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E-grāmata: Textile Design: Products and Processes

(School of Design, University of Leeds, UK)
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Textile Design: Products and ProcessesPalielināt
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This book includes fundamentals of textile processing technology with explanation of craft techniques, various stages of processing fibres and yarns with useful, readily understandable, line drawings. Fibrous types, dyes, yarns and cloths have been explained and material is supported by glossary and explanation of processing stages from fibre to finished cloth. Further, the considerations of relevance to the development and preparation of a design collection are outlined and discussed. Various testing procedures, including fibre, yarn and cloth identification methods, and important innovations in textile products and processing are identified and explained as well. Focused mainly on the needs of students specializing in textile or fashion design, at first year undergraduate university level, this book:











Covers all stages from fibre to finished cloth.





Discusses various stages of processing fibres and yarns.





Explains fibrous types, dyes, yarns and cloths supported by relevant glossary.





Presents explanations of both tactile and aesthetic aspects of textiles used in clothing.
Series preface ix
Preface xi
Acknowledgements xiii
Author xv
Reference sources for illustrative material xvii
Chapter 1 Introduction
1(4)
References
3(2)
Chapter 2 Textile fibres
5(32)
2.1 Introduction
5(2)
2.2 Plant fibres
7(7)
2.3 Animal fibres
14(5)
2.4 Regenerated fibres
19(7)
2.5 Synthetic fibres
26(8)
2.6 Summary
34(1)
References
34(1)
Website references
35(2)
Chapter 3 Yarns
37(16)
3.1 Introduction
37(5)
3.2 Filament, staple and other yarn types
42(3)
3.3 Blending, cleaning and sliver formation
45(1)
3.4 Drawing, doubling, roving and spinning
46(1)
3.5 Twisting, winding and fancy yarns
47(3)
3.6 Summary
50(1)
References
50(3)
Chapter 4 Weaving
53(36)
4.1 Introduction
53(1)
4.2 Techniques and variations
53(5)
4.3 Principles and structures
58(2)
4.4 Product types
60(27)
4.5 Worldwide distribution of techniques and products
87(1)
4.6 Summary
88(1)
References
88(1)
Chapter 5 Knitting and other forms of yarn manipulation
89(16)
5.1 Introduction
89(1)
5.2 Knitting technique variations
89(1)
5.3 Basic knitted structures
90(3)
5.4 Netting, macrame, lace making, sprang, braiding and crochet
93(1)
5.5 Embroidery
94(9)
5.6 Summary
103(1)
References
103(2)
Chapter 6 Felt, bark and other nonwovens
105(8)
6.1 Introduction
105(1)
6.2 General types
106(2)
6.3 Techniques and variations
108(1)
6.4 Characteristics and properties
109(1)
6.5 Products
109(1)
6.6 Summary
110(1)
References
111(1)
Website references
111(2)
Chapter 7 Dyes and their application
113(18)
7.1 Introduction
113(1)
7.2 Dye types
113(2)
7.3 Dye techniques
115(2)
7.4 Screens and other means
117(8)
7.5 Digital printing
125(3)
7.6 Summary
128(1)
References
129(2)
Chapter 8 Block-printing and resist-dyeing techniques
131(42)
8.1 Introduction
131(1)
8.2 Block printing
132(4)
8.3 Tie-and-dye
136(24)
8.4 Wax-, rice- and paste-resist techniques
160(7)
8.5 Ikat techniques
167(3)
8.6 Summary
170(1)
References
171(2)
Chapter 9 Finishing
173(8)
9.1 Introduction
173(1)
9.2 Pre-finishing processes
174(1)
9.3 Fibre-specific processes
175(1)
9.4 Mechanical processes
176(1)
9.5 Chemical processes
177(2)
9.6 Summary
179(1)
References
180(1)
Chapter 10 Motifs and patterns
181(12)
10.1 Introduction
181(1)
10.2 Motifs, patterns and thematic types
182(1)
10.3 Grids
182(1)
10.4 Means of production
183(1)
10.5 Worldwide distribution
184(6)
10.6 Summary
190(1)
References
191(2)
Chapter 11 Design development and presentation
193(6)
11.1 Introduction
193(1)
11.2 Market research
193(1)
11.3 Sources
194(2)
11.4 Observation, visualisation and representation
196(1)
11.5 Theme boards and the presentation of ideas
197(1)
11.6 Summary
198(1)
References
198(1)
Chapter 12 Testing and appraisal
199(6)
12.1 Introduction
199(1)
12.2 Fibre, yarn and cloth identification
200(1)
12.3 Colour, strength, stretch and abrasion
201(1)
12.4 Flammability and absorption
202(1)
12.5 Suitability for purpose
202(1)
12.6 Summary
203(1)
References
203(2)
Chapter 13 Further considerations
205(8)
13.1 Introduction
205(1)
13.2 Research and development
205(1)
13.3 Examples of product innovations
206(1)
13.4 Sustainability and ethical manufacture
207(1)
13.5 Smart textiles
208(2)
13.6 Summary
210(1)
References
210(3)
Chapter 14 Conclusion
213(2)
Glossary 215(28)
References
242(1)
Index 243
Professor Michael Hann (BA, M.Phil, PhD, FRSA, FRAS, FTI) holds the Chair of Design Theory at the University of Leeds. He is also Director of ULITA An Archive of International Textiles, an important international archive (and, in the context of this book, a rich source of illustrative material). He has published across a wide range of subject areas, has made numerous key-note addresses at international conferences, and is an acknowledged international authority on the geometry of design. He has held adjunct, visiting or invited professorships at institutions in Belgium, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Korea and China. Recent book publications include: Structure and Form in Design (Berg, 2012), Symbol, Pattern and Symmetry (Bloomsbury, 2013) and Stripes, Grids and Checks (Bloomsbury, 2015). A co-authored treatise entitled Patterns: Design and Composition (Routledge) is anticipated for publication in 2019, as is the single authored work The Grammar of Pattern (Taylor and Francis)
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