This book includes fundamentals of textile processing technology with explanation of craft techniques, various stages of processing fibres and yarns with useful, readily understandable, line drawings. Fibrous types, dyes, yarns and cloths have been explained and material is supported by glossary and explanation of processing stages from fibre to finished cloth. Further, the considerations of relevance to the development and preparation of a design collection are outlined and discussed. Various testing procedures, including fibre, yarn and cloth identification methods, and important innovations in textile products and processing are identified and explained as well. Focused mainly on the needs of students specializing in textile or fashion design, at first year undergraduate university level, this book:
Covers all stages from fibre to finished cloth.
Discusses various stages of processing fibres and yarns.
Explains fibrous types, dyes, yarns and cloths supported by relevant glossary.
Presents explanations of both tactile and aesthetic aspects of textiles used in clothing.
Series preface |
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ix | |
Preface |
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xi | |
Acknowledgements |
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xiii | |
Author |
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xv | |
Reference sources for illustrative material |
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xvii | |
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1 | (4) |
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3 | (2) |
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5 | (32) |
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5 | (2) |
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7 | (7) |
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14 | (5) |
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19 | (7) |
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26 | (8) |
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34 | (1) |
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34 | (1) |
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35 | (2) |
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37 | (16) |
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37 | (5) |
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3.2 Filament, staple and other yarn types |
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42 | (3) |
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3.3 Blending, cleaning and sliver formation |
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45 | (1) |
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3.4 Drawing, doubling, roving and spinning |
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46 | (1) |
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3.5 Twisting, winding and fancy yarns |
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47 | (3) |
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50 | (1) |
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50 | (3) |
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53 | (36) |
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53 | (1) |
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4.2 Techniques and variations |
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53 | (5) |
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4.3 Principles and structures |
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58 | (2) |
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60 | (27) |
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4.5 Worldwide distribution of techniques and products |
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87 | (1) |
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88 | (1) |
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88 | (1) |
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Chapter 5 Knitting and other forms of yarn manipulation |
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89 | (16) |
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89 | (1) |
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5.2 Knitting technique variations |
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89 | (1) |
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5.3 Basic knitted structures |
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90 | (3) |
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5.4 Netting, macrame, lace making, sprang, braiding and crochet |
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93 | (1) |
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94 | (9) |
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103 | (1) |
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103 | (2) |
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Chapter 6 Felt, bark and other nonwovens |
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105 | (8) |
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105 | (1) |
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106 | (2) |
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6.3 Techniques and variations |
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108 | (1) |
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6.4 Characteristics and properties |
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109 | (1) |
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109 | (1) |
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110 | (1) |
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111 | (1) |
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111 | (2) |
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Chapter 7 Dyes and their application |
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113 | (18) |
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113 | (1) |
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113 | (2) |
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115 | (2) |
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7.4 Screens and other means |
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117 | (8) |
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125 | (3) |
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128 | (1) |
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129 | (2) |
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Chapter 8 Block-printing and resist-dyeing techniques |
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131 | (42) |
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131 | (1) |
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132 | (4) |
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136 | (24) |
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8.4 Wax-, rice- and paste-resist techniques |
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160 | (7) |
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167 | (3) |
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170 | (1) |
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171 | (2) |
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173 | (8) |
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173 | (1) |
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9.2 Pre-finishing processes |
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174 | (1) |
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9.3 Fibre-specific processes |
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175 | (1) |
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176 | (1) |
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177 | (2) |
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179 | (1) |
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180 | (1) |
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Chapter 10 Motifs and patterns |
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181 | (12) |
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181 | (1) |
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10.2 Motifs, patterns and thematic types |
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182 | (1) |
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182 | (1) |
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183 | (1) |
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10.5 Worldwide distribution |
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184 | (6) |
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190 | (1) |
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191 | (2) |
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Chapter 11 Design development and presentation |
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193 | (6) |
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193 | (1) |
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193 | (1) |
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194 | (2) |
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11.4 Observation, visualisation and representation |
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196 | (1) |
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11.5 Theme boards and the presentation of ideas |
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197 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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198 | (1) |
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Chapter 12 Testing and appraisal |
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199 | (6) |
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199 | (1) |
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12.2 Fibre, yarn and cloth identification |
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200 | (1) |
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12.3 Colour, strength, stretch and abrasion |
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201 | (1) |
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12.4 Flammability and absorption |
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202 | (1) |
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12.5 Suitability for purpose |
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202 | (1) |
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203 | (1) |
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203 | (2) |
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Chapter 13 Further considerations |
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205 | (8) |
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205 | (1) |
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13.2 Research and development |
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205 | (1) |
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13.3 Examples of product innovations |
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206 | (1) |
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13.4 Sustainability and ethical manufacture |
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207 | (1) |
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208 | (2) |
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210 | (1) |
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210 | (3) |
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213 | (2) |
Glossary |
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215 | (27) |
References |
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242 | (1) |
Index |
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243 | |
Professor Michael Hann (BA, M.Phil, PhD, FRSA, FRAS, FTI) holds the Chair of Design Theory at the University of Leeds. He is also Director of ULITA An Archive of International Textiles, an important international archive (and, in the context of this book, a rich source of illustrative material). He has published across a wide range of subject areas, has made numerous key-note addresses at international conferences, and is an acknowledged international authority on the geometry of design. He has held adjunct, visiting or invited professorships at institutions in Belgium, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Korea and China. Recent book publications include: Structure and Form in Design (Berg, 2012), Symbol, Pattern and Symmetry (Bloomsbury, 2013) and Stripes, Grids and Checks (Bloomsbury, 2015). A co-authored treatise entitled Patterns: Design and Composition (Routledge) is anticipated for publication in 2019, as is the single authored work The Grammar of Pattern (Taylor and Francis)