabara
4.2.1 Introduction
81(1)
4.2.2 Challenges Related to Ethical Sourcing
82(1)
4.2.3 Beraca and the Biodiversity Enhancement Programme
83(2)
4.2.4 Working in Partnership with Local Communities
85(1)
4.2.4.1 Organizational Support and Business Management
85(1)
4.2.4.2 Beracom
85(1)
4.2.4.3 Guaranteed Demand
86(1)
4.2.4.4 Training and Qualification
87(1)
4.2.4.5 Crop Diversification
88(1)
4.2.4.6 Promotion of Partnerships
88(1)
4.2.4.7 Selection of Suppliers
88(1)
4.2.4.8 Traceability
89(1)
4.2.4.9 Placement on the Market
89(1)
4.2.5 Success Stories
89(1)
4.2.5.1 Cooperative Coopemaflima (Island of Marajo, Para)
89(1)
4.2.5.2 Community of Panacauera (Igarape-Miri, Para)
90(1)
4.2.5.3 Community of Nazarezinho (Igarape-Miri, Para)
91(1)
4.2.5.4 Ilha das Oncas (Ilha das Oncas, Para)
91(1)
4.2.5.5 Farmer's Association of the Community of Santa Luzia (Tome-Acu, Para)
92(1)
4.2.5.6 Community of Caetes (Braganca, Para)
93(1)
4.2.5.7 Community of Jubim (Salvaterra, Para)
93(1)
4.2.6 What is Yet to be Achieved
93(1)
4.2.7 Conclusion
94(1)
References
95(2)
5 Biodiversity in the Cosmetics Industry
97(30)
Eduardo Escobedo
Rik Kutsch Lojenga
5.1 Introduction
97(3)
5.1.1 The Critical Loss of Biodiversity and its Impact on the Cosmetics Industry
99(1)
5.2 Why Should the Cosmetics Industry Care about Protecting Biodiversity?
100(3)
5.2.1 Biodiversity as a Sound Business Strategy
101(1)
5.2.2 Ecosystem Services
102(1)
5.3 How is the Policy Arena Changing and What Implications Does This Have for the Industry?
103(6)
5.3.1 The Convention on Biological Diversity
103(1)
5.3.2 The Strategic Plan for Biodiversity
104(2)
5.3.3 The Nagoya Protocol
106(1)
5.3.4 The Convention on International Trade of Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna (CITES)
107(2)
5.4 Biodiversity Barometer: Consumer Views and Expectations on Biodiversity
109(5)
5.4.1 Biodiversity Awareness is Growing
110(1)
5.4.2 Increased Awareness Brings Greater Expectations
111(1)
5.4.3 Opportunities for Pioneering Companies
111(3)
5.5 Ethical Sourcing in Practice
114(10)
5.5.1 Putting Ethical Sourcing of Biodiversity into Practice
114(2)
5.5.2 Conservation of Biodiversity
116(2)
5.5.3 Sustainable Use of Biodiversity
118(2)
5.5.4 Fair and Equitable Benefit Sharing
120(4)
5.6 Conclusions
124(3)
References
125(2)
6 Sustainable Packaging
127(28)
Part 1 Introduction
127(2)
Amarjit Sahota
References
129(1)
Part 2 Sustainable Packaging for Cosmetic Products -- Using Biobased Carbon Content and Designing for End-of-Life
129(10)
Ramani Narayan
6.2.1 Introduction
129(1)
6.2.2 Carbon Footprint Value Proposition
130(1)
6.2.3 Material Carbon Versus Process Carbon Footprint
131(1)
6.2.4 Exemplars of Zero Material Carbon Footprint Resins
132(2)
6.2.5 Measuring Biobased Carbon Content
134(1)
6.2.6 End-of-Life for the Packaging -- Recycling and Biodegradable-Compostability
135(1)
6.2.7 Science of Biodegradability
136(2)
6.2.8 Summary
138(1)
References
139(1)
Part 3 The Role of Design for Sustainable Packaging
139(9)
Anne van Haeften
6.3.1 Introduction
139(1)
6.3.2 The Design Agency
140(1)
6.3.2.1 Being Less Bad or 100% Good
140(1)
6.3.3 Packaging Design
141(1)
6.3.4 The Brand
142(2)
6.3.5 Innovation and Design
144(1)
6.3.6 Graphical Component
144(1)
6.3.7 Post-Use Packaging
145(1)
6.3.8 Lush Case Study: Get Naked!
145(2)
6.3.9 Conclusion
147(1)
References
148(1)
Part 4 Sustainable Packaging -- Aveda Case Study
148(7)
John A. Delfausse
6.4.1 A Commitment to the Environment -- The Aveda Mission
148(1)
6.4.2 Direction from the Top
148(1)
6.4.3 A Great Beginning
149(1)
6.4.3.1 Rosemary Mint Shampoo
149(2)
6.4.3.2 Why PCR?
151(1)
6.4.3.3 Aveda Brilliant
151(1)
6.4.3.4 Brilliant Tubes
152(1)
6.4.3.5 Uruku Lipstick
152(1)
6.4.4 Real Sustainability
153(1)
6.4.4.1 Renewable Energy
153(2)
7 Energy and Waste Management
155(20)
Charles J. `Chuck' Bennett
Michael S. Brown
7.1 Introduction to Energy and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry
155(4)
7.1.1 Global Resource Constraints and the Challenge for Business
155(1)
7.1.2 Energy Issues and the Cosmetics Industry
156(2)
7.1.3 Wastes and Personal Care Products
158(1)
7.2 Aveda -- The Company
159(2)
7.3 Energy Management in Aveda
161(6)
7.3.1 Process Energy Opportunities
162(1)
7.3.2 Facility Energy Improvements
162(1)
7.3.3 Results and Current Situation
163(1)
7.3.4 Renewable Energy and Emissions Offsets
164(2)
7.3.5 Other Dimensions of Aveda's Energy Management -- Shipping and Product Use
166(1)
7.4 Waste Management at Aveda
167(6)
7.4.1 Waste Management in Operations
167(2)
7.4.2 Recycling beyond Blaine
169(1)
7.4.3 Products and Packaging
169(4)
7.5 Summary
173(2)
References
173(2)
8 Corporate Social Responsibility and Philanthropy
175(22)
Part 1 Introduction
175(3)
Amarjit Sahota
8.1.1 Corporate Social Responsibility
175(1)
8.1.2 Corporate Philanthropy
176(2)
References
178(1)
Part 2 Burt's Bees® Case Study
178(11)
Paula Alexander
8.2.1 Value-Driven Sustainability Leadership
180(1)
8.2.2 The Greater Good Business Model: An Integrated Approach to Sustainability
181(3)
8.2.3 Strategic Giving
184(2)
8.2.4 Employee Engagement
186(2)
8.2.5 Summary
188(1)
References
188(1)
Part 3 Dr. Bronner's Magic Soaps: Business as Activism
189(8)
David Bronner
8.3.1 Introduction
189(1)
8.3.2 Company Background
189(2)
8.3.3 Fair Trade Projects
191(3)
8.3.4 Corporate Activism
194(1)
8.3.5 Summary
195(2)
9 Green Formulations and Ingredients
197(20)
Judi Beerling
9.1 Introduction
197(1)
9.2 Definitions
198(2)
9.2.1 Synthetic Ingredient
198(1)
9.2.2 Natural Ingredient
198(1)
9.2.3 Naturally Derived Ingredient
199(1)
9.2.4 Nature Identical Ingredient
199(1)
9.2.5 Organic
199(1)
9.3 How Natural are Current Market Products?
200(2)
9.4 Synthetic Ingredients Normally Absent from Natural/Organic Cosmetics
202(2)
9.5 Available Green Replacements for Synthetic Cosmetic Ingredients
204(10)
9.6 Formulation Issues with Green Ingredients
214(1)
9.7 Summary
214(3)
References
215(2)
10 Green Standards, Certification and Indices
217(22)
Judi Beerling
Amarjit Sahota
10.1 Introduction
217(1)
10.2 Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standards
218(11)
10.2.1 Major European Standards for Natural and Organic Products
219(1)
10.2.2 BDIH (Germany)
219(1)
10.2.3 Ecocert Greenlife (France)
220(1)
10.2.4 CosmeBio (France)
221(1)
10.2.5 Soil Association (UK)
221(1)
10.2.6 ICEA (Italy)
222(1)
10.2.7 COSMOS
222(2)
10.2.8 Natrue (Belgium)
224(1)
10.2.9 Other European Standards
225(1)
10.2.10 Major North American Standards
225(1)
10.2.11 USDA/NOP
226(1)
10.2.12 NSF International
226(1)
10.2.13 NPA (Natural Products Association)
227(1)
10.2.14 Standards in Other Regions
228(1)
10.2.15 Comparison of the Key Requirements of the Ecocert Greenlife, COSMOS and Natrue Standards
229(1)
10.3 Fair Trade Labels
229(2)
10.4 Other Eco-Labels
231(3)
10.4.1 Eco Flower -- The European Eco-Label
231(1)
10.4.2 Nordic Swan -- The Nordic Ecolabel
232(1)
10.4.3 Others in Europe
232(1)
10.4.4 Green Seal USA
232(1)
10.4.5 USDA Biobased Product Certification
233(1)
10.4.6 Carbon Labels
233(1)
10.5 Other Sustainability Standards and Indices
234(5)
10.5.1 ISO Standards 14000 and 26000
234(1)
10.5.2 SA8000
235(1)
10.5.3 Other Standards
236(1)
10.5.4 Sustainable Indexes
236(1)
References
237(2)
11 Understanding Green Marketing
239(16)
Darrin C. Duber-Smith
Mason W. Rubin
11.1 The "Why" of Sustainability
240(2)
11.2 The Green Consumer
242(2)
11.3 Best Green Practices
244(1)
11.4 Communication versus Reality: The Many Shades of Green
245(7)
11.4.1 Red Marketer
245(2)
11.4.2 Green Panderer
247(1)
11.4.3 Green Buffeteer
248(1)
11.4.4 Light Green Marketer
249(1)
11.4.5 Natural Green Marketer
250(1)
11.4.6 Deep Green Marketer
251(1)
11.5 Greener Than Thou
252(3)
References
253(2)
12 Marketing Case Studies
255(34)
Part 1 Yes To™ Inc.
255(10)
Ido Leffler
Lance Kalish
12.1.1 The Background
255(1)
12.1.2 The Growth Path
256(3)
12.1.3 Marketing Strategy
259(3)
12.1.4 Product Positioning
262(1)
12.1.5 Distribution Growth and Brand Extensions
263(1)
12.1.6 Future Plans
264(1)
Part 2 Korres Natural Products
265(13)
George Korres
12.2.1 Herbal Remedies to Natural Products
265(1)
12.2.1.1 The Pharmacy
265(2)
12.2.2 The Challenge
267(1)
12.2.2.1 Today
267(1)
12.2.3 Vision and Strategy
268(1)
12.2.3.1 Herbs
268(1)
12.2.3.2 Cooperations
269(1)
12.2.3.3 Extractions
269(1)
12.2.3.4 Research
269(1)
12.2.4 Target Audience
270(1)
12.2.5 The Portfolio at a Glance
270(1)
12.2.6 Marketing and Positioning
271(1)
12.2.6.1 A Leading Natural Player that Talks Efficacy
271(1)
12.2.7 Beauty Made Honest
272(1)
12.2.8 Sustainability
273(1)
12.2.8.1 Ingredients
273(1)
12.2.8.2 Energy
273(1)
12.2.8.3 No Waste
273(1)
12.2.8.4 Responsible Packaging
273(1)
12.2.8.5 Community
274(1)
12.2.9 Global Presence
274(2)
12.2.10 A Closer Look
276(1)
12.2.10.1 Europe
276(1)
12.2.10.2 USA
276(1)
12.2.10.3 Asia and Australia
276(1)
12.2.11 A Success Case Study Starring... The Product
277(1)
12.2.12 The Future
277(1)
Part 3 Whole Foods Market
278(11)
Jody Villecco
12.3.1 Introduction
278(1)
12.3.2 Body Care Quality Standards
279(6)
12.3.3 Whole Body Responsible Packaging
285(1)
12.3.4 Organic Body Care Labeling Standards
286(1)
12.3.5 Industry Recognition
287(1)
12.3.6 Conclusion
287(1)
References
288(1)
13 Targeting the Green Consumer
289(12)
Kathy Sheehan
13.1 Introduction
289(3)
13.2 United States
292(3)
13.3 Western Europe
295(1)
13.4 China
296(2)
13.5 Latin America
298(2)
13.6 Conclusions
300(1)
14 Future Outlook
301(14)
Amarjit Sahota
14.1 Preamble
301(1)
14.2 Sustainability
301(2)
14.3 Social Dimensions
303(2)
14.4 Green Cosmetics
305(3)
14.5 Responsible Consumption
308(2)
14.6 Role of Government and Legislation
310(1)
14.7 Benchmarking of Cosmetic Companies
311(1)
14.8 Conclusions
312(3)
References
314(1)
Index 315
Editor

Amarjit Sahota

President, Organic Monitor, London, UK