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E-grāmata: Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes)

Michael Aharon Stiassnie (Technion-israel Inst Of Tech, Israel), Dick K-p Yue (Massachusetts Inst Of Tech, Usa), Chiang C Mei (Massachusetts Inst Of Tech, Usa)

Formāts: 1240 pages
Sērija : Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering 42
Izdošanas datums: 15-Mar-2018
Izdevniecība: World Scientific Publishing Co Pte Ltd
Valoda: eng
ISBN-13: 9789813147201

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Formāts: 1240 pages
Sērija : Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering 42
Izdošanas datums: 15-Mar-2018
Izdevniecība: World Scientific Publishing Co Pte Ltd
Valoda: eng
ISBN-13: 9789813147201

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This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Preface to Part 1 of 2017 Edition

vii

Preface to the Expanded Edition

Preface to the First Edition

Acknowledgments

Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Part 1-Linear Aspects

1 Introduction

(20)

1.1 Review of Basic Formulation for an Incompressible Fluid of Constant Density

(4)

1.1.1 Governing Equations

(2)

1.1.2 Boundary Conditions for an Inviscid Irrotational Flow

(2)

1.2 Linearized Approximation for Small-Amplitude Waves

(3)

1.3 Elementary Notions of a Propagating Wave

(2)

1.4 Progressive Water Waves on Constant Depth

(4)

1.5 Group Velocity

(6)

1.5.1 A Kinematic View

(1)

1.5.2 A Dynamic View: Energy Flux

(5)

2 Propagation of Transient Waves in Open Water of Essentially Constant Depth

(44)

2.1 Two-Dimensional Transient Problems

(17)

2.1.1 Transient Disturbance Due to an Initial Displacement on the Free Surface

(6)

2.1.2 Energy Propagation, Group Velocity

(1)

2.1.3 Leading Waves Due to a Transient Disturbance

(2)

2.1.4 Tsunami Due to Tilting of the Bottom

(5)

2.2 Three-Dimensional Transient Response to Bottom Disturbances

(13)

2.2.1 Two-Dimensional Tsunami Due to Impulsive Bottom Displacement

(6)

2.2.2 Leading Waves of a Two-Dimensional Tsunami

(3)

2.3 The Propagation of a Dispersive Wave Packet

(4)

2.4 Slowly Varying Wavetrain by Multiple-Scales Analysis

(10)

2.4.1 Evolution Equation for the Wave Envelope

(4)

2.4.2 Evolution of the Front of a Wavetrain

(6)

3 Refraction by Slowly Varying Depth or Current

(58)

3.1 Geometrical Optics Approximation for Progressive Waves Over a Gradually Varying Bottom

(4)

3.2 Ray Theory for Sinusoidal Waves, Fermat's Principle

(3)

3.3 Straight and Parallel Depth Contours

(9)

3.3.1 Geometry of Rays

(5)

3.3.2 Amplitude Variation

(1)

3.3.3 The Neighborhood of a Straight Caustic

(3)

3.4 Circular Depth Contours

(14)

3.4.1 Geometry of Rays

(8)

3.4.2 Amplitude Variation

(6)

3.5 An Approximate Equation Combining Diffraction and Refraction on a Slowly Varying Bottom-The Mild-Slope Equation

(5)

3.6 Geometrical Optics Approximation for Refraction by Slowly Varying Current and Depth

103

(9)

3.7 Physical Effects of Simple Steady Currents on Waves

112

(13)

3.7.1 Uniform Current on Constant Depth

112

(2)

3.7.2 Oblique Incidence on a Shear Current Over Constant Depth

114

(6)

3.7.3 Colinear Waves and Current

120

(5)

4 Long Waves of Infinitesimal Amplitude Over Bottom with Appreciable Variations

125

(78)

4.1 Formulation of Linearized Long-Wave Theory

125

(7)

4.1.1 Governing Equations

125

(3)

4.1.2 Quasi-One-Dimensional Waves in a Long Channel of Slowly Varying Cross Section

128

(1)

4.1.3 Further Remarks on the Radiation Condition

129

(3)

4.2 Straight Depth Discontinuity-Normal Incidence

132

(13)

4.2.1 The Solution

132

(5)

4.2.2 Justification of the Matching Conditions at the Junction

137

(4)

4.2.3 The Near Field for a Rectangular Step

141

(4)

4.3 Straight Depth Discontinuity-Oblique Incidence

145

(3)

4.4 Scattering by a Shelf or Trough of Finite Width

148

(5)

4.5 Transmission and Reflection by a Slowly Varying Depth

153

(6)

4.6 Trapped Waves on a Stepped Ridge

159

(6)

4.7 Some General Features of One-Dimensional Problems-Trapped Modes and the Scattering Matrix

165

(9)

4.7.1 A Qualitative Discussion of Trapped Waves

165

(2)

4.7.2 The Scattering Matrix [ S(alpha)]

167

(2)

4.7.3 Trapped Modes as Imaginary Poles of [ S(alpha)]

169

(2)

4.7.4 Properties of [ S(alpha)] for Real alpha

171

(3)

4.8 Edge Waves on a Constant Slope

174

(2)

4.9 Circular Bottom Contours

176

(7)

4.9.1 General Aspects

176

(3)

4.9.2 Scattering of Plane Incident Waves by a Circular Sill

179

(4)

4.10 Head-Sea Incidence on a Slender Topography-The Parabolic Approximation

183

(5)

4.11 A Numerical Method Based on Finite Elements

188

(13)

4.11.1 Introduction

188

(2)

4.11.2 The Variational Principle

190

(3)

4.11.3 Finite-Element Approximation

193

(8)

Appendix 4.A: Partial Wave Expansion of the Plane Wave

201

(2)

5 Harbor Oscillations Excited by Incident Long Waves

203

(76)

5.1 Introduction

203

(2)

5.2 Formulation for Harbor Oscillation Problems

205

(2)

5.3 Natural Modes in a Closed Basin of Simple Form and Constant Depth

207

(3)

5.3.1 A Rectangular Basin

207

(2)

5.3.2 A Circular Basin

209

(1)

5.4 Concept of Radiation Damping-A Model Example

210

(4)

5.5 Diffraction Through a Narrow Gap

214

(6)

5.6 Scattering by a Long and Narrow Canal or a Bay

220

(8)

5.6.1 General Solution

220

(4)

5.6.2 An Open Narrow Bay

224

(4)

5.7 A Rectangular Harbor with a Narrow Entrance

228

(14)

5.7.1 Solution by Matched Asymptotic Expansions

230

(4)

5.7.2 Resonant Spectrum and Response for Non-Helmholtz Modes

234

(3)

5.7.3 The Helmholtz Mode

237

(1)

5.7.4 Numerical Results and Experiments

238

(3)

5.7.5 Effects of Finite Entry Channel

241

(1)

5.8 The Effect of Protruding Breakwater

242

(12)

5.8.1 Representation of Solution

243

(2)

5.8.2 Reduction to an Integral Equation

245

(2)

5.8.3 Approximate Solution by Variational Method

247

(2)

5.8.4 Numerical Results

249

(5)

5.9 A Harbor with Coupled Basins

254

(3)

5.10 A Numerical Method for Harbors of Complex Geometry

257

(5)

5.11 Harbor Response to Transient Incident Wave

262

(10)

Appendix 5.A: The Source Function for a Rectangular Basin

272

(1)

Appendix 5.B: Summation of the G Series

273

(2)

Appendix 5.C: Proof of a Variational Principle

275

(1)

Appendix 5.D: Evaluation of an Integral

276

(3)

6 Effects of Head Loss at a Constriction on the Scattering of Long Waves: Hydraulic Theory

279

(30)

6.1 One-Dimensional Scattering by a Slotted or Perforated Breakwater

280

(15)

6.1.1 The Field Equations

280

(2)

6.1.2 The Matching Conditions and the Near Field

282

(2)

6.1.3 The Coefficients f and L

284

(3)

6.1.4 Equivalent Linearization

287

(1)

6.1.5 Approximate and Exact Solutions

288

(7)

6.2 Effect of Entrance Loss on Harbor Oscillations

295

(11)

6.2.1 The Boundary-Value Problem

296

(2)

6.2.2 Local and Mean Square Response in the Harbor

298

(2)

6.2.3 Approximations for Narrow Entrance

300

(1)

6.2.4 Small Radiation and Friction Damping

301

(2)

6.2.5 Large Friction Damping

303

(1)

6.2.6 Numerical Results for General W

304

(2)

Appendix 6.A: Approximations of an Integral for ka is much < 1

306

(3)

7 Multiple Scattering by Seabed Irregularities

309

(30)

7.1 Field Evidence of Periodic Longshore Bars

310

(2)

7.2 Evolution Equations for Bragg-Scattering

312

(5)

7.3 Normal Incidence

317

(8)

7.3.1 Subcritical Detuning: 0 < omega which is < omega0

318

(1)

7.3.2 Supercritical Detuning: omega > omega0

318

(7)

7.4 Randomly Rough Seabed-Envelope Equation

325

(6)

7.5 Change of Wave Amplitude by Disorder

331

(2)

7.6 Change of Wavenumber by Disorder

333

(2)

Appendix 7.A: Explicit Evaluation of the Coefficient beta

335

(4)

8 Wave-Structure Interactions and Wave Energy Conversion

339

(134)

8.1 Introduction

339

(3)

8.2 Linearizd Equations of Motion for a Constrained Floating Body

342

(16)

8.2.1 The Kinematic Condition

342

(3)

8.2.2 Conservation of Linear Momentum

345

(3)

8.2.3 Conservation of Angular Momentum

348

(6)

8.2.4 Summary of Dynamic Equations for a Floating Body in Matrix Form

354

(4)

8.3 Simple Harmonic Motion

358

(4)

8.3.1 Decomposition into Diffraction and Radiation Problems

358

(2)

8.3.2 Exciting and Restoring Forces; Added Mass and Radiation Damping for a Body of Arbitrary Shape

360

(2)

8.4 Formal Representations of Velocity Potential when h = Constant

362

(8)

8.4.1 Away from the Body

362

(4)

8.4.2 The Entire Fluid Domain

366

(4)

8.5 Scattering by a Vertical Cylinder with Circular Cross Section

370

(7)

8.6 General Identities for the Diffraction and Radiation of Simple Harmonic Waves

377

(12)

8.6.1 Relations between Two Radiation Problems and their Consequences

378

(2)

8.6.2 Relations between Two Diffraction Problems

380

(5)

8.6.3 One Diffraction Problem and One Radiation Problem

385

(4)

8.7 Numerical Solution by Hybrid Element Method

389

(10)

8.7.1 The Variational Formulation

390

(2)

8.7.2 The Approximate Solution

392

(3)

8.7.3 A Numerical Example

395

(4)

8.8 Remarks on the Numerical Methods by Integral Equations

399

(5)

8.8.1 The Integral Equations

399

(2)

8.8.2 Irregular Frequencies

401

(3)

8.9 Wave Power Extraction

404

(33)

8.9.1 Introduction

404

(3)

8.9.2 Optimum Efficiency of Three-Dimensional Absorbers

407

(14)

8.9.3 A Two-Dimensional Beam-Sea Absorber-Salter's Cam (Duck)

421

(6)

8.9.4 Circular Buoy Converter

427

(3)

8.9.5 Oscillating Water Column (OWC)

430

(7)

8.10 Trapped Modes Near a Mobile Storm Barrier

437

(10)

8.10.1 The Two-Gate Mode in an Infinitely Long Barrier

439

(4)

8.10.2 Multi-Gate Modes in a Barrier of Finite Length

443

(4)

8.11 Drift Forces

447

(7)

8.12 Principles of Calculating the Transient Motion of a Floating Body

454

(8)

8.12.1 Radiated Waves Caused by Impulsive Motion of a Floating Body

454

(3)

8.12.2 Relation to the Frequency Response

457

(2)

8.12.3 Exciting Force Caused by Scattering of Transient Incident Waves

459

(2)

8.12.4 Linearized Equations of Transient Motion of a Floating Body

461

(1)

Appendix 8.A: Derivation of Green's Function

462

(4)

Appendix 8.B: Radiation Problem for a Heaving Buoy

466

(3)

Appendix 8.C: Radiation Problem for OWC

469

(4)

9 Damping of Small-Amplitude Waves

473

(56)

9.1 Introduction

473

(1)

9.2 Linearized Equations of Viscous Flows and the Laminar Boundary Layer

473

(4)

9.3 Damping Rate and the Process of Energy Transfer

477

(8)

9.3.1 The Entire Fluid

481

(1)

9.3.2 Meniscus Boundary Layer

482

(1)

9.3.3 Wall Boundary Layer

483

(1)

9.3.4 Interior Core

484

(1)

9.3.5 The Damping Rate

484

(1)

9.4 Damping Rate by a Perturbation Analysis

485

(6)

9.5 Details for Standing Waves in a Circular Basin

491

(6)

9.6 The Effect of Air on the Damping of Deep Water Waves

497

(5)

9.7 The Turbulent Boundary Layer Near a Rough Bottom

502

(7)

9.7.1 The Boundary-Layer Structure

502

(3)

9.7.2 The Friction Coefficient

505

(2)

9.7.3 Bottom Friction on the Damping of Standing Shallow-Water Waves in a Basin

507

(2)

9.8 Waves Through a Model Marine Forest

509

(19)

9.8.1 A Simple Model of Interstitial Turbulence

510

(2)

9.8.2 Governing Equations for the Interstitial Flow

512

(3)

9.8.3 Sinusoidal Waves

515

(7)

9.8.4 Transient Waves

522

(5)

9.8.5 Further Development

527

(1)

Appendix 9.A: An Equipartition Theorem

528

(1)

References

529

(20)

Subject Index

I-1

Theory and Applications of Oceans Surface Waves: Part 2: Nonlinear Aspects

Preface to Part 2 of 2017 Edition

vii

Preface to Part 2

10 Mass Transport Due to Viscosity

549

(38)

10.1 Introduction

549

(1)

10.2 Mass Transport Near the Sea Bottom-General Theory

550

(8)

10.3 Bottom Mass Transport Under a Long Crested Wave

558

(9)

10.4 Bottom Mass Transport Near a Small Structure

567

(5)

10.5 Remarks on Induced Streaming Outside the Stokes Boundary Layer

572

(4)

10.6 Creeping Flow Theory of Mass Transport in a Channel of Finite Depth

576

(9)

10.7 Further References

585

(2)

11 Radiation Stresses, Bound Long Waves and Longshore Current

587

(64)

11.1 Introduction

587

(2)

11.2 Depth and Time-Averaged Equations for the Mean Motion

589

(12)

11.2.1 Averaged Equation of Mass Conservation

590

(1)

11.2.2 Averaged Equations of Momentum Conservation

591

(4)

11.2.3 Some Preliminary Simplifications

595

(5)

11.2.4 Summary of Approximate Averaged Equations

600

(1)

11.3 Radiation Stresses in the Shoaling Zone-Small-Amplitude Waves on Constant or Nearly Constant Depth

601

(4)

11.4 Long Waves Forced by Radiation Stress of Short Waves

605

(5)

11.4.1 Set-Down or Bound Long Wave

606

(1)

11.4.2 Parasitic Long Seiches in a Wave Flume

607

(3)

11.5 Empirical Knowledge of Breaking Waves

610

(5)

11.5.1 Breaking of Standing Waves on a Slope

610

(2)

11.5.2 Types of Breakers on Mild Beaches

612

(1)

11.5.3 Maximum Wave Height

613

(2)

11.6 The Structure of a Uniform Longshore Current on a Plane Beach

615

(8)

11.6.1 Shoaling Zone: x > xb

615

(3)

11.6.2 Surf Zone: x < xb

618

(5)

11.7 Other Empirical Hypotheses or Improvements

623

(7)

11.7.1 Bottom Friction

623

(5)

11.7.2 Lateral Turbulent Diffusion S"xy

628

(2)

11.8 Currents Behind an Offshore Breakwater

630

(12)

11.8.1 The Wave Field

632

(5)

11.8.2 The Mean Motion

637

(5)

11.9 Currents Around a Conical Island

642

(6)

11.9.1 The Wave Field

643

(1)

11.9.2 The Mean Motion

643

(5)

11.10 Related Works on Nearshore Currents

648

(3)

12 Nonlinear Long Waves in Shallow Water

651

(136)

12.1 Derivation and Classification of Approximate Equations

651

(9)

12.2 Nondispersive Waves in Water of Constant Depth

660

(10)

12.2.1 Analogy to Gas Dynamics

660

(1)

12.2.2 Method of Characteristics for One-Dimensional Problems

661

(4)

12.2.3 Simple Waves and Constant States

665

(1)

12.2.4 Expansion and Compression Waves-Tendency of Breaking

666

(4)

12.3 Nonbreaking Waves on a Slope

670

(12)

12.3.1 Standing Waves of Finite Amplitude

673

(4)

12.3.2 Matching with Deep Water

677

(3)

12.3.3 Transient Responses to Initial Inputs

680

(2)

12.4 Subharmpnic Resonance of Edge Waves

682

(14)

12.4.1 Perfect Tuning

684

(6)

12.4.2 Effects of Detuning

690

(6)

12.5 Dispersive Long Waves of Permanent Form and the Korteweg-De Vries (KdV) Equation

696

(10)

12.5.1 Solitary Waves

697

(2)

12.5.2 Cnoidal Waves

699

(6)

12.5.3 The Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) Equation

705

(1)

12.6 Nonlinear Dispersive Standing Waves on a Horizontal Bottom

706

(4)

12.7 Evolution of an Initial Pulse

710

(7)

12.8 Fission of Solitons by Decreasing Depth

717

(4)

12.9 Viscous Damping of Solitary Waves

721

(8)

12.10 Remarks on Modeling Large-Scale Tsunamis

729

(7)

12.11 Evolution of Periodic Waves Over Constant Depth-Harmonic Generation

736

(16)

12.11.1 The Initial Development of Near-Resonant Interaction in Water of Constant Depth

739

(4)

12.11.2 Governing Equations for Coupled Harmonics

743

(2)

12.11.3 Exact Solution of the Two-Harmonics Problem

745

(7)

12.12 Nonlinear Resonance in a Narrow Bay

752

(8)

12.13 Solitons Ahead of a Ship Advancing in a River

760

(12)

12.14 Localization of Solitons Over a Randomly Rough Seabed

772

(8)

12.14.1 Asymptotic Equation for Uni-Directional Waves

772

(5)

12.14.2 Gaussian Correlation Function

777

(2)

12.14.3 Computed Results of Soliton Evolution Over a Long Rough Seabed

779

(1)

Appendix 12.A: Evaluation of Certain Integrals in Section 12.4

780

(2)

Appendix 12.B: Reduction of an Integral in Section 12.9

782

(1)

Appendix 12.C: The Square of a Fourier Series

783

(1)

Appendix 12.D: Details of Random Forcing

784

(1)

Appendix 12.E: Details of beta

785

(2)

13 Narrow-Banded Nonlinear Waves in Water of Intermediate or Great Depth

787

(98)

13.1 Introduction

787

(2)

13.2 Evolution Equations for Slowly Modulated Weakly Nonlinear Waves Over Horizontal Seabed

789

(11)

13.2.1 Intermediate Depth

789

(9)

13.2.2 Deep Water Limit

798

(2)

13.3 Uniform Stokes' Waves

800

(2)

13.4 Side-Band Instability of Stokes' Waves

802

(10)

13.5 Permanent Envelopes in Deep Water: Nonlinear Solutions of the Evolution Equation

812

(4)

13.6 Transient Evolution of One-Dimensional Wave Envelope on Deep Water

816

(18)

13.6.1 Evolution of a Single Pulse

821

(5)

13.6.2 Evolution of the Front of a Uniform Wavetrain

826

(2)

13.6.3 Periodic Modulation of a Uniform Wavetrain-Evolution Beyond the Initial Stage of Instability

828

(3)

13.6.4 Rogue Waves

831

(3)

13.7 Infragravity Waves Over Slowly Varying Depth

834

(13)

13.7.1 Equation for Long Waves Forced by One Train of Short Waves

834

(4)

13.7.2 Short-Wave Envelope

838

(3)

13.7.3 Mean Sea-Level

841

(2)

13.7.4 Free and Bound Infragravity Waves

843

(4)

13.8 Infragravity Waves Over Periodic Bars

847

(6)

13.9 Remarks on Third-Order Effects of Short Waves Over Slowing Varying Depth

853

(1)

13.10 Diffraction of Steady Stokes' Waves by a Thin Wedge or a Slightly Slanted Breakwater

854

(7)

13.11 Soliton Envelopes in the Wake of a Ship

861

(9)

13.12 Second-Order Diffraction by a Vertical Cylinder

870

(11)

13.12.1 First-Order Solution

871

(1)

13.12.2 The Second-Order Problem

872

(1)

13.12.3 Second-Order Forcing

873

(2)

13.12.4 Second-Order Boundary-Value Problems

875

(1)

13.12.5 Response to I

875

(2)

13.12.6 Response to S

877

(4)

13.12.7 Sample Numerical Results

881

(1)

Appendix 13.A: Asymptotic Behavior epsilon0 in the Far-Field

881

(1)

Appendix 13.B: Weak Radiation Condition

882

(3)

14 Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea

885

(50)

14.1 Background

886

(2)

14.2 Fourier Formulation

888

(4)

14.3 Multiple Time Scales

892

(5)

14.4 Conditions for Quartet Resonance

897

(3)

14.5 Simple Solutions

900

(2)

14.6 Interaction of Two Waves

902

(1)

14.7 Interaction of Four Waves (Quartet Interaction)

903

(9)

14.7.1 Reduction to One Unknown

904

(3)

14.7.2 Solution for Periodic Envelopes

907

(3)

14.7.3 Steady-State Quartets

910

(2)

14.8 The Cubic Schrodinger Equation

912

(2)

14.9 Benjamin-Feir Instability of Stokes Waves

914

(6)

14.10 Kinetic Equation of Hasselmann

920

(5)

14.11 Extensions

925

(2)

Appendix 14.A: Details of Derivation

927

(4)

Appendix 14.A.1 Fourier Transforms of the Free Surface Conditions

927

(1)

Appendix 14.A.2 Surface Properties for Waves of Small Steepness

928

(1)

Appendix 14.A.3 Inverting (14.2.9) by Iteration

929

(2)

Appendix 14.B: Kernels

931

(4)

15 Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics

935

(202)

15.1 Introduction

935

(2)

15.2 General Initial Boundary-Value Problem

937

(1)

15.3 High-Order Spectral (HOS) Method

938

(14)

15.3.1 Mathematical Formulation

940

(6)

15.3.2 Numerical Implementation

946

(1)

15.3.3 Error Considerations

947

(3)

15.3.4 Relation to Frequency-Domain Perturbation Results

950

(2)

15.4 Applications of HOS to Nonlinear Wave-Wave, Wave-Current, and Wave-Bottom Interactions

952

(40)

15.4.1 Stokes Waves

952

(3)

15.4.2 Wave Steepening

955

(3)

15.4.3 Modulation of a Stokes Wave Train Due to Type I Instabilities

958

(4)

15.4.4 Evolution of a Wave Packet

962

(3)

15.4.5 Nonlinear Three-Dimensional Waves Due to a Moving Surface Disturbance

965

(7)

15.4.6 Nonlinear Wave Interaction with Ambient Current

972

(7)

15.4.7 Generalized Bragg Scattering of Surface Waves by Bottom Ripples

979

(13)

15.5 HOS Method for Nonlinear Wave Interaction with Submerged Bodies

992

(12)

15.5.1 Mathematical Formulation

992

(2)

15.5.2 Numerical Implementation

994

(2)

15.5.3 Application to Nonlinear Wave Diffraction by A Submerged Circular Cylinder

996

(8)

15.6 High-Order Spectral Element (HOSE) Method

1004

(15)

15.6.1 Mathematical Formulation

1005

(3)

15.6.2 Numerical Implementation

1008

(4)

15.6.3 Application of HOSE to the Study of Stability of Standing Waves in a Circular Tank

1012

(7)

15.7 Nonlinear Wave-Field Evolution by Large-Scale HOS Computations

1019

(27)

15.7.1 Direct Wave-Field Simulation Using HOS

1021

(3)

15.7.2 Spectral Evolution and Nonlinear Wave Statistics

1024

(9)

15.7.3 Probability of Rogue Wave Occurrence

1033

(13)

15.8 Mixed Euler-Lagrangian Method

1046

(68)

15.8.1 Cauchy's Integral Formulation

1047

(3)

15.8.2 Green's Integral Formulation

1050

(7)

15.8.3 Numerical Implementation

1057

(5)

15.8.4 Application to Two-and Three-Dimensional Breaking Waves

1062

(18)

15.8.5 Application to Steep Crescent Waves

1080

(8)

15.8.6 Application to Free-Surface Flow Over an Impulsively Started Point Sink

1088

(8)

15.8.7 Application to Plunging Wave Impact on a Vertical Wall

1096

(10)

15.8.8 Application to Nonlinear Wave Interaction with Floating Bodies

1106

(8)

15.9 PFFT-Accelerated Boundary Element Methods

1114

(23)

15.9.1 Mathematical Formulation

1116

(6)

15.9.2 Determination of Interpolation Function H(epsilon)

1122

(2)

15.9.3 Numerical Implementation

1124

(2)

15.9.4 Accuracy and Efficiency of the PFFT Algorithm

1126

(4)

15.9.5 Comparison of PFFT-QBEM with PFFT-CPM

1130

(2)

15.9.6 PFFT-BEMs for Fully-Nonlinear Initial Boundary-Value Problems

1132

(5)

References

1137

Subject Index

I-1

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E-grāmata: Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes)

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