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E-grāmata: Dynamics Of Coastal Systems (Second Edition)

(Netherlands Centre Of Coastal Research, The Netherlands)
  • Formāts: 780 pages
  • Sērija : Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering 41
  • Izdošanas datums: 19-Aug-2016
  • Izdevniecība: World Scientific Publishing Co Pte Ltd
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9789814725163
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Dynamics Of Coastal Systems (Second Edition)Palielināt
  • Formāts: 780 pages
  • Sērija : Advanced Series On Ocean Engineering 41
  • Izdošanas datums: 19-Aug-2016
  • Izdevniecība: World Scientific Publishing Co Pte Ltd
  • Valoda: eng
  • ISBN-13: 9789814725163
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The book provides a comprehensive and up-to-date overview of the physical processes which, according to the present state of knowledge, determine the evolution of coastal systems and their response to human interventions. This response depends to a large degree on the self-organising properties of coastal dynamics, which form a leading theme throughout the book. The basic theoretical ideas are explained in text and figures and also in formulas for the more mathematically inclined reader. Theories are illustrated with examples from estuaries, coastal lagoons, beaches and tidal flat systems from all over the world. The rules and simple models can be used directly without relying on complex computations; much attention is given to the strengths and weaknesses of the underlying theories and their limits of applicability. The book is fully self-contained; some knowledge of basic physics and mathematics is recommended. The book is an upgrade of the first edition. Most parts are rewritten and chapters are added to incorporate research results, new insight and experience of the past ten years. This book is intended for everyone interested in coastal systems for professional or educational reasons.
Preface to the Second Edition v
Acknowledgements ix
List of Symbols xi
1 Introduction 1(21)
1.1 What is this Book About?
1(7)
1.2 Why this Book?
8(5)
1.3 Who is this Book Intended For?
13(5)
1.4 How is this Book Organised?
18(4)
2 Morphodynamic Feedback 22(61)
2.1 Pattern Generation
22(3)
2.2 Time-Symmetry Breaking
25(10)
2.2.1 Wave Asymmetry
25(3)
2.2.2 Tidal Asymmetry
28(7)
2.3 Spatial Symmetry Breaking
35(12)
2.3.1 Morphodynamic Feedback to Seabed Perturbation
35(5)
2.3.2 Stability
40(7)
2.4 Linear Stability Analysis
47(11)
2.4.1 Initial Response
47(6)
2.4.2 Perturbation Growth Towards a Finite Amplitude
53(5)
2.5 Instability of a Two-Channel System
58(24)
2.5.1 History of the Rhine Delta
60(6)
2.5.2 Principles of Channel Competition
66(13)
2.5.3 The Bornrif Cycle
79(3)
2.6 Summary and Conclusions
82(1)
3 Boundary Layers and Sediment Transport 83(77)
3.1 Introduction
83(1)
3.2 Near-Bed Steady Flow
84(11)
3.2.1 Flow Layers
84(8)
3.2.2 Momentum Dissipation
92(3)
3.3 Near-Bed Wave Flow
95(12)
3.3.1 Wave-Boundary Layer
96(9)
3.3.2 Wave-Current Interaction
105(2)
3.4 Non-Cohesive Sediments
107(10)
3.4.1 Suspension and Settling
108(8)
3.4.2 Graded Sediment
116(1)
3.5 Cohesive Sediments
117(14)
3.5.1 Suspension and Settling
117(7)
3.5.2 Fluid Mud
124(2)
3.5.3 Deposition and Erosion
126(5)
3.6 Biotic Activity
131(4)
3.7 Bed Level Evolution
135(4)
3.7.1 Morphodynamics
135(2)
3.7.2 Suspension and Settling Lag
137(2)
3.8 Sediment Transport
139(18)
3.8.1 Bedload Transport
141(6)
3.8.2 Suspended-Load Transport
147(6)
3.8.3 Total-Load Transport
153(4)
3.9 Summary and Conclusions
157(3)
4 Current-Seabed Interaction 160(96)
4.1 Introduction
160(3)
4.2 Dunes
163(31)
4.2.1 Qualitative Description
163(8)
4.2.2 Feedback Mechanism
171(3)
4.2.3 Dune Genesis in Steady Flow
174(13)
4.2.4 Dune Formation in Tidal Flow
187(3)
4.2.5 Antidunes
190(4)
4.3 Ripples
194(15)
4.3.1 Bottom Ripples in Steady Flow
194(8)
4.3.2 Wave-Induced Ripples
202(7)
4.4 Sorted Bedforms
209(5)
4.5 Sandbanks
214(37)
4.5.1 Qualitative Description
214(5)
4.5.2 Tidal Sand Ridges
219(3)
4.5.3 Zimmerman's Qualitative Ridge Formation Model
222(7)
4.5.4 Huthnance's Analytic Ridge Formation Model
229(10)
4.5.5 Shoreface-Connected Ridges
239(6)
4.5.6 Trowbridge's Model for Shoreface-Connected Ridges
245(6)
4.6 Summary and Conclusions
251(5)
5 Current-Channel Interaction 256(57)
5.1 Introduction
256(1)
5.2 Morphology of Rivers and Tidal Channels
257(8)
5.2.1 Bedforms in Rivers
257(2)
5.2.2 Bedforms in Tidal Channels
259(6)
5.3 Alternating Bars in Rivers
265(24)
5.3.1 A Simple Model for Alternating-Bar Genesis
269(13)
5.3.2 Development of River Meanders
282(7)
5.4 Tidal Channel Meanders
289(9)
5.5 Tidal Flats
298(9)
5.5.1 Tidal Flat Sedimentation
298(3)
5.5.2 Tidal Flat Profile
301(3)
5.5.3 Feedback between Channel and Tidal-Flat Dynamics
304(3)
5.6 Salt Marshes
307(2)
5.6.1 Marsh Development
307(1)
5.6.2 Interrelated Dynamics of Tidal Flats and Marshes
308(1)
5.7 Summary and Conclusions
309(4)
6 Tide-Topography Interaction 313(159)
6.1 Introduction
313(1)
6.2 Tidal Inlets
314(38)
6.2.1 Tidal Inlet Characteristics
314(7)
6.2.2 Ebb-Tidal Deltas
321(3)
6.2.3 Tidal Lagoons
324(14)
6.2.4 Estuaries
338(11)
6.2.5 Other Inlet Types
349(3)
6.3 Tidal Motion
352(43)
6.3.1 Tide Propagation
354(12)
6.3.2 Tidal Asymmetry
366(9)
6.3.3 Slack-Water Asymmetry
375(3)
6.3.4 Asymmetry of Shelf Tides
378(4)
6.3.5 Influence of Human Interventions on Tidal Propagation
382(13)
6.4 Equilibrium of Estuaries
395(22)
6.4.1 Residual Sediment Transport
399(2)
6.4.2 Equilibrium Convergence Length
401(9)
6.4.3 Equilibrium at the Sea Boundary
410(2)
6.4.4 Other Processes that Influence Sediment Transport
412(5)
6.5 Equilibrium of Tidal Inlets without River Inflow
417(29)
6.5.1 Equilibrium Morphology
417(12)
6.5.2 Other Processes that Influence Sediment Transport
429(4)
6.5.3 Morphodynamic Stability
433(6)
6.5.4 Response to Mean Sea-Level Rise
439(4)
6.5.5 Other Models for Lagoon Response to Sea-Level Rise
443(3)
6.6 Transport of Fine Sediment
446(19)
6.6.1 Transport Processes
446(3)
6.6.2 Settling and Resuspension Lag
449(9)
6.6.3 Tidal Dispersion
458(7)
6.7 Summary and Conclusions
465(7)
7 Wave-Topography Interaction 472(149)
7.1 Introduction
472(2)
7.2 Morphology of Sandy Shores
474(26)
7.2.1 The Coastal Profile
475(10)
7.2.2 Swash
485(6)
7.2.3 Tidal Beaches
491(4)
7.2.4 Upper Beach
495(2)
7.2.5 Shoreline Patterns
497(3)
7.3 Wind Waves Over a Shallow Seabed
500(15)
7.3.1 Wave Types
500(4)
7.3.2 Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone
504(9)
7.3.3 Wave-Induced Cross-Shore Sediment Transport
513(2)
7.4 Coastal Genesis
515(15)
7.4.1 Response to Sea-Level Rise
515(4)
7.4.2 Coastline Retreat
519(6)
7.4.3 Long-Term Large-Scale Coastal Behaviour
525(2)
7.4.4 Pattern Formation
527(3)
7.5 Shoreline Dynamics
530(44)
7.5.1 Large-Scale Shoreline Stability
530(6)
7.5.2 High-Angle Wave Instability (HAWI)
536(7)
7.5.3 Medium-Scale Shoreline Patterns
543(3)
7.5.4 Shore-Normal Bars
546(6)
7.5.5 Crescentic Bars and Rip Channels
552(11)
7.5.6 Oblique Bars
563(5)
7.5.7 Beach Cusps
568(6)
7.6 Coastal Profile Dynamics
574(20)
7.6.1 Shoreface Profile Models
575(11)
7.6.2 Longshore Breaker Bars
586(8)
7.7 Coastal Erosion
594(22)
7.7.1 Shoreline Fluctuations
595(5)
7.7.2 Interruption of Littoral Drift
600(2)
7.7.3 Coastal Erosion Control
602(14)
7.8 Summary and Conclusions
616(5)
Appendix A: Basic Equations of Fluid Motion 621(10)
A.1 General Nature of the Basic Equations
621(4)
A.2 Water Motion in Three Dimensions
625(1)
A.3 Horizontal Flow Equations
626(1)
A.4 Earth's Rotation
627(2)
A.5 Vorticity Balance
629(2)
Appendix B: Tidal Propagation in One Dimension 631(23)
B.1 1D Tidal Equations
631(5)
B.2 Simplification of Tidal Equations
636(2)
B.3 Nonlinear Tides in a Uniform Channel
638(8)
B.4 Tidal Wave in a Uniform Basin of Finite Length
646(8)
Appendix C: Ocean and Shelf Tides 654(11)
C.1 Tide Generation
654(4)
C.2 Linear Tide
658(4)
C.3 Tidal Distortion Along the Coast
662(3)
Appendix D: Wind Waves 665(26)
D.1 Wave Theory
665(11)
D.1.1 Linear Theory
665(5)
D.1.2 Wave Skewness
670(6)
D.2 Wave Transformation in the Surf Zone
676(4)
D.2.1 Wave Energy Dissipation
676(2)
D.2.2 Radiation Stress
678(2)
D.3 Wave-induced Flow
680(10)
D.3.1 Shore-normal Wave Incidence
681(3)
D.3.2 Oblique Wave Incidence
684(6)
D.4 Infragravity Waves
690(1)
Bibliography 691
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