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VOLUME V Fashionable Things |
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| Acknowledgements |
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xii | |
| Bibliography |
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xiii | |
| Introduction to Volume V: Fashionable Things |
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1 | (16) |
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PART 1 Embodying Fashionability |
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17 | (150) |
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19 | (6) |
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1 H. R. H., `A Complaint' |
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25 | (2) |
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2 Mrs Merrifield, `How Far Should the Fashions be Followed?' |
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27 | (3) |
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3 [ Anon], `Conduct and Carriage; Or, Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World' |
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30 | (6) |
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4 [ Caroline Stephen], `Thoughtfulness in Dress' |
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36 | (17) |
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5 [ Anon], `A Lady's Question: What Shall We Wear?' |
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53 | (6) |
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6 E. P. [ Emily Pfeiffer], `The Tyranny of Fashion' |
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59 | (12) |
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7 Mrs H. R. Haweis, `Importance of Dress' |
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71 | (4) |
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8 [ Anon], Statement and `Editorial Note', The Rational Dress Society's Gazette |
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75 | (10) |
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1.2 Outlines; contours; boundaries |
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77 | (2) |
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1.2.1 Shaping the silhouette: the corset and the crinolette |
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79 | (6) |
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9 Madame Roxey A. [ Ann] Caplin, `On Gestation' |
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85 | (7) |
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10 Image: advertisement, `The London Corset Company' |
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92 | (1) |
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11 Image: photograph of crinolette, Great Britain, ca. 1870 (made) |
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93 | (6) |
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1.2.2 The `Grecian Bend', `Little Feet' and the `Alexandra Limp' |
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95 | (4) |
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12 Uncle Grumbler, `"The Grecian Bend'" |
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99 | (3) |
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13 S. L. B., `The Lady with the Little Feet' |
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102 | (17) |
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14 Image: [ Anon], `"The Grecian Bend"' |
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119 | (1) |
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15 [ Anon], `General News' |
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120 | (1) |
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16 [ Anon], `Fashion's Follies' |
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121 | (6) |
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1.2.3 The `Dolly Varden': a literary fashion |
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123 | (4) |
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17 Charles Dickens, Barnaby Rudge; A Tale of the Riots of Eighty |
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127 | (1) |
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18 Image: G. W. Hunt, `Dolly Varden' (music title page) |
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128 | (1) |
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19 The Silkworm, `Spinnings in Town' |
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129 | (1) |
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20 [ Anon], `Dolly Vardens' |
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130 | (2) |
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21 [ Anon], `Observations on London and Parisian Fashions' |
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132 | (7) |
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133 | (6) |
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22 [ Anon], `Materials for the Toilette. VIII. On Cosmetics' |
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139 | (2) |
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23 Advertisement for Pears's Rouge & Pears's Pearl Powder |
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141 | (1) |
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142 | (1) |
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25 Charles Reade, `A Simpleton. A Story of the Day' |
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143 | (3) |
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26 Medicus, `The Toilet-Table, and What Should Lie Thereon' |
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146 | (4) |
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27 Advertorial for Rice-Powder |
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150 | (1) |
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28 `Safe Complexion Lotions' |
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151 | (8) |
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153 | (6) |
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29 Image: [ Anon], `The Honeymoon' |
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159 | (1) |
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30 M. E. Braddon, Lady Andley's Secret |
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160 | (1) |
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31 [ Anon], `Insane Female Fashions. Bunches of False Hair Behind' |
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161 | (1) |
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32 [ Anon], `Chignons Doomed' |
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162 | (1) |
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33 [ Anon], `L'EAU DES FEES' |
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163 | (1) |
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34 Image: Advertisement for Latreille's Hyperion Hair Restorer in Montagu Browne, Practical Taxidermy: A Manual of Instruction to the Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting Up Natural History Specimens of All Kinds. To Which is Added a
Chapter Upon the Pictorial Arrangement of Museums |
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164 | (1) |
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35 Thomas Hardy, Jude the Obscure |
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165 | (1) |
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36 Image: Advertisement for Unwin & Albert, Ladies' Ornamental Hair Workers and Expert Wig Makers |
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166 | (1) |
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167 | (112) |
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2.1 Wedding dress and accoutrements |
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169 | (8) |
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37 Celata, `My Wedding Ring' |
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177 | (1) |
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38 Image: Elizabeth Henderson, Fashion Plate, `Public promenade and bridal dresses' |
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178 | (1) |
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39 Aunt Lydia, `Letter From Aunt Lydia About Orange-Blossoms' |
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179 | (3) |
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40 C. Sears Lancaster, `My Wedding-Bonnet' |
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182 | (8) |
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41 Image: photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron, `Dora as the Bride' |
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190 | (1) |
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42 Image: Edward Killingworth Johnson, drawing depicting a young widow holding her wedding dress |
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191 | (1) |
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43 Alice Maud Meadows, `May's Wedding Dress' |
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192 | (1) |
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44 [ Anon], `Modern Weddings' |
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193 | (2) |
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45 Image: [ Anon], `Wedding Costume' |
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195 | (1) |
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46 [ Anon], `The Trousseau of To-Day' |
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196 | (6) |
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47 Dora De Blaquiere, `The Trousseau of To-Day. Part II' |
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202 | (15) |
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207 | (10) |
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48 Helen, `Lines on Giving Up Wearing a Locket of Hair' |
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217 | (1) |
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49 Image: mourning brooches containing the hair of a deceased relative |
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218 | (1) |
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50 [ Elizabeth Gaskell], Mary Barton: A Tale of Manchester Life |
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219 | (3) |
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51 [ Anon], `The Paris and London Fashions' |
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222 | (4) |
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52 [ Anon], `Conduct and Carriage; Or, Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World' |
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226 | (3) |
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53 [ Anon], `Fancy Black' |
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229 | (1) |
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54 [ M. E. Braddon], The Doctor `sWife |
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230 | (1) |
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55 Image: William Halford & Charles Young, Manufacturing Jewellers, The Jewellers `Book of Patterns in Hair Work: Containing A Great Variety of Copper-plate Engravings of Devices and Patterns in Hair; suitable for Mourning Jewellery, Brooches, Rings, Guards, Alberts, Necklets, Lockets, Bracelets, Miniatures, Studs, Links, Earrings, &c., &c., &c. |
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231 | (2) |
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56 Image: photograph by Julia Margaret Cameron, `A young woman in mourning dress', 1868/1872 |
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233 | (1) |
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57 The Silkworm, `Spinnings in Town' |
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234 | (3) |
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58 Sylvia, `On the Etiquette of Mourning' |
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237 | (4) |
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59 [ Anon], `Mourning as a Fashion' |
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241 | (1) |
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60 E.M.Davy, `A Glove's Evidence' |
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242 | (2) |
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61 Image: [ Anon], `Some Summer Dresses For Mourning Wear' |
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244 | (1) |
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62 [ Anon], `Fashion in Mourning' |
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245 | (12) |
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249 | (2) |
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251 | (6) |
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63 Image: [ John Leech], `The Chatelaine; A Really Useful Present' |
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257 | (1) |
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64 Image: cut-steel chatelaine with attachments, England, ca. 1863-1885 |
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258 | (1) |
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65 Image: `Novelties in Jewellery' |
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259 | (1) |
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66 [ Anon], `A Parisian Toilette' |
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260 | (2) |
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67 [ Anon], `The Return of the Chatelaine' in `Our Home Circle. Notes and Hints by a Lady' |
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262 | (9) |
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263 | (8) |
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68 [ Anon], `A Word or Two About Cameos' |
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271 | (2) |
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69 [ Anon], `Coral Jewellery and Peasant Ornaments' |
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273 | (1) |
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70 George Eliot, Middlemarch: A Study of Provincial Life |
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274 | (1) |
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71 Image: advertisement, `The "Beatrice" Silver and Gold Jewellery' |
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275 | (1) |
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72 [ Anon], `Jewels, and How to Wear Them' |
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276 | (1) |
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73 Image: [ Anon], `The Latest Ideas in Jewellery Seen at Swan and Edgar's, Piccadilly and Regent Street' |
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277 | (2) |
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PART 3 Animal and Insect Accessories; Home Decoration |
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279 | (2) |
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3.1 Animals and insects as adornments and home decorations |
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281 | (9) |
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74 [ Anon], `The Best French Kid Gloves' |
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290 | (2) |
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75 William Kidd, `The Fairy Bird-Cage' |
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292 | (2) |
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76 Mrs Henry [ Ellen] Wood, East Lynne |
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294 | (2) |
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77 Image: untitled fashion plate |
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296 | (1) |
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78 [ Anon], `The Fashions' |
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297 | (2) |
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79 P. L. Simmonds, `Art-Inroads on Natural History' |
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299 | (6) |
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80 [ Anon], `BEETLE-WINGS' (`Enquiries'; Enquiry from `ELSIE') [ a] and [ Anon], `BEETLE-WINGS (ELSIE)' (`Answers to Enquiries'; Response to `ELSIE') [ b] |
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305 | (1) |
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81 [ Anon], `The Strange Story of a Sealskin. A Tale of Metempsychosis' |
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306 | (3) |
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82 [ Anon], `"Living Jewellery'" |
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309 | (1) |
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83 Montagu Browne, Practical Taxidermy: A Manual of Instruction to the Amateur in Collecting, Preserving, and Setting Up Natural History Specimens of All Kinds. To Which is Added a
Chapter Upon the Pictorial Arrangement of Museums |
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310 | (2) |
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84 [ Mrs] M. E. Haweis, `Smashed Birds' |
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312 | (6) |
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85 [ Anon], `Christmas & New Year Gifts' |
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318 | (2) |
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86 J. H., `New Styles in Furs' |
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320 | (3) |
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87 C. W. Gedney, `Victims of Vanity' |
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323 | (10) |
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333 | (63) |
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88 [ Anon], Potichomania; Or, the Art of Imitating Porcelain |
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341 | (2) |
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89 Mrs. [ Rebekah] Skill, `Introduction', The Art of Modelling Wax Flowers, Fully And Clearly Explained, Accompanied with Accurate Patterns for Various Flowers, Decorations for Tinting, &c, By Which The Attainment Of This Elegant Art Becomes Simple and Easy |
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343 | (4) |
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90 [ Anon], `Curiosities of Industry Among the Ladies' |
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347 | (8) |
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91 [ Anon], `Weaving or Plaiting Hair Ornaments' and `Ornamental Bead and Bugle Work' |
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355 | (16) |
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92 [ Anon], `Lady's Card-Case in Gold Thread with Steel Beads on Kid' |
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371 | (2) |
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93 [ Anon], `Imitation White Coral Basket' |
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373 | (2) |
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94 [ Anon], `Household Decorative Art. II - Diaphanie' |
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375 | (3) |
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95 [ Anon], `The Fair Hand. A Story For Girls' |
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378 | (3) |
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96 [ Anon], `A Sea-Weed Album' |
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381 | (1) |
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97 [ Anon], `Uses for Shells and Sea-Weeds' |
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382 | (4) |
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98 Dora Hope, `How to Preserve Leaves and Flowers' |
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386 | (6) |
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99 [ Anon], `Answers to Correspondents' |
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392 | (1) |
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100 John Strange Winter [ Henrietta Eliza Vaughan Stannard], Mignon's Secret |
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393 | (2) |
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101 [ Anon], `Editorial Notes' |
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395 | (1) |
| Index |
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396 | |
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