Preface to the Second Edition |
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v | |
Acknowledgements |
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ix | |
List of Symbols |
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xi | |
1 Introduction |
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1 | (21) |
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1.1 What is this Book About? |
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1 | (7) |
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8 | (5) |
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1.3 Who is this Book Intended For? |
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13 | (5) |
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1.4 How is this Book Organised? |
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18 | (4) |
2 Morphodynamic Feedback |
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22 | (61) |
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22 | (3) |
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2.2 Time-Symmetry Breaking |
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25 | (10) |
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25 | (3) |
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28 | (7) |
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2.3 Spatial Symmetry Breaking |
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35 | (12) |
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2.3.1 Morphodynamic Feedback to Seabed Perturbation |
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35 | (5) |
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40 | (7) |
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2.4 Linear Stability Analysis |
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47 | (11) |
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47 | (6) |
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2.4.2 Perturbation Growth Towards a Finite Amplitude |
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53 | (5) |
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2.5 Instability of a Two-Channel System |
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58 | (24) |
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2.5.1 History of the Rhine Delta |
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60 | (6) |
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2.5.2 Principles of Channel Competition |
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66 | (13) |
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79 | (3) |
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2.6 Summary and Conclusions |
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82 | (1) |
3 Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport |
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83 | (77) |
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83 | (1) |
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84 | (11) |
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84 | (8) |
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3.2.2 Momentum Dissipation |
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92 | (3) |
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95 | (12) |
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3.3.1 Wave-Boundary Layer |
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96 | (9) |
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3.3.2 Wave-Current Interaction |
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105 | (2) |
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3.4 Non-Cohesive Sediments |
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107 | (10) |
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3.4.1 Suspension and Settling |
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108 | (8) |
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116 | (1) |
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117 | (14) |
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3.5.1 Suspension and Settling |
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117 | (7) |
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124 | (2) |
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3.5.3 Deposition and Erosion |
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126 | (5) |
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131 | (4) |
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135 | (4) |
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135 | (2) |
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3.7.2 Suspension and Settling Lag |
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137 | (2) |
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139 | (18) |
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141 | (6) |
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3.8.2 Suspended-Load Transport |
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147 | (6) |
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3.8.3 Total-Load Transport |
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153 | (4) |
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3.9 Summary and Conclusions |
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157 | (3) |
4 Current-Seabed Interaction |
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160 | (96) |
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160 | (3) |
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163 | (31) |
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4.2.1 Qualitative Description |
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163 | (8) |
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171 | (3) |
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4.2.3 Dune Genesis in Steady Flow |
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174 | (13) |
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4.2.4 Dune Formation in Tidal Flow |
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187 | (3) |
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190 | (4) |
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194 | (15) |
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4.3.1 Bottom Ripples in Steady Flow |
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194 | (8) |
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4.3.2 Wave-Induced Ripples |
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202 | (7) |
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209 | (5) |
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214 | (37) |
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4.5.1 Qualitative Description |
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214 | (5) |
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219 | (3) |
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4.5.3 Zimmerman's Qualitative Ridge Formation Model |
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222 | (7) |
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4.5.4 Huthnance's Analytic Ridge Formation Model |
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229 | (10) |
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4.5.5 Shoreface-Connected Ridges |
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239 | (6) |
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4.5.6 Trowbridge's Model for Shoreface-Connected Ridges |
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245 | (6) |
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4.6 Summary and Conclusions |
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251 | (5) |
5 Current-Channel Interaction |
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256 | (57) |
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256 | (1) |
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5.2 Morphology of Rivers and Tidal Channels |
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257 | (8) |
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257 | (2) |
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5.2.2 Bedforms in Tidal Channels |
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259 | (6) |
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5.3 Alternating Bars in Rivers |
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265 | (24) |
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5.3.1 A Simple Model for Alternating-Bar Genesis |
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269 | (13) |
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5.3.2 Development of River Meanders |
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282 | (7) |
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5.4 Tidal Channel Meanders |
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289 | (9) |
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298 | (9) |
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5.5.1 Tidal Flat Sedimentation |
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298 | (3) |
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301 | (3) |
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5.5.3 Feedback between Channel and Tidal-Flat Dynamics |
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304 | (3) |
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307 | (2) |
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307 | (1) |
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5.6.2 Interrelated Dynamics of Tidal Flats and Marshes |
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308 | (1) |
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5.7 Summary and Conclusions |
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309 | (4) |
6 Tide-Topography Interaction |
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313 | (159) |
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313 | (1) |
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314 | (38) |
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6.2.1 Tidal Inlet Characteristics |
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314 | (7) |
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321 | (3) |
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324 | (14) |
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338 | (11) |
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349 | (3) |
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352 | (43) |
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354 | (12) |
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366 | (9) |
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6.3.3 Slack-Water Asymmetry |
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375 | (3) |
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6.3.4 Asymmetry of Shelf Tides |
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378 | (4) |
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6.3.5 Influence of Human Interventions on Tidal Propagation |
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382 | (13) |
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6.4 Equilibrium of Estuaries |
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395 | (22) |
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6.4.1 Residual Sediment Transport |
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399 | (2) |
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6.4.2 Equilibrium Convergence Length |
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401 | (9) |
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6.4.3 Equilibrium at the Sea Boundary |
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410 | (2) |
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6.4.4 Other Processes that Influence Sediment Transport |
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412 | (5) |
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6.5 Equilibrium of Tidal Inlets without River Inflow |
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417 | (29) |
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6.5.1 Equilibrium Morphology |
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417 | (12) |
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6.5.2 Other Processes that Influence Sediment Transport |
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429 | (4) |
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6.5.3 Morphodynamic Stability |
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433 | (6) |
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6.5.4 Response to Mean Sea-Level Rise |
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439 | (4) |
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6.5.5 Other Models for Lagoon Response to Sea-Level Rise |
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443 | (3) |
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6.6 Transport of Fine Sediment |
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446 | (19) |
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6.6.1 Transport Processes |
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446 | (3) |
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6.6.2 Settling and Resuspension Lag |
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449 | (9) |
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458 | (7) |
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6.7 Summary and Conclusions |
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465 | (7) |
7 Wave-Topography Interaction |
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472 | (149) |
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472 | (2) |
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7.2 Morphology of Sandy Shores |
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474 | (26) |
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7.2.1 The Coastal Profile |
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475 | (10) |
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485 | (6) |
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491 | (4) |
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495 | (2) |
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497 | (3) |
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7.3 Wind Waves Over a Shallow Seabed |
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500 | (15) |
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500 | (4) |
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7.3.2 Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone |
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504 | (9) |
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7.3.3 Wave-Induced Cross-Shore Sediment Transport |
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513 | (2) |
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515 | (15) |
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7.4.1 Response to Sea-Level Rise |
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515 | (4) |
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519 | (6) |
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7.4.3 Long-Term Large-Scale Coastal Behaviour |
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525 | (2) |
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527 | (3) |
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530 | (44) |
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7.5.1 Large-Scale Shoreline Stability |
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530 | (6) |
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7.5.2 High-Angle Wave Instability (HAWI) |
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536 | (7) |
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7.5.3 Medium-Scale Shoreline Patterns |
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543 | (3) |
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546 | (6) |
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7.5.5 Crescentic Bars and Rip Channels |
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552 | (11) |
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563 | (5) |
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568 | (6) |
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7.6 Coastal Profile Dynamics |
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574 | (20) |
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7.6.1 Shoreface Profile Models |
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575 | (11) |
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7.6.2 Longshore Breaker Bars |
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586 | (8) |
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594 | (22) |
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7.7.1 Shoreline Fluctuations |
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595 | (5) |
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7.7.2 Interruption of Littoral Drift |
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600 | (2) |
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7.7.3 Coastal Erosion Control |
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602 | (14) |
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7.8 Summary and Conclusions |
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616 | (5) |
Appendix A: Basic Equations of Fluid Motion |
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621 | (10) |
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A.1 General Nature of the Basic Equations |
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621 | (4) |
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A.2 Water Motion in Three Dimensions |
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625 | (1) |
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A.3 Horizontal Flow Equations |
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626 | (1) |
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627 | (2) |
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629 | (2) |
Appendix B: Tidal Propagation in One Dimension |
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631 | (23) |
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631 | (5) |
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B.2 Simplification of Tidal Equations |
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636 | (2) |
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B.3 Nonlinear Tides in a Uniform Channel |
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638 | (8) |
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B.4 Tidal Wave in a Uniform Basin of Finite Length |
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646 | (8) |
Appendix C: Ocean and Shelf Tides |
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654 | (11) |
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654 | (4) |
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658 | (4) |
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C.3 Tidal Distortion Along the Coast |
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662 | (3) |
Appendix D: Wind Waves |
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665 | (26) |
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665 | (11) |
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665 | (5) |
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670 | (6) |
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D.2 Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone |
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676 | (4) |
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D.2.1 Wave Energy Dissipation |
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676 | (2) |
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678 | (2) |
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680 | (10) |
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D.3.1 Shore-normal Wave Incidence |
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681 | (3) |
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D.3.2 Oblique Wave Incidence |
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684 | (6) |
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690 | (1) |
Bibliography |
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691 | |